AWJ

You can pay a shop that knows it's shizzle to rework the valves and or solenoids for more pressure. That is about it.

Ok. A mil could be anything. What turbo kit is it? What size is the turbo? What kind of fuel considerations have been made? What kind of air consideration has been done? They didn't even bother to run the code? You will need to pull it to know what is up.

Slow. Cool people. Buisy people. It's only been three days man. I've been waiting 4 months for parts from GTP. Reminds me I need to make a phone call. Not the worst I ever did business with - but not the best. Emerald that is. GTP royally bites at this point. My advice. You want a part. Get them on the phone and find out if it is in stock. Then order it right then and there - call back for a tracking number.

It's just an electronic cut out. I like the idea myself. Power to a solenoid blank flange. Put it at the end of the dp on a y. Greddy or Trust(thanks to the parts on ma ridez) has always been good to me too by the way.

Seats from toyota? A lot of money. Cost the same as Corbeau's or whatever. I've seen Sparco seats and stuff in leather with all the electronical goodies and what not. Even seat heaters. Probably won't just plug in though. Not sure about gears but I thought I read that the SC3 rear will go in there. So anything that would fit in a SC3 will work in a SC4. As long as the input is the same.

I'm running stock suspension as far as I know. The ride is too good and the stance is just fine even with the low profile 18"s on it. Could use a drop. I was all over the jic flta2's. Then I wondered how often I would actually adjust it and if it was worth the cost. Then I read about JIC stuff breaking. So I started thinking about kyb agx/eibach. You don't have to get lowering springs by the way. But if you don't need new shocks and don't want to lower it, I don't see the reason to change them. If you need to because one or all have failed, I'd stick with oem if I weren't going to lower it. Anyways, I'm thinking air ride for my sled. Air Ride Technologies has caught my eye. I was going to bag the accord and turbo it but I think I'm just going to sell it out after putting some kyb's and eibach's on it because they do need replacing.

By the time you add the cost of all those NA bolt on performance parts and include labor, you have nearly reached the cost of forced induction. That is my rationale. But if that is what is desired - normally aspirated performance, that is - by all means - go for it.

I'll let you in on a little secret. You can make clear corners with materials easily found at most home improvement stores sell the material you would need to do the job. Aside from the creativity that is. The clear plastic is the flourescent light fixture diffuser material - you know, the plastic cover over the lights in the ceiling at work or in your shop. Cut it to shape and pop the old orange cover out, stick the one you made in. Viola. I don't know how much the materials cost compared to what the individual is charging - maybe no advantage. But that is how they are doing it, I'm willing to wager. There was some info about the actual job on line somewhere. I might try to dig it up if I find some time.

I might still have my old ones from when I did the upgrade. I'll check. Let me know if you think you might want them. The clips that is. If I still have them. No promises.

No tips or tricks for that job friend. PITA. Your contacts are worn in your starter solenoid as you stated. It needs to come out. The contacts can be replaced easily by any starter or electrical motor rebuild shop and chances are, the rest of your starter is just fine. Your battery is probably dead now too though. You will probably have to replace it as well unless it is new already.

Not sure on that. There is a list of all option changes over the years for the SC3/4 stickied up top. It should have it. Might not though. Black leather became an option in 1995. Before that, the only choice was grey or brown. 1995+ had the choice of the three.

I've seen it somewhere before but I do not remember where. I'll try to locate it and link it up. Check our standard fall backs though - Planetsoarer, etc. Really buisy this week.

Sounds like a bunch of bull. The tranny bolts directly to the engine block via bell housing. There is nothing moving externally. Did they say it was leaking there or something? Inside that there is a torque converter. That is what physically links the crank to the transmission. Then out of the transmission there is a mechanical joint to the driveshaft. On to the next mid point with support, another mechanical joint - then to the differential where there is a final mechanical joint. Does your car jerk you around at low speeds or on initial wide open throttle? Does it feel loose and snappy harsh turning or off the line? Do you see any fluid leaks or obvious mechanical problem at any of the mentioned locations? No? Then they are trying to hose you dog. Unless they are talking about the tranny mount. That is another thing to check. I can't say for sure that your place is full of crooks, but it sure sounds like it. If someone at a shop said something like that to me, I'd would really check the job the car was in there for to begin with.

