AWJ

Yes. The bushings are inside of the control arm. It is usually unecessary to replace the arm itself. Unless it is fubared. I have a picture somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.

Looks very nice! Thanks for the info. B)

LOL. Two auxillary 550cc injectors. The "conservative" set-up on this car does not require the use of both - so only one is running now. 6 Stock fuel injectors running of a debatably rising rate stock fpr or fuel pulse damper as Toyota calls it. It is rumored that the stock piece does increase fuel somewhat under boost. I must correct myself though, the controller is the Haltech F5 but there are many out there to choose from. I have only hit 20 psi once on a reckless bout - but saw no trouble from it. On a T04e at 10 psi - it is safe to say the car will turn out 350 or so horsies at the wheel. The rest depends on tuning and fuel delivery. I have not seen any indication of detonation aside from the 20 psi pull when romping through first gear, there was a little rumble and hint of pulled timing at 4 to 6k rpm. No other signs of problem though. The car is happy all day long at 15psi. Good luck. Let us know if there are any other questions. Have you picked out a set-up yet?

A T66 may be a little too big. The biggest turbo on that motor I know of on stock fuel is a T60-1. It is not trimmed much different than a T04e-60. That turbo comes standard with many kits. You can spec it however you want though. I would try a T04 with a .6 to .7 or so exhaust a/r and similar compressor side. The housings can be changed. For fuel, you can run an additional injector controller - it must be able to sense boost at least. I run the Haltec H5. You need a high pressure, higher flow fuel pump like the TT. I'm not a fan of rising ratio mechanical FMU's but they can be used too. The stock ecu can not really be modified other than splicing an O^2 sensor to get one. To pass emissions, leave your egr,pcv, and related systems intact. Put your cats or some hi flow cats on v bands and get a test pipe to swap out easy. Turn the boost and cut in way down during testing and make sure the car is nice and hot. Also, run only the best fuel you can find. I've hit 20 psi before on 10:1 compression wich is stock for the GE. The GTE is 8.5:1. There is a few built GE's running 30+ psi. But your motor won't want to go that high. 10 to 15 psi is safe with the right tuning and fuel.

I will have a set of wheels available. I have not decided which wheels or what condition yet. It will be approximately 3 weeks before I know. I may have to do it auction style though because there are several contacts of mine that are interested in them and then there are new individuals contacting me left and right as well. At this point - no wheels are for sale. Check the for sale section in 3 weeks or ask me via pm then. Thanks for your interest. *NO TRADES* Stockers are of absolutely no use to me. They won't fit my car any more. Sorry.

Consult this thread for more info on hoods/bonnets I'm still trying a few things but it is not looking good. As I figured. More info next week.

I don't know if it is absolutely required. Maybe you can get away without it. Only way to know is to try. It won't hurt I'd imagine to hold off on the kit and just making the spare fit with creativity. You can always buy the kit later eh?

What failed? The Climate Contol display/unit or the AC compressor/AC system itself?

They are not interchangeable because the heads are completely different. The ports, bolt locations, etc. etc.

I noticed that as well. It also does not allow "dynamic linking" of the image into our forum. This should be in thread site suggestions/problems forum though - So Imma finna move it. Thanks for the comment though. ;) I'm sure it will be resolved shortly. B)

I believe that is the Shot Aero kit. I have no idea where to find it.

The difference in braking is drastic. I just got back from the test. I've still got the stock sc brake set-up beyond the front brakes, ss lines, and rear rotors. The ride is great. Still have the stock suspension though. I can't decide if I like the way it sits now (pretty cool looking) or lower. I'll let you know next time me and the old lady are out to Lexington Green-Fayette Mall.

After you get the starter out, the lid on the solenoid comes right out. Remove the plunger. The brass contacts coming off the two poles are directly below. Kind of half moon shaped little L brackets. These are worn too low from use. Put new ones in and you're golden. This is a fairly common occurance. Starts with a click every once in a while, then harder starts and soon - no start. I don't know the part # - when I ordered them, they were the wrong ones, I took it to a starter repair shop and they knew exactly what I needed and gave me a warranty. 15$ starter fix. I still can't believe it.

It is probably your starter solenoid. I had to do mine once. Got it rebuilt real cheap. Car never missed a lick after that.

They are NZO Halo. Staggered 8.5f 9.5r. The fronts clear the calipers by about 5mm. I will paint the calipers black eventually but this was kind of a rush job. LOL though... the dish sets it all off. The side Those ADR's look killer as well with that lip. Some people hiss at adr's but I've owned a set in the past and they held up great. I have a soft spot for Enkei wheels though.

You thought wrong. My panels are removed but they should be replaced. Thing is, they are so torn up, I want new ones. There probably is a way to get at the drain plug - but I don't know it. I don't think the quick change guys remove the panel. They may just loosen 1 side and bend it out of the way. Not sure though. Have to reference the manuals.

Yes they will. The SC dust cover will have to be cut off or removed though. The benefit is not as great as the front but it is worth it for the right price and look. Also, you may want to consider the master cylinder and proportioning valve if you want to go all the way. The SC stuff is perfectly capable but - you know ...

Of course! Welcome to the Club! I have never used chip filler either. I would also recommend a new windshield replacement. If that is out of the budget, the filler would be a sufficient temporary fix - I suppose. No first hand experience though. Good luck - great car!

That is shifty as all get out. I feel sorry for anyone who falls for that crap.

Yea - I saw a guy using one last year and that set off a bulb for me. I have one an use it. I love it. They sure do charge for those things though.

Don't short out anything man - those keyboards can get pricy. ;) Thanks - B) I busted a few knuckles and still have dirt under my nails.

Found the digital - delicious eh?

Very hott! That is super sweet. When will they put this into production? It MUST be done.

Sounds like a lot of fun!

Mark your calendars. We are coming full force. See you at Club 21 or in between. B)