AWJ

Last August, myself and several other enthusiasts from the midwest met up in Detroit (the weekend of the black out coincidentally). Originally - 50 to 60 cars were going to run from Detroit to Indy to Chicago. The blackout screwed that up as you might imagine. But we did go on a balls out run from Detroit to Chicago after we managed to find some gas nearly 10 hours after the scheduled deadline. Anyways, who says you can't organize your own. I was wanting to run from Cincy to Panama City Beach for tuner bash, but no one wants to do that. Gumball is all right I guess. There are a lot others. Players Run and... okay maybe there is only one other.

That is a very high quality parts list. I'd expect nothing less though. I do believe we were promised some slips as soon as e-town opens up. I didn't realise that you put the TT auto tranny already worked over in there. Nice indeed. How is that e-manage treating ya? Lexual, you can see a relative price breakdown in LL's featured LOC garage. I'm not gonna bother trying to match this set-up any time soon. I'm already broke. We'll see how she looks next year. I know it's been a rough ride, but I think you will be satisfied now Jon. I hope you are going to keep at least one of those examples around a while. Keep us posted on the stats for that puppy.

The SC is a great car. But handling tendendcies will make the car difficult for a first time driver. I feel the car is not ideal for a first time driver. That doesn't mean it isn't good for a first car, but I think a front wheel drive car is the better choice for a first time driver. The first time the SC is mishandled, it will be totaled. One plus is the driver will walk away.

You should not need to shave brake calipers if near to OEM spacing is used relative to offset. +36 and higher will be safest. For example, the SC runs an oem offset of +50 but people have gone as far out as +35. This affects handling and tracking of the vehicle. The lower offset will also make it more likely that the wheel will contact a fender or liner. Are you running stock brake calipers on that car? If so, then it is unlikely that a 20" wheel will require the calipers be shaved. Perhaps this individual is referring to the fender. A test fit will show you where you need to take care of fitment issues. Aside from that, it's finally down to trial and error.

It all depends on turbine location. The downpipe comes from there. Basically all custom.

You'll have to check the ground on the light circuit. You can use a multimeter. Or physically remove the lighter and you will see the connections underneath. Probably the common has a good connection to the ground but has come loose at the lighter itself. I usually tap off the lighter for auxillary stuff, so I put a terminal strip in at the lighter positive and negative and hard wire from there. I haven't done it in this car yet, but I will.

Hmm... I was referring to the compression test. It needs to be done on a warm motor through several cranks. Compression occurs on the compression stroke. You will see negative pressures on various strokes depending on cylinder. I'm not sure what your question is relating to a few working or not. The starter issue. If it clicks and don't turn, then the contact in the solenoid is not completed. If the motor turns and doesn't fire, then there is a fuel, air or spark problem or both or one or two or the timing is fubared.

Try cleanin it.

The screwdriver thing is the only way I know.

+42 will be closer to ideal. It will probably work better. +45 to +50 is better.

B) Damn bro. Shiny.

It would be the same gains. 375 at the wheels probably nets more than the basic sc set-up. But cost will determine that. Most cars don't put 375 to the wheels. But then again, there are a lot that exceed it. Not common.

Cylinders are supposed to suck air on the intake stroke. Even a totally toasted motor will show something on the tester if it can turn freely. The starter job is a pita.

Yes it is Clint's. Why hate the guy. Be happy. Dudes got turbo.

You can use the second gear sensor to fool the auto tranny ecu somehow. There is a company in Australia that sells bellhousing conversion kits for all types of toyota powerplants. I posted the link a while ago. A search should bring it up. Twin turboing the 1uz in the SC is hard without extensive modification to the engine bay because the physical layout puts the turbos too low for the conventional oil return to function correctly. Then a pump is needed to get the oil back from the turbo. Also, twins make ground clearance an issue. This is from what I understand. It is definitely possible to do, but hard in the zz chassis. A single turbo is more possible. Still difficult. But potentially easier and more rewarding.

Lex Luthor has a 1999 SC3. VVTi comes standard with the engine. It features dli and variable timing. From 1998 forward, all in line sixes got it. Long time coming. Great to hear it's rockin'. The attachment is empty though.

Check the miscellaneous gallery for some random service manual images.

I don't even worry about those functions but start with the fuses and go from there. If fuses are okay, get out your multimeter and start checking continuity. You'll need wiring schematics and a fsm. Or take it to a good electrical shop. Possibly bad grounds or a short in the system. Maybe even the processor for those functions. Best of luck.

It was a joke. 6 rounds in the ring with LL. We probably have enough mods for the SC forum. If you are interested in becoming a mod maybe for another forum, pm Matt McNally... Or just hang around. You'll see your chance when it comes.

I like the 5 speed SC3 too over any other choice. Turbo. Simple as that. I'd take a SC3 auto second.

Hi Joe. You should be able to find lots of good info by doing a search on buying a SC or something like that. The basic rules hold true. Fortunately, these cars hold up very well. Some things to look out for immediately are the starter (they tend to lose the contacts over time - easy fix), power steering pump leak, water pump, belts in good shape, door hinges and jambs (bare metal indicates poor alignment, rusted means poor alignment for a long time - harder to fix but not a write off, you'll notice most SC's will have this), worn interior items. Stuff that happens over time. Unavoidable really. Just use your best judgement, don't let the desire to have the car overpower your common sense. The right SC in excellent shape while cheaper now than before, will still be a little higher than your run of the mill SC that people seem to be looking for now a days. Check the faq and try a couple searches. If you still have this question, we will give you some more feedback.

Only six rounds? Taking it easy on him eh?

Very sorry to hear that. How bad is the damage? You might be able to get some quality aftermarket parts (read expensive body kit) painted and installed for the price of oem replacement parts. That all depends on the extent of damage of course. Best of luck.

It's a switch. There are two of them. One at the fully disengaged position and one at the fully engaged position. One disengages cruise control if it is not made. The other has to be made in order for the car to start. Both could be bypassed, but if you retain cruise control, you do not want to by-pass that one. The starter by-pass can be done with a paperclip seated fully into the connector for the switch. Now make sure you are not in gear when you start the car or else you will go for a short, jerky ride. Or if you want to keep the switch, just find where it is and physically adjust the location of it or pedal travel. This will alleviate the clutch pedal start thing. The Lexus manual shifter is not notchy like an integra.

umm... lug nuts are the nuts that hold the wheel and tire on the hub. I'm confused why it would cost 240$ labor to put a lug nut on. Unless you are talking about hub replacement. Then that price would seem to be a little more in line. JPI importz has a banner at the top of our forum and might be able to provide you assistance. I think the shop is located in the Dallas area. Not sure though. If you are talking about the hub - that is a little more labor intensive - a puller of some sort will probably be needed, there is probably a cotter pin of some sort, bearings, not sure what size the nut is - but it will be tight (or should be).