No link yet. I was over at their site yesterday. Looks good. You want to post it?

If you still have a problem after that your torque converter and tranny are next. Troubleshoot those.

My set-up leaves the compression at 10:1. I have heard bad stories about the stacked head gasket. If you want to drop compression using a head gasket, use a head gasket that will do the job at the correct thickness to begin with. I always recommend a book by Corky Bell called maximum boost. Read it. Twice.

The sidemount works just fine for the amount of air I'm flowing. I haven't measure air temperatures - so I'm not sure if my set-up would benefit from a front mount. It was put together by toyomoto though. I suppose they chose that intercooler and it does the job. I like the hidden ic look as well. Then again, an aggressive fmic looks cool as well.

When you turn the key, do you hear a "click" or not? If you hear a click and nothing else - pull your starter, the solenoid is bad - probably just needs new contacts. If you don't hear a click, check the starter electrical connections and the clutch interlock. You can bypass the clutch interlock switch. For the car to start, the switch at the top of clutch travel must be made open (off) and the switch at the bottom of clutch travel must be made closed (on). It is possible the switch is mis adjusted or bad. Just jump across the connector to by-pass it. This is for the lower one. Don't by pass the top one - or else your cruise control will stay on when you depress the clutch and that's not a good idea.

It all depends on wheel design. But factory offset is +50. I'd say +45 to +50 not over +50 but not under +40. There is still a chance something might rub. The only way to know for sure is to test fit the wheels.

I can't say that for sure. But the job has been done before. Maybe a custom head gasket. Maybe not. I personally feel that if you have a perfectly good 2jz sitting in front of you, and you want a turbo - then it is pointless to go to 1jz. Just slap a good turbo on the ge and rock it. But if someone wants a 1 or 1.5 jz - who am I to say that's wrong? It definitely gets cool points.

I say do the 1.5jz. The bottom end is equally strong. Guys in japan do it as a cost alternative displacement up on the 1jz. Research it. I think one of our members did it. Only posted like 2 times though. Try www.supraforums.com . They have tons of discussions on this and how to do it. As far as the computer working - some things will definitely work. Too hard to say what won't. Stand alone is an alternative.

Bean, it's a little different for you because you are running the 1jz with the turbo ecu from the factory. In that application, the safc does what you want. Pulls or adds a little here and there. The oem computer already accounts for boost. Our situation is a normally aspirated motor with a computer and hardware that was not put together with boost in mind. There is no map for boost. We can add a 1uz flow meter that will meter a bit more air. But fuel dump should be accurately accounted for. You got a deal on that apexi. I've seen injector controllers for just a little more. I'd feel a whole lot better about running something that will boost dependant for the na-t application.

I understand your logic and I used to think the same way. Frankly, I feel the safc is nothing more than a pretty gauge set with quazi-real time feedback. There is no feature of the safc to see boost. So beyond any percentage adjustment over certain points of the rpm range - the fuel will be the same as set. Therefore the transition from vacuum to positive pressure is never seen. It would be better to use a boost dependant fuel enrichment device. People say mechanical fmu's are crap, but I would think this would be not a bad solution. I have never used one though. Better yet is a pressure transducer unit - take the haltech f5 for example - that will notice the transition into positive pressure, actually meter it, and then dump fuel depending on cut in and rate settings via potentiometer adjustment (ideally on a dyno with wideband). There are many injector controllers and other units that will do this. Simple digital systems touts a unit that is "user friendly" as has cought my eye in the past. Basically, you are looking for units that boast 3D features. Where it will use three references as input. RPM, throttle position, and boost for example. The fuel controller is only going to pull or add fuel where it is set. It will always be the same given rpm. Where boost might not be the same every time at any given rpm - causing a lean or rich condition. You go too lean under boost and... well - you've heard the stories.

I have heard good things about the boost logic deal and the DaveH set. Haven't seen the hardware yet though. That is a great offer, JPI. Wish that was made to me when I was going through my research.

So what is it already? A greddy 3 row or what?