AWJ

I'd take the '97 in an instant.

Start a new thread please. Feel free to use our galleries to upload your photos. Lookin good.

Hey Johnfw - welcome to the club. You will probably have to remove the splash gaurd unerneath the car. Look for a couple of bolts. Usually 10mm. Take the covers off or get them loose enough to get at the backside of the front bumper about where those foglights are. Might need a flashlight. Then you should be able to have access to your lights from the backside like that.

Send Emerald at www.importtoys.com an e-mail. Tell her I sent ya.

I'm not feeling the Kaminari thing. I like the sooner, wald, AC, jic, vertex, and lately the do-luck kit has been having an impression. Although the ab-flug with the wide mouth is looking sweet. I like the adjustable damper in the front bumper all big and ready to shovel into a front mount. That veilside get up is smooth too.

Yea, I never expect to win anything when I go. I just have fun looking at women, making contacts, and knowing my car will swallow 99% of the vehicles in the "show". The winners are always the gaudy apc'd, extra plastic, mad tyte painted interior fartsters on Naws n-e-ways. But it is always fun!

July 21 is the deadline!

Wednesday Folks! July 21 is the last day for registration for the Rally

That worked? Do you have a before and after pic? I'll give that a shot.

K&N is fine I guess. The 1995 bumper should work. Good luck.

I don't know about the Supra issue. Only way to find out is to try it. I bought one of the ones off e-bay. I don't see why a cut down rewelded shifter for 70$ is worse than a machined shorter shifter for 300$. They both do the same thing I think.

Nieltyme, I notice you are in Michigan. You should consider coming on the Lollipop Rally with us. Also, consider durability and quality. That is all that matters. Name brands are usually a better bet. The Rally - click here

I helped you out a little there Sportcoupe. Your images are now in our SC gallery as well if that is ok with you. If not, we can remove them. Looks good. B)

It looks nice. ;) I agree, the BFI is the best change for the money.

They can be opened and cleaned. Check the faq. I will update it more next week when I get some more time.

Not much. If anything. They look good though. :D

To generate 500 hp on an IS300... here is what I would do. Locate a turbo manifold with a T4 flange. You can find them used or new. Sound Performance, Toyomoto, Performance Factory, maybe SRT (don't know if they sell just parts) etc. - new or used. 1,000 to 2,000$ External wastegate - HKS or Tial 50 to 60mm 400$ - 800$ SP63 turbo .8 or so exhaust a/r .7 or so compressor a/r new maximum 2000$ Custom piping - with 2 auxillary injector bungs (optional) - 500$ or so Custom 3" exhaust - 300$ Oil and tranny cooler - 300$ TT or walbro 255l high pressure fuel pump - 100 to 200$ If auxillary injectors are not used then 6 upgraded injectors - 440 to 720 depending - 300$ May need to modify fuel rail - 100$ Injector controller or fuel management 500 - 1500$ It can be done without lowering compression, but most people do with a lower compression gasket. up to 500$ plus install$ Budget another 2000$ for miscellaneous odds and ends like earl's fittings, bungs, brakets, clips, clamps, retainers, spark plugs, gaskets, and whatever else. Then you have to pay someone to install it or hope you know what you are doing. Plan on at least 70$ and hour depending on location. Easily 10G's but money can be saved if parts are sourced wisely.

I have had Greddy products in the past. They are not bad. Never had Blitz, but many people have and don't complain. They both look equally impressive. You could just buy some Apexi style cans and have an exhaust shop run some pipe from the cats to your cans and hang them for you. A lot cheaper than buying the cat back deals - and it is basically the same thing without a brand name.

Lextreme is right. About exhaust. Backpressure is always bad. Backpressure causes reversion wich translates directly into poor efficiency, detonation, and a failure. No system is without backpressure but an adequately designed system will produce as much vacuum as possible to get to a conditon referred to as scavenging. Click here please

I like it.

The exhaust system has been opened up in the past by others. In addition to Peter Scott's page, please look at the Lextreme website. If you only want 40 hp then get a custom exhaust along the lines they mention - you discuss a true cold air type set-up for intake in your other thread wich may or may not help. I don't believe they do much after having used them in the past in various cars. It has been proven that the accord piping defeats the engineered design of the oem piping losing low end torque for a slight gain in top end hp. With a modified computer and torque converter - this may improve performance a little. For the money spent on that stuff - I'd rather just put it in a turbo or liquid plasma tv. There is no such thing as free power. A 50 shot will do the trick for the cheapest price. Toyota motors (at least the 1uz and 2jz) are extremely well designed pieces. Porting or upsized throttle bodies are not going to do much if anything. The 1uz throttle body is huge already in it's oem form. Honestly - boosting is the way to go for the money. They have been stroked in the past with Tundra cranks and custom rods and all that jazz. Still at the cost of doing that - the gains are below that of boost. For your questions on the exhaust, I don't see why removing the cats will lose low end. Backpressure is bad. See Lextreme's page. The cams are decent - but I don't know the duration. Perhaps some more timing can be added - I beleive that is what the SRT ecu's and stuff will do. I would suggest following up on the info on that page there. Starting simply with the exhaust, torque converter and bfi. Then either consider n2o or a turbo system. But you will have to pay to play. Good luck - please share with the forum any proven findings. I think dyno charts are the best way to document improvements.

You will need pads and shims. Shims may be reused if they are in decent shape. The calipers are very simple. Undo one bolt and the cap flips up to expose the pads. The pads need to be clear of the rotor in order to get the assembly to rotate up. A very easy job if pads are the only thing to change. If I get a chance - I will get the images up. A few people have requested a couple of items. I'll get them up as soon as I get some more free time. Hang in there, good luck. Welcome to the club.

Then there's redline, royal purple, etc., etc., etc. Bottom line...... oil is oil. Get the right weight - find one you like and change it periodically. Dino oil vs. synthetic - synthetic may just be better. Is dino oil going to hurt the car? Nope.

The answer is......... Not many. Wish I could give you a better answer. If you look long enough, you just might find one.

If you are replacing the springs to lower the car, you may as well replace the shocks too. Otherwise, you will pay double for the same labor when your shocks go bad. KYB AGX are a good brand to use with lowering springs.