AWJ

Gentlemen, I put the fuel pump ecu information and link in this thread here . Hope this helps. It seems a few of us are having this issue lately. This may or may not be the problem. Just some handy troubleshooting info. Based on what you guys are saying and what I've read about in the past - this is your huckleberry.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/soarertt/electrical.htm These are RHD cars so - the fuel pump ecu will be on the driver side. Check the link or read further below. All props to London Bill and the TIF group for this information.

SK - that is really inappropriate. I'm very disappointed in that statement. mktbully is correct in his statements. Regardless of what the real problem is here. I doubt anyone can fix any problem with any thing over the internet. Unless they can hook up to the problem via the internet. This is an advice forum. You can agree, you can disagree, but show respect - what is stupid about anything that was said here?

Not sure what you are getting at with color code. You mean wire color? Never played with O^2 sensors yet. You will need a special service tool to get them out/in correctly I think. JPI might be able to help you out. Otherwise, get on the horn and start calling exhaust shops to see if they can give you a cross reference part. I'm sure the delco one would work as long as it is a direct cross ref part. You'll need a professional's input (probably more than one) or try it and if it works, you're good. If not - back to the parts bin.

fuel pump ecu

I figured as much. Just giving a hard time I guess. Connecticut eh? How about Hartford? Mystic? Where is Greenwich? Give us an address. If I can make a trip out of it, we'll come. (Provided my car is done as well)... Good luck arranging things, let me know if I may assist. I'll keep my eyes open for more details.

The torque converter is just a fine place to start. Enjoy.

At +35 the wheels may look flush but they might stick out enought to hit the top of the quarter in certain conditions. Depends on the wheel design as well. The +35 will affect tracking of the vehicle and handling. I'd recommend +40 to +50. IT would be really nice if vendors would let us test fit the wheels first. My halo's are +38 I believe. Ride is fine in my opinion. But they rub on dips and sharp turns. I will probably modify the rear panels. I might sell the wheels. Not sure yet.

I still say Tuner Bash... Panama City Beach... Lexus Owner's Club official tent... rally to the spot... But that takes work and time and it's probably too late to make something like that happen so I'd be up for a ride to Boston, D.C., or the Tri-State. What three states are you refering to? For me, thats, indiana - ohio - kentucky. As long as it's warm. We can do a ride.

There is a fuel pump ecu issue that may be the culprit in your case. There is a way to make it run in high volt mode and if your car does not stall again, that is most likely the problem. I'll see if I can find the info but it is easily found at planetsoarer I think.

That's what I'm sayin'. Yes. Supra stuff will work. But you can't mix and match. It's all supra parts in shocks and springs or all SC.

I agree as well. It seems to be the going trend that people want stuff for nothing and complain about everything even when things are very well off. Really bugs me but - that's the way it is. On the tein/jic discussion, I drove a car with tein NA system and it rode like a meat cart. This was a GS300 turbo and it let you know if there was a pebble under the tire. Good for track maybe. Not daily driver. I have heard the tein pieces tend to rust over time as well. That can be dealt with though. So spec you're coilover out correctly or you will be sorry. As far as JIC goes, I believe another poster said JIC ships fast. That is the opposite of other accounts. I'm sure if parts are in stock anywhere, they get out fast. But JIC goes on back oreder just like anything else. Try locating their catback exhaust for the SC and getting it in under 3 months. On the SF series coilovers, I saw an account where the mount to the lower member broke at the weld. I have also seen accounts where their strut brace broke at the weld as well. Bottom line - aftermarket parts are a risk. Don't complain when they fail and the manufacturer won't give the money back. It may or may not be right or wrong - but that is business. As far as contract law is concerned, the deal is done. Unless there is expressed written warranty. Then there is a leg to stand on. Bottom line, get a warranty in writing if possible. Otherwise, buyer beware. This is the main issue holding me back from purchasing either brand. I will wait to see some more options. Is there a performance oriented air ride system available on the market - or are they all for spark it or park it low rider slam mobiles?

It's possible the solenoid just crapped out during one of the crank sessions. Are you sure the battery still has any juice? Also possible the starter itself could be toasted. I doubt it though.

I would take a toyota inline 6 over any other option in motor.

Great info guys.

How's about a complete detail post thread in the workshop tutorial? I think that would be sweet. Good luck.

Looks good. B)

It is really not a problem to scroll through what is already read. Not a big deal on space concerns either except for users with small screens. It is not an unreasonable request by any means though. I'll bump this over to general discussions and we can comment as necessary. No skin off my teeth.

Looks good. Enjoy. B)

What is the real thing? That's a matter of personal preference. We all have our idea of the perfect set-up. We could probably actively discuss it all day long. Nothing wrong with the 1jz. Like Masubi said - electrical conundrum. But doable. Same deal with gte head and turbos, need the computer too. That's why I say, slap a turbo on your current set up and drop both those motor swaps off the line. A little more $ will have those motor swaps running faster but then again, a little more clam on the ge will have it running again faster. There's more than one way to skin a cat, probably two good ways, 3 okay ways, and gagillion ways to get it fubared.

I hear ya Calvin. It all depends on the deal. I have come across potentially well built motors for good prices recently. Very tempting to grab one. Just depends on the deal and where you're looking. Overall, JDM stuff typically requires a little more fabrication and that translates to man hours = $$$$. Then the parts issues can be a factor, though easy to solve with enough cash. Either way. It ain't cheap. Regardless, the jdm turbos have ceramic compressor wheels. They spool a little quicker but shatter and surge real easy too. They are limited in many places. A usdm motor is the better choice IMO in terms of cost and potential.

It will be a month or so before the hood is installed. No pins necessary.

JDM will not be cheaper - make no mistake. A 1jz will bolt in. You may have an oil pan clearance issue due to left hand vs. right hand drive. So a USDM oil pan will be needed or the cross member can be modified/swapped out. A new wiring harness will be needed as well at a minimum. Expect it to get very expensive very fast.

I agree. It may be the torque converter. I'd start with a complete tranny flush and see how it does after that.

That is a vertex t&e or autocouture (can't quite tell) knockoff. V-speed, I never heard of. Chances are, you will be very disappointed with this kit unless you know someone else that has this installed. Any after market body panel will need modification of some sort to fit. All things equal, the parts for any SC will fit your Soarer. Chances are, with the knock off pieces from things like these, rigidity will be weak and finish may not be ideal. It's hard to say definitely though. If you want it, make sure you have some sort of satisfaction guarantee in terms of getting money back if the kit comes damaged or is not up to your expectations. Welcome to USLOC.