AWJ

Sounds like you know your options. I can't recommend any one over the other as I have not done this. There is probably merit to each one. I know the Katzkin thing seems to have been well received by others. Enjoy the car and good luck.

Myabe.

1991 eh? There I go nit pickin'. The dealer charges about 400$ or so for one. Try www.taprecycling.com, ebay, maybe our buy sell forum periodically. Good luck.

Now that I think about it - I did leave the ignition in the on position so that the abs pump did have power while bleeding. I don't know if it is necessary, but I did it out of precaution. Also, while I understand leaving the cap on - taking it off allows the level in the rez to fluctuate in the event that air might try to go out that way. Especially if you are going to suck the top side empty. I know you guys mention just cracking it loose, but any pressure will pop it right off along with any fluid that wants out. I ran so much fluid through the car during the caliper swap that all the original fluid was drained out through the lower lines anyways. I replaced with dot 4 as the rez level dropped priodically - never letting the level go lower than the bottom of the rez - and stainless steel lines. Just food for thought. There is always more than one way to skin a cat and if a problem is noticed after one method, you can always go back and hit it again. Good luck.

I suppose it could if there is something wrong with it.

It is possible that new struts would be needed to hold the trunk open on its own. That price is a crock though. What is that the dealership rate? Replacement cross ref struts can be found on line for 25$ + shipping and installed by the do it yourselfer easily for free.

All cars do that to some degree and the wider the tire the more it does it. But check your alignment. Have the wheels balanced again, make sure the rotors are true (if it does it under braking). New bushings never hurt though if you are up for the job.

No point to supercharging a turbo powerplant. IMO. I've never seen a supercharger for it. But there might be one. Google it.

This is of course key - to build up adequate pressure - but with the cap off - you could send it out the top. So be careful for that. Also - do not let the fluid get to low in the rez - that will just suck a bunch more air in. And never pump the brakes with the caliper off the rotor (duh) like I did. Pop the piston strait out of there - d'oh!

I think Lextreme just might be able to help you. The lcd panel might be the same or cross reference part. You will need to verify that with him though. Lextreme, if you get a chance - drop Matt or Steve a message. I think they have been trying to get a hold of you. If you are interested in space on our forums - to continue, you should probably contact one of them. Thanks for your assistance.

Welcome friend! Very easy job. I take it you've done this before. I use the helper method. Once you have the wheel off, it is very clear. The back side of the caliper has the bleeder on it. Take the fluid reservoir cap off - open bleeder - down on brake - close bleeder- up on brake... repeat. Enjoy.

Owners manual should state the major service intervals to be 80k and 160k. Free owner manuals can be obtained through the lexus corporate website if needed. That is your belts and water pump. I personally recommend replacing fluids and ignition items every year as well as checking the chasis components. Then your standard 3k mile oil service and air filter. Take good care of your ride and it will take good care of you. Enjoy your great cars. As far as purchasing a high mileage 4.0, the common failures are at the power steering pump and subsequently, the alternator. If she starts hard, the starter solenoid could be suspect as well. Then there are you general rules for buying any car. Electrical items/operation, paint matching, dents, seals - etc. etc.

Mike!!! Ouch dog. Hey what are timing belt bearings? You need to find a different mechanic.

How do you like dem apples? Hey - Bruce - fugettaboutit ;) Any time.

1. The best price - haggle and get good at it. I still haven't mastered this. I've found better deals with personal loans lately. But everyone is different. You'll have to figure out what works for you. 2. No. I always do that. Or I fly out and drive it home. Or I drive out and drive it home. I've actually only shipped once - but I'll do it again. Not a bad experience. 3. Depends. 200 to 500+$ 4. I wouldn't really worry about mileage. Although something to always keep in mind is that things with more bells and whistles (and this car has lots) offer more opportunity with problems. But as we engineers always say - "If it isn't broke, it doesn't have enough options!" Enjoy.

Pull the panel and use a voltmeter while trying to work the window. If you have voltage, then it's the motor. If you don't, it could be the switch. If you don't know how to pull the panel, check the general gallery - I posted a generic door tear down in there somewhere. The factory service manuals are invaluable for this. There is a sticky up there with info on obtaining them. Good luck.

I was going way too fast for conditions. It was a very minimal curve - I mean tiny. I happened to be shifting at the same time as the car was coming over a slight hump around a slight bend. I got on it too hard from 3-4 and caught air. Murder she wrote from there. "I looked at my ride and I said 'oh brother' I'll throw it in the gutter and go buy another."

I would hope it does not do it in P ;) . Just razzin ya. Check to see if some of your underpinning is come loose. If you see nothing, have the shop check it out. Sorry to hear about that. I'd make sure that little girl learns a lesson or two. Daddy can't bail her out all the time. Did you get a police report? I would honestly press to get the insurance involved. It's harsh but she needs to learn the hard way obviously. There is something to be said for that. Good luck to you.

Run the vin#. Look at the car. If it is clean and drives well - I'd be hard pressed to not by it actually. I'd also plan on replacing a lot of things (like bushings and suspension) if I did get it. Definitely a project car. I wouldn't rely on it for much. But it could be a nice surprise if it holds up.

I just lost everything I wrote - that just chaps my hide.... (don't hit esc a bunch of times - don't ask either ) I can pull them tight and broad. It is usually predictable. But sometimes things go wrong.... that's how I lost the '93. The time in the snow was a quick and tight 180* that stopped just beyond the mark - (not that I was trying to hit a mark). I couldn't help it at all - it was the day after we bought it and we were taking it home. Just happened to snow that night while we were asleep. That is the cliff notes version because I don't feel like retyping everything. <_<

All I know is the only time I've ever driven an SC in snow - it spun completely around on me faster than greased lightning. Not much I could do either way. I have no problem slinging the booty of the bueaty wherever I want too. A little too much enthusiasm will put the car out of control. I lost the same car driving it too enthusiastically.

Move the passenger seat as far back as it will go. Remove the thing plastic trim strip that covers the seam of the carpet to the door sill. Grab firm and pull up. It will come out. It is rather flexible. Now you have to peel the carpet back. The carpet is clipped to the door sil with plastic clips and metal clips. It will come rite up. Keep those clips, you will need them to reassemble. There are two plugs I think in the front most part of the passenger foot well. Remove those and pull the carpet down and back. After the carpet is sufficiently out of the way, you wil see a black shroud on the incline of the passenger footwell. I think it was a 10mm socket to get the two bolts along the bottom out. The cover then lifts off. And there is your ecu. Reverse the process for assembly.

I'm not all up to speed because I prefer the toyota inline motors - but, the 1uz is the 4.0, the 2uz is the 4.3 and the 3uz is the 4.7. As far as new needles - that can be a tough one. There are a couple guys around that will do a retrofit to a better LED output type. They have you send the cluster out. New needles might be available from the dealer. Every once in a while I'll see something on e-bay but don't know how good they are.

Rabidus has described an open differential.

The wheels in that picture are 17" Supra TT OEM wheels. They clear the supra tt front brakes I have on the car and are a staggered set-up. Meaning they are 8.5" wide up front and 9" wide in back. There is no rotating those wheels. But the ride is great and handling is good too.