AWJ

Any of you in the area. I will be there July 16. Lets meet up. It's about time. info

Try Steve Ganz at Carson Toyota. Tell him I sent ya.

1. No problems. Slightly grimy headlights - easily cleaned. Maybe a starter contact, can be easily repaired, some minor interior things - bulbs weak, replaceable, odds and end stuff. Check the door hinges for good closing. 2. Shouldn't see much rust. If you do, don't buy it. Wait for another. 3. Suspension items can be had much cheaper with kyb agx aftermarket shocks around 300$ and springs 200$ for all 4 corners. But then you have labor. If you don't do the work yourself. 4. Price doesn't sound to bad to me. I'd make sure the car was not in an accident and the repaint is quality. Good luck.

Right on. B)

For the high beams - you gots to pull the bumper first. :( For the foggers, remove your splash guards at the front and you'll have access from down low behind the bumper. Hang out and I'll get the picture.

;) My advice - save up. Get good at turning a wrench... have fun.

There is not yet a tried and tested system. There was lots of talk, but no progress. Try here for some ideas. As far as it being worth it; I don't know. If you got the money and you want it - go for it.

Never pulled the dash. That would have to be a nightmare. Are you sure you can't remove just a part of it? Sometimes the manual exaggerates the work involved. Did you run voltage to the motor to make sure that it needs replacement? I would do all the tests first before pulling it.

I have never seen a cloth interior SC in the united states. That doesn't mean there aren't any. But I've seen a lot of SC's.

welcome ;)

It's not the seals that are bad. Although that is what people will tell you. The lights let moisture in, but then it doesn't get out like it should. They can be disassembled and cleaned. The FAQ has a link to a site put together by lex400sc but the link has not been working for me. Copy the link and search it in google. Then hit the cached option and the page will come. Look for headlights and there will be a step by step. Also, there is a tail light thread here that discusses the disassebly procedure. Then you'd want to clean it while they are out. Then reseal them. Many people put them in the oven for like 12 minutes at 250 and get a butter knife and start prying. Same way to reseale. I'm going to do this in August or so. I will put together my own how to and post it in the workshop forum. Or you buy new headlights at 400$ a pop.

The ES and Camry V6's have this reputation. But this is due to owner neglect as SKP has said. I've seen it two times from various owners. Once I had the luxury of speaking with the owner of the es300 that was gelled up. I asked her how often she changes the oil. She said I've never changed the oil. The car had 60,000 miles on it. The car can be saved. But it will need a lot of care and a few prayers. I would flush a lot of cheap oil through it every 500 miles or so for 2,000 miles. Then do compression check, valve lash and clearance, complete tune-up and all that. IF everything looks good - put some 5-30 oil in there and take good care of it. If the checks are bad out, you need to determine if it will be worth keeping the car. I'd probably sell it or trade it.

www.taprecycling.com

PM me and I can email you the basic diagnostic procedure. If you can splice two wires, connect two to three prongs in the in cab diag unit and count how many times the MIL blinks, then you can pull the code yourself.

Tint it. All my cars are BLACK in the windows. It is very cool. I don't worry about the sunroof. Your call.

K9, I'll bet it is the fuel pump ecu. Follow that procedure in the link (it might be in the manual too) and run the pump in high voltage mode. Then try to recreate the stall. I'll bet you don't stall. But the fuel pump relay has also been found to be weak and cause this problem by others as well. Consult your manual. You'll find it. Good luck.

You have two options. 288$ is really not a bad price. 1. So you could make sure they do a good job on the install and be very careful with the break in on the clutch and maybe you won't have any problems. The two cars I had before with aftermarket clutches were installed before I got the car, so there could be other factors involved, like who installed it or how they were broke in. Or 2. try to return the act clutch and find another brand - I've heard good things about centerforce brand clutches but I have no first hand experience. If you need a new clutch, then the act piece might be alright. That is the trouble with this hobby. It costs money to learn and sometimes we have to do it twice.

Sorry man, this one got past me. I had a clutchmasters clutch in the last car and it chattered and squealed like a pig. It didn't do it very often, but when it did it was kind of embarassing. It could have been a shotty install job but I've heard similar complaints in the past. ACT clutches suck too. I had one in a honda a while back it squealed like a stuck pig. Anyways, performance clutches are hard to find that are really good. I wish I knew the brand of the clutch in my car now. That think is like 60 pounds to push down. But you forget about that real quick. The most solid clutch I've ever driven on. Centerforce makes a set-up that some guys like. Let me check up on it.

That's kind of funny because I'm planning to build an scca/solo car next year and I'm seriously considering a 240. Do yourself a favor. NEVER use the words Lexus and crappy in the same sentence please. Anyways, you can find black on tan from '92 up. Unless the car is thrashed - don't do the maaco paint job. That's not cool man. I had a '93 with a shimmering stock paint job, and the current one shines like a diamond as well. To get a quality leather conversion, it is going to cost you. But there are some leather seat covers made by leather seats.com and options that may save a little here or there and still be quality. Don't disgrace the lex.

Lexus/Toyota is one of the finest manufacturers out there. The 3rd gen SC series are some of the best cars ever made. I'm a little biased. But I can't help it. I was in love with them when I first saw them. I never dreamed I would be driving one. I'm sure I'll have more in the future. When taken care of, they are very reliable. The 300 series offers more options for aftermarket power. The 400 has more on top in stock form. Both are excellent automobiles. I wish Lexus could produce a line similar to the 3rd gen SC's in the future. The IS is ok, I like the GS as well, but we need a better SC for the future.

It is not so hard to find a 5 speed. It is hard to find a 5 speed that is black on black. But I did. 1995 was the first year for black interior. 1992 to 1997 was the model years that had a 5 speed w58 available. About 5% of the total produced for each model year were 5 speed. I'd sell mine for the right price. But you'd have to have a lot of money. If you are dead set on black on black I'll take 35,000$ with all the mods. Otherwise, look on autotrader and every other car sales publication. Be patient and be willing to travel. I traveled rather far for mine. Or you could find a nice 5 speed in good condition and have the interior done custom in black. My first 5 speed was a great car with garnet pearl on tan. Very beautiful. Then there is always royal sapphire pearl too. I guess I'm saying you shouldn't limit yourself to black. You can find black interiors on models 1995 and up. In fact I know where there is a very heavily modified 95 silver spruce on black 6speed, toyomoto done car listing at 36,000$ because the owner really needs to get rid of it. It is done up to the T, totally built - not much left to do to the car. Contact me if you are interested. Good luck.

Welcome. Nice find! I'll try to answer some of your questions more later. Very busy now. See my sig for my modifications. Later

Yea - troubleshoot your alternator. Have the guys at the local parts store do there test. They usually do them for free and can tell you what is up with the alternator. That is easier and best to rule out as the problem first.

Try this - I must credit London Bill, this is his original site. The link may not take you directly. So look to the left and click on electrical - then up top, fuel pump ecu. There is an explanation there. Keep in mind these are the RHD backwards fellas - so the ecu is on the drive side rear passenger compartment for us. But the diag procedure and high voltage override should be the same. I have not tried it because it has not acted up on me yet but others have. So without further a do; I present the link Enjoy.

Extremely clean - nice