AWJ

lol. I almost picked up a GS3 with an old design f-max kit on it. Looked fine except for the exhaust manifold. It has been redesigned though and I saw a picture of it somewhere recently. Looked much better. I think for the price, you could use a used manifold from somewhere else like Toyomoto or SP and use the rest of the kit and have a pretty good entry level system if it is all set up correctly.

Jon, Dog gammit man!!! WTF!! Did you try the greddy inspected e-manage again or what? If you don't mind, I'd like to talk about it. I know you are probably frustrated - so take some cool down time. Let me know when a good time to call is. I'm very sorry to hear about all this. Let me know if there is anything I can do. We are glad you are okay. Stay safe.

I wouldn't rebuild a motor that didn't need it. A 125k motor probably is just fine. Test it though. It probably won't hurt to have the head done though with new valve stem seals, valve checked, angle job and maybe light porting - deck. At 6 pounds, I'd just keep 10:1. ObdII is just more wires, sensors, systems to trick. Not impossible. Just more expensive possibly. Ditch Safc and get something that will read boost. Or keep it and get another unit that will read boost - like avc-r with safc, or injector controller, etc.

tps, idle adjsutment, or fuel pump ecu above and beyond the obvious maintenance items. It is possible if the tps is found to be root cause that it is merely mislocated, dirty or otherwise serviceable and not necessarily bad to the point of needing replacement. But then again, it might need replacement. Unless you are able to test it yourself, you won't really know. 200$ could be reasonable though for labor and a job well done.

Reliability is good if the install is good and quality parts are used and the tuning is correct and no mistakes were made. The auto tranny is weaker unless you get a 98 or newer, but then the rods are weaker. What's worse? I have my own opinion on that. We've discussed all of these things a great amount in the past. There are many threads - hit search and you will be pleased. I have hit 20 psi before all stock internals. Is it safe to do that? NO. 10 pounds daily is no problem. Above that, and you need to be wary of the tuning, not that lower than that won't require more fuel. I always say 1995 is the model year to choose to turbo. 98+ is vvti and obdII (I think the 96+ are obII). These things make it harder but not impossible. There is nothing wrong with a 92-94 model either though. As far as mileage is concerned. Check compression. Make sure all systems are operating correctly. If you plan to pull the head anyways, make sure the valves and all that are nice. They probably will be, but might not be depending on who used the car before. There are turbo ge's approaching 200,000. Then again, there are turbo ge's that didn't make it too far out of the shop. My advice, whatever you end up with, keep your wallet fat or be prepared to get creative.

I'm contemplating using the rear trunk lifts on the CF front hood. Then just getting new trunk lifts for the back. But if you go with a CF or frp trunk, then those shocks would be too strong as well. I've seen the mr2 lift and thought about trying it. I think the best bet would be to get a ratio on weight between the oem panels and the new panels. Use that number as a factor to reduce the force of the lift and find one as close as possible to the oem unit with the lower rating.

Happy b-day!

yea

We have discussed this lots of times. Not to get on it but check out the search or hit the faq, a few pages back even. I bought 2 5 speed SC's in two years, two years ago. <_< What I mean is. It's not that hard to find one. Autotrader is your friend. Think advanced search, no distance limit, airplane ticket and car freight. ;) Our buy sell forum has em. There are others too. I know of like 7 at least right now. They are getting older though. If you still can't find anything, let us know. We'll set ya straight.

You can hit up our search. We have gathered enough info on a lot of items to get a nice amount of info together. There is a thread in the worksop tutorials section with the SC control arm job detailed. Also our faq has some info. There are also pictures of the bushings and the job in our gallery thanks to our members here. To answer your question - Daizen makes bushings that will replace the old ones in the existing arm. The bushing swap is a chore though. Your mechanic might not want to do it if he is not hurting for cash. But who knows. Also, try our vendor JPI if you are looking for a whole arm or even input. The banner is up top. Good luck.

That's nice K9. I linked that up in the faq. Thanks.

SC430? SC400? SC300? Year? There is a website with general listing obd1 and bod2 mil's. They cover lexus/toyota. I posted the link a while back. Sounds like you need a new catalytic converter though. Wich one? Yea. Change all your oxygen sensors too. That's my newest kick. Those things are critical man.

It seems I can just splice it up. For now at least. Forgot to pick up some heat jacket though. I'll snip, clip, crimp and deal with it after the trip. Just keep the boost down in the mean time. <_< Back to polishin' pipes. Need to make these look at least a little better.

As you said in the title, the fan is hydraulic. There is no belt there, unless I'm missing something and it is like hydraulic clutch or something like that. Then it is a belt. Or the hydraulic fan drive is cavitating. Or the squeak is another accesory off that belt. Belt dressing might help. But if you've got a pully problem, you'll want to nip it. Check them all. Go from there, is what I would do.

