AWJ

The only reason non oem wires would be run is on an amplified ignition system where shielding and large core wires would become necessary to avoid emi and burning up. Unless someone would want to have some nice colors or thick wires under the hood for appearance. My car runs oem ignition at a max 20 pounds. Spark plug wires will have nothing to do with performance and everything to do with durability. But to answer the question - any kit for a 93 to 96 supra non turbo should work. Or get the cut your own kits.

There is nothing at this point in time. But there is hope.

I had the fans on the '93. Dual flex-a-lite 210 pullers. I was not impressed with them. They do clear up space under the hood, look good, and work if installed correctly. But the car did overheat a couple of times in traffic on a real hot day. Some have never had problems. Others have had a lot of problems. The fans will not give more horsepower. They just free up some wasted energy. Honestly, I don't think there will be a difference. Prove me wrong with a dyno chart.

The pedal in ours squeaks as well, like a gummy hinge. Post up the pics if you get some. Lithium grease is the best way to get the ya ya's out. WD-40 dries out too quick and tends to contirbute to rusting if the applied area is not well cared for. The old SC had a throw out bearing going in it and that would result in a pig squeal sound on engagement as well as chatter. Never did fix it though.

As far as the starter thing goes - the hammer will work on the solenoid or the armature. A dead spot will get offset enough by the hit to free the armature up or bring the core of the solenoid to contact depending on the location of the calculated blow. Another method is jumping the poles across the starter solenoid. But it is key to make sure the car is not in gear and to wear gloves or you'll get a decent kick of juice through your body if you are not careful.

Okay, so you got compliments on your kit... So does that mean it's a good quality kit?? NO!! And that's the reason why I don't recommend Erebuni kits.. Does that mean its not a good quality kit? NO! OneHotLexus - don't sweat it. I've heard nothing wrong about Erebruni. There is always speculation about thickness and fitment. Bottom line is that the individual consumer is the one whom must deal with the product and ensure it is what is claimed while making provisions for the resolution of any issues that may arise. I like the lip in the third picture. I considered purchasing the set-up. Having owned kitted cars in the past - I've found that after time, any low clearance item is going to get smacked. That is what deters me from installing anything like that. Especially for my application. They do look good. A lot of this internet stuff is hearsay and not first hand. If there is proof of quality issues other than "my friend bought it and it was really floppy and he couldn't hold a drill strait" - well ... you know. Kind of like how people say the f-max turbo kit is garbage but everyone who actually owns one that was installed well, likes them. Regardless, Opinions are free to be shared but lets try to keep things in perspective please. Bubbles - I'm in on the glass hood. I'll check out that link as well. We may have to be willing to take a hit though. It is possible I can work something out to ship to the facility on a freight rate - but don't get your hopes up. I have been looking for nearly 6 months now. I have been bugging Emerald some time now to get something going. It will have to be a wait and see thing. But they are very buisy now - and like you said - demand is not sufficient for supply. Also, in the past - deals were attempted and buyers disappeared.

For that price to only have timing and fuel - that leaves a lot of questions. There is no point to raising the rev limit without extensive head work at least. Regardless, I have not heard of that ecu being used (but that doesn't mean much - I'm sure someone has it somewhere). But for that money there are a whole lot more comprehensive systems available that will handle things like boost, 3d maps, real time monitoring of critical systems and etc. Systems like motec, aem, felpro/speedpro, even the stripped down simple digital systems (SDS) for those who don't want to use a laptop.

That is pretty cool. B) That is DIN's car. There are a couple of others too. I'm geared more to wieght savings and such so that set-up is not on my list. Although it may get on it in the future if the ride really is that good to the point that it holds course on the track.

Those haynes and the like manuals as well as the cd's really bite the big one. They are virtually useless. The only manual worth buying are the factory service manuals - they are worth their weight in gold. I equate it to buying books for college. They weren't cheap either. Although there are always alternatives like finding them on e-bay or locating a quality reprint ;) .

Hey, you're in Lexington? I'm in Maysville, KY. I'm going to be doing some work on the car this weekend. Let me know if you need any help. Good luck.

Looks like the front tranny seal. 1. Hard to say for sure. Replace any o-rings n gaskets n stuff. Mounts are case by case. I doubt a mount would need replacement but it is not impossible I guess. They can usually be refurbished if they are not broken or rusted through. 2. No. Sorry. Don't know any. 3. No part #'s. Call Napa or the dealership for that info.

The dealership. And me. But mine are not ready yet. I'll pm when they are.

Sounds like a bad chassis ground again. Start with your battery. Have it tested. Then test the alternator. Make sure all connections are clean. Then check all fuses. I can assist with the location of schematics if the faulty cause is located.

So the venue has changed to Sunday. Just got back. Wouldn't you know - I forgot to bring the digital camera. Guess I'll have to go back next sunday. Props to the Cincy Scene. I saw some pretty amazing shtuff.

Remove the driveshaft.

It's a totally custom chop top. $$$$$$$$

I don't but that doesn't mean it is not out there. I know of at least one that has been done.

Damn. It took a google search to come back to this thread. Ironically, I am now actively persuing the Halo's. Anyways, yes those are positive offsets. Those offsets you've asked about should work just fine. The list above is very general and while a 30mm offset probably does really suck, 35 may not be quite so bad. I'd expect 37 to be fine. I don't have the experience to say definitely. So go with 43 all around to be safe or pull the 37 in front and if it doesn't do what you want, you can pick up a spacer set. Or sell the wheels. Gotta love google. ;) I was looking for NZO distributors and came upon this link. Craziness.

SK is right. What kind of noises are you hearing. The SC exhausts are notorious for clicking and pinging after shut off while the exhaust cools down. It is just the heat shields expanding and contracting. It's normal. My 93 did it all the time, but the 95 doesn't mainly because the exhaust is a one off custom and there are no shields. ;)

The Experience Nigthlife - 8pm Saturday August 16, 2003 @ Club Silk Car Show 10AM @ Club 21 in Aurora. 2121 East New York St. , Aurora, IL. 60504 630-585-6900 I've got my celly.

The only way to prove it is with a chassis dynomometer. But if it is done correctly, I'd expect some type of improvement.

1. Sorry, I have no idea. 2. No you're not. Check out the faq. ;) Welcome.

The SC300 comes with the 2jz-ge. So does the 93-98 Supra NA. The TT supra has a 2jz-gte. So if you want a 2jz, then buy a SC300. If you want the turbos, then save your money. Front clips are high. So are the motors. I've seen them at Supraforums in the classified sections. You can source short and long blocks from the Toyota dealerships. You can source jdm versions over seas. E-bay, and all the other places. I'd try to find one someone is selling in a forum though. Phil Auldridge has a manual for the job. Check in the FAQ. There are also several links on this information there.

You may want to try the car audio forum. I think most people just leave the antenna inactive. You can still use the antenna as a reception piece but getting it to come up and down is a little more tricky. If you just want the antenna to come up for when the car or radio is turned on then use the power lead for the head unit or another 12v source off an always on accessory. To go up and down for radio use will require more talent.

I'm a little jealous.