AWJ

I think that is a fair price. This time last year a 1995 5 speed with 65,000 booked at 16,000$ at our bank.

Had a chance to whip mine out Friday when the weather was a little decent. I love the power slide. Not sure what the neighbors think, but I can guess. Nuff said.

Red Line water wetter. Highly praised. I'll give it a shot some day.

ok heres the story for the rear carrier bushing replacement. its really simple actually. tools needed: breaker bar torque wrench 19mm box socket 33mm punch or more commonly available a sawzaw 2jaw puller (not needed if using a saw) some grease jack up the car of course, and take wheel off. take off the 2, 19mm nuts off (there torqued to 163ft lbs so be ready) pop the two bolts out and off comes the trailing arm. then use the 2jaw puller and the 33mm punch to push out the old bushing sleve. if a punch is unavailable use a sawzaw to cut a slit in to the bushings outer case. then grease the new bushing and push them in and but the trailing arm back on and tourqe the nut to 163ft lbs, but because of the lack of clearence torque the bolt, and double check the nut with a box wrench. and thats it. slap the tire back on and feel the difference Pictures and text by JZZ30. Arranged by AWJ. Enjoy.

Bro, not sure if you are calling someone out here or what. The thread you link to was closed due to an unsafe practice being referred to. Cutting springs is not only the incorrect way to lower a vehicle, it compromises the safety of the driver and those who share the road. We do not condone, nor promote such things. It makes no matter what kind of car the discussion pertains. No one is trying to be condescending to anyone here. We maintain a very civil atmosphere here. I really don't think anyone is trying to belittle anyone else. Just lookin' out. Some of us do it differently than others. The end is the same. Deal on the last thing. ;)

114.3x5 millimeters that is

me too.

used to say, "tell the guy you are buying the wheels from they are for a supra TT." Well, that's not the best - you might get a wheel the does not rub at all or one that does sometimes. Now I say, tell they guy you want fronts that would clear on a supra TT. Probably 8.5 wide and maybe a +50 offset. That is OEM offset. 38 to 50 is the safe range dependind on wheel design. Kind of big window. The lower you get, the more to compromise ride handling potentially. The rears should be set-up for more SC. 45 to 50 if possible. For reference, my halo's (great lookin wheels by the way n I luv em), are 18 by 8.5 up front and they clear the caliper by 5mm or so. I mean it's freaky close. They don't touch anything though no matter how I sling it. Unfortunately, the backs at 9.5 rub a bit on bumps and spirited turns or acceleration if I have someone in back. I need to verify the offset and get some work done on her when it warms up. Hopefully soon. Or I get a heater in the garage. Best way to know if they clear is to get a test fit. That's not usually possible though.

Turbo IS3, I agree to an extent to what has been said here. Do you know if the car is running the oem mass air? Hotwire? DLI or coil packs right? No distributor? Pull the car from that shop. Find a better one, preferrably experienced with the 2jz. Here's what I think. A piggy back fuel processor that has the ability to see boost. s-AFC does not. S-afc with AVC-R does it think. E-manage does. Haltech F5 does. You could go HKS VPC but for that money you could probably go complete standalone. As I see your set-up now, there is nothing to account for pressure and therefore no boost dependant fuel addition. Unless you have a mechanical fmu. There are more I'm sure. Any of those should do well and I'm sure there are other options. Simple digital systems makes some stuff that I'd consider trying.

My word is not bond. Though I might like to think it is. There is always the opportunity for things to go less than ideal. But this is what makes life exciting yea? Anyways, yes - by-pass the stocker tranny cooler because it is located inside of the radiator. Therefore, the fluid is going to be as hot as the engine coolant. Probably not ideal after putting the reworked stall in there. Cut the stocker cooler out of the loop - remove the hot step. Feel free to consult elsewhere as well for other opinions. This was mentioned over at supraforums recently as well.

You need to have the mil procedure run. Pull the code. To find the answer. Off the top of the head - it is probably an idle adjustment as the others state. But if you have a dirty air filter, fuel filter, or otherwise - those things will contribute. Run the procedure to know what the computer is saying is wrong. If you need the procedure in basic form - pm me with your e-mail addy. I will send it over. Otherwise, consult a competent mechanic.

I don't see the real big deal in it. They show full frontal nudity on network tv in Europe or Germany at least. Every night. I think its at midnight and later though. Til 6 in the morning though. Not bad. They say *BLEEP* too though. I guess we Americans still need to loosen up a little.

What's the date fo this shin dig?

I was going to say, why are you watching programming for women... But then I saw you have personal connection to the show. That's pretty cool. Congrats for your cousin. I haven't seen it though. I'll check it out next time I'm at a tv.

Good game last night. Can't believe no one mentioned it here yet. Wardrobe malfunction. That is one of the funniest things I've heard in quite a while.