BTW, the ticking noise is just the heat sheilds. It is normal. Unless you take them off. Then you shouldn't hear it any more.

Thanks for the confidence. Can I just but splice that wire? The wire I show that is busted was actually run fairly decently away from the hot stuff. I went to take the heat sheild off the turbine side and as I moved the o2 wire it just crumbled. I can't believe any of the wire is good enough to give an accurate signal. I might just splice it, put it all together and take it to a shop, but then time becomes an issue again. Might have to take the daily to Florida. Ah well. We'll get her fixed up. Here are the cans. I plan to have everything re installed by friday.

You should have the computer checked for trouble codes. Sounds like you are going into limp mode when a certain condition is present. Did the mechanic do everything correctly? Did they do the ignition system? It's is too difficult to say exactly what your problem is. It could be anything from a loose vacuum line to a bad oxygen sensor - (they should be replaced at around 100k) to even a torque converter problem.

Got the emblems off with dental floss, a screw driver, and a pocketknife. Not the best method. I was able to buff the scratches out. I'm putting the emblems back on so the wordmark stain is covered anyways. The car will need a re paint. The best way to get them off is with fishing line and a heat gun or hair dryer. But I wasn't worried about it at the time. I'll do the front that way. I know the hood will work out just fine. I'll put pics up when it's on. The problem is the busted o^2 wire. I'm a little worried about that. The other stuff can be fixed easy. The weather is excellent today. I'm out to get back at it. I'll hit the auto parts store tomorrow in search of a splice kit or something. Not sure what to with the wire at this point.

Wasn't planning to get this far so soon. Worked Friday night and Saturday. Pulled the emblems. Used all the wrong tools and broke one. I'll paint them black and put them back on interim. Troubleshooting the rear tire rubbing. I removed the small trim strip in the rear wheel well. Seems this is the culprit. Still need to mount the wheels and check. Otherwise, cutoff wheel time. Polished the mufflers as much as I could bear to hold a dremel to it. Not stellar but goog looking. Got the car up in the air and realized that not just the axle back section is Trust/Jasma, but the whole shabang from the turbine back is. Kinda neat. Dirty, but neat. So then I go around to the front. Decide I want to pull a rh headlight. Realize the turbo piping is in the way. Get the wrech out and before I know it, I've taken the whole uppers system down. I was going to pull the pipes anyways. After polishing the mufflers though, I don't have the time or the patience to try and polish these. Then they will oxidize back after a while. So they get black paint too. Headlight is out though. One major setback is that I broke the oxygen sensor wire. That fcuker was burnt and brittled. Now I need to figure out how to splice that corroded !Removed! piece of shielded o^2 before I can drive the car again. Did get a hard number on the compressor side a/r now that it is apart. .5. Still have no idea as to hot side numbers. I'm guessing .5 to .6 maybe more because spoolup while hot is quite immediate. But full boost is fast. Anyways, how much shaft play makes a bad turbo. I don't even want to get into turbo condition. Compressor wheel looks good, cold housing looks ok, center cartrige shows corrosion, fittings are crapped - as soon as they come off they will disintegrate if they don't desintigrate und a wrech. Turbine housing seems just fine but everything is well corroded. Don't get me started on all the little oil weeps. I need the car back running by March 13 though do this will wait until we get back. Much more work than I thought and we'll just have to see - not really worried though. Oh, I'll put the cf hood on and report fitment when this is buttoned up for this round. Wish the damn bumper would get here. But that is another story.

I feel you are correct. It's best to be safe than sorry. Change the lifts. The aftermarket panels are much lighter.

It should match up. But the 1jz runs a r154 wich is touted as perfectly capable. Just get the motor with that tranny and rock it. You'll probably pay more for the getrag.

The SC in stock form is not quite a boat. 17 * 8.5 wheels will bring the handling into a nice category. Bushings and suspension will turn it into a better handler but tighten the ride. A bigger sway bar up front should reduce the oversteering tendency. I have never driven or modified an IS so I can't say anything.

I will be here... http://www.superstreetonline.com/upcominge...0401_tunerbash/

Mad props on that one.

I have not gotten a spot to show yet (I won't win anything, but it's always fun to get in line). Not sure if I will but I'm debating getting a spot for Saturday. We are leaving on March 16 and heading to Treasure Island - there are basically no rooms left so anyone who might want to go should probably get a room tomorrow. Anyways, meet me in Florida if you want. The turbo will be in attendance. Looking forward to a tan. PM me if anyone is interested in meeting up, chillin' on the beach, tearin' up a club or two, or shreddin' asphalt in the sun. It better be sunny.