I got a couple friends that ride. Thought about pickin up one. Maybe in the summer. Too many other things I need to do though. Fun stuff anyways.

Sorry. S-afc is what I had. Gave a cool display. Lots of different options too. I hear the second gen has some more options though.

I used to say, "tell the guy you are buying the wheels from they are for a supra TT." Well, that's not the best - you might get a wheel the does not rub at all or one that does sometimes. Now I say, tell they guy you want fronts that would clear on a supra TT. Probably 8.5 wide and maybe a +50 offset. That is OEM offset. 38 to 50 is the safe range dependind on wheel design. Kind of big window. The lower you get, the more to compromise ride handling potentially. The rears should be set-up for more SC. 45 to 50 if possible. For reference, my halo's (great lookin wheels by the way n I luv em), are 18 by 8.5 up front and they clear the caliper by 5mm or so. I mean it's freaky close. They don't touch anything though no matter how I sling it. Unfortunately, the backs at 9.5 rub a bit on bumps and spirited turns or acceleration if I have someone in back. I need to verify the offset and get some work done on her when it warms up. Hopefully soon. Or I get a heater in the garage. Best way to know if they clear is to get a test fit. That's not usually possible though.

Kind of hard to take. No body damage? He says totalled? The frame must be bent. If it stopped going forward - there is some real trouble there too. Best of luck.

If you're just doing I/H/E I'd say the afc is fine. Cool little unit. Had one in the '93.

That's a good response. Did you get that via e-mail or phone. I can always appreciate a straight up answer from a vendor. I would recommend you get a clear idea of any kind of warranty. Once that is clear or you are ready to jump pick it up. Sounds they are doing a rework of the oem torque converter to stall up a bit higher. Probably not bad if they stand behind their work. I would recommend the tranny cooler as well to be on the safe side. Just by-pass the stock one completely and pick up any decent external unit.

B) Thanks bro. LL and TWINTURBO619 hit it on the nose though. Kinda makes me proud. I was looking at the ad earlier today. Seems like - for the price alone, the car might be a decent deal. I'd offer 9g's if it was in good shape. Dude can keep his turbo stuff. I'll handle that on my own. Dude does lots of talkin' and accomplishes little to sway me. SP big trim whistler and build up. My money has to go to other things now though. House and woman are tearin me up. Nice Aristo by the way. Is that yours TWINTURBO619?

Bill, I think you've got it friend. If coolant was going into the vacuum - you'd be sucking it through the intake I believe. That would smoke like a mutha. I say, hook it all back up and keep an eye on level. Fill if/when it drops. Try to keep it at 50/50 mix though. As long as you don't overheat or smoke. No worries mate. Best of luck. Toyota anit freeze fluid = very good GM = maybe not so hot I thought they were the same too at one point. Shame on me. ;)Hey take it easy on GM and Caddie... people gotta buy those things. That's my meal ticket. I say they're great cars. but i won't buy one

What year? Emission controls have the most impact on this. The ecu will regulate a/f ratio based on oxygen sensor signal, throttle position, air flow through the intake, intake temperature, and probably a couple other things. I would expect to see a post 1996 model year car to pull back on fuel much more than earlier models. I could be wrong though. Just guessing. I would be surprised if any car ran leaner than stoich. Of course the leaner the mix, the closer to detonation we get. That is bad. It is the goal of modern emissions systems to run as lean as possible though for environmental reasons. I'd expect that at idle, a/f would typically hover around stoich possibly lean or real lean. Conversly, at wide open throttle, the car is going to be richer. Exactly what the ratio will be ultimately falls down to the specific vehicle in question because every car is different. Only way to know for sure and accurately, as far as I know, is to hook up to a wide band of some sort either on a chassis dynamometer or with an aftermarket plug in sensor and display. For reference - many turbo charged cars, especially the more aggressively tuned ones - tend to shoot for ratios at 11 to 12:1, sometimes even 10. At wide open throttle that is. the trees and the green party.

Good luck Bill. Feel free to empty the system for piece of mind; but I'm confident you will find it is a air lock towards the heater core. Try running it with the heater on full blast. Keep an eye on that temp gauge just to make sure you are not over heating. Top it off. You are losing coolant as the air is slowly displaced by the coolant. It isn't really going anywhere but where it is supposed to. If you do drain it, follow the procedure in the fsm. Run the car before draining with the heater full blast and shut the car off with the heater on full blast. Then drain it. Refill it in the same condition. Drive it around and make sure no overheat or leaks. Top off as needed. Most likely, no big deal. I've had this happen on a couple of different vehicles. The car doesn't overheat, there is no leak, but the fluid is gone. Eventually, it will be topped. Don't pull the head. It's aiight. Bubblology. I like it.