AWJ

Hey guys, I'll post this real quick. Gallery is down so I can't link the image, I'll have to upload here. Just click it. Seems position 33 is indeed called a valve lifter. I have no idea why. Valve lifters typically sit in a valve lifter bore and actuate a push rod or rocker are directly. I guess in the pure definition, it could be a valve lifter in the idea that it actually transfers the cam action to the valve stem through the shim. But I would not call it a valve lifter. Perhaps it is something lost in translation. I would call it a spring cap or lash cap if I were the engineer on the job. But I wasn't so it's a valve lifter. Bob, you need a shim job to remove your clicking noise. Clearance will need to be checked with a thickness gauge and shims added per field manual until to proper clearance specification is reached according to the field manual. I would not recommend going to the dealer for that job. But there might be a service tech somewhere at a dealer that would do it right. Who knows. I think JPI will do it right for a better price. Best of luck.

I said I would move this to suggestions/feedback forum a few days ago and forgot. Well, here it goes. I still think SC430 owners should be welcome in our forum for reference. Thanks, AJ

What year is your car? How is the e-manage set up on yours? I thought the e-man could handle auxillary injectors but I see you have an additional injector controller as well as the e-man. Why? Does the 3 bar map completely replace the MAS? Looks real good man. I didn't mention it before but a supra TT automatic tranny with some reworked valve bodies should be able to handle your load nicely I think. Ask Kean though.

If it idles without any problem, it is idleing lower because the new battery has reduced the load on the alternator. Sounds like your alternator was working double time to charge your battery.

Never mind, I didn't look at your sig. I meant how is your car set-up to run 350. I see now. If you carry to much boost in first you car won't shift like you said. You run the risk of popping your motor. I might suggest some sort of rpm and gear dependant boost controller. Kean does good work I hear. You can bolt a th400 transmission in the car with some adapter plates and modifications. It is the GM 3 speed. Very strong and cheaper if it breaks. Popular on the drag strip. Check supra forums or ask Kean about it. But it's expensive too. Sorry to tell you this but if your warranty is through lexus, it is void now. I'm surprised they didn't tell you that before you did all that work. Best of luck. Y

Can you do a screen capture? cntrl+v I think. Then past it into paint cntrl+p. That should allow you to save it as a .jpg . Make sure you have a full screen image though or too much browser will show unless you edit it from paint. If not I will send you my addy. Better yet, if you fax it to me at work tomorrow, I will scan and post it for everyone. I'll PM you my fax #. Thanks man, AJ

I've always liked Panama City. I can't help thinking it would have been better to go there than Dayotona Beach. You just got back? So I take it you didn't show for Tuner Bash over there? That was three days before the Daytona event. Of course, if I went there, I would not have had the opportunity to meet the people I did meet whom were very cool. What set-up are you running? We seem to be fairly equal in power. Your auto tranny is giving out on you eh? Details man. I agree it is very addictive and very expesnive. If you go manual, you may as well do the six speed or you could try to get your hands on a R154 maybe from a mkii turbo 5 speed. If you want a manual tranny. For auto, I'd consider a th400 or 300 and a overdrive unit if you want to drive it long distances.

Mind if I take a look at that diagram you are talking about? Or could you scan and attach it if possible? I'm wondering if they are calling it a valve lifter and maybe it isn't what a traditional valve lifter might be. That's really strange. The cams push directly down on the valve stem through a shim I thought.

I just got an estimate (like today) from a well respected shop in my area that does frame off restorations. (Yea, out here in the wooded hill jack region, I found a professional restoration shop - who'd a thunk it?) Anyways, I want them to fix a dent in my rear quarter (don't ask) and repaint my car. He said he would spray a dupont premire base black - and 4 layers of clear over it. Then wet sand it to remove the orange peel. Then polish it. This would give it a glass finish. I trust the guy becauase he has two 50,000$ restoration jobs sitting in his office. I swear, the cars look like they are glass. I might reverse my stance on wetsanding if you don't park your car outside except for the rare occasion. I won't get into price - but it was a fair number. Problem is, he can't get to it until the winter. So I'm going to have him repair and match the dent this weekend. The car will be repainted in December. I must say, I'm stoked about it.

I always just take the bulb to the store and find one the same size. I couldn't tell you off hand what size it is.

I don't think so.

Translation: Don't bring your dope with ya. ;) Just kidding. That's why I like kentucky. No front plate required. Probably the only reason I like Kentucky. Well that and no emissions laws. And... umm.... hmmm... <_<

Don't know what to tell you about your dead pedal. Never had a problem with it myself. The seat base is removable, don't know where you'd find another though aside from in a junkyard or used. I might have put a seat teardown diagram in the misc. gallery. I'll check later and link it. Or you can go look for it. Not sure if I did or not, it was a long time ago I put some assy. diagrams in there. As far as your bumper, one option is to go to a good body shop and have them use a quality eqoxy or otherwise filler to fill the holes and blemishes. Then repaint to match. Otherwise, you'll have to replace and repaint to match.

I saw something just now on planet soarer. I'll link it up this evening. It will probably help. I'm in the middle of an oil change right now though.

I've tried it. Now that I think about it though, heel toe is right foot. Forget I mentioned it.

Wet sand is last resort. Take it to a professional detailer and ask what they think. Ask to see pictures of their work. A good, thorough wax with high quality materials should get it off of there. A plastic polish on the lights and light solvent on the windows. 17k miles on a 95 is insane. That is awesome.

Crane cams would probably do a regrind if you tell them what duration and lift you want. Maybe they can only effect duration. Not sure on that cam stuff. Cam's are just a part of the equation though. They are part of a total package. Just changing the cams is not going to net any significant gain.

If you guys are talking about wind resistance - I'll have to disagree. If you change the differential out to the 6 speed TT differential, the car will do 200 or close to it I think. Someone will have to verify that though. It's all in the gearing. A turbo might help.

Like I said, it only comes online at wide open throttle. Any other time, it is still stuck in the intake tract. This is an obvious restriction and no good.

There is probably some opportunity there. How much? I have no idea without a dyno.

What do you guys think would be a fair price? Let me raid the garage and see what I can scrounge up. The SC4 and SC3 box are just a little different. Anything I make would probably need a little modification to fit perfect. I do have that cone element and maf adapter if anyone is interested. Easy conversion.

Should be fine.

A reworked torque converter or stall converter will free up some of the loss throught the drive train. This is at the expense of smooth shifting and it will heat the tranny up. You should get an external tranny cooler and bypass the oem auto tranny cooler in order to preserve the transmission if one of these is chosen. It will probably give the most feel of more power aside from nitrous or forced induction.

I have some older Diamond Audio components just sitting here that used to be in my '93. One might need repair, but I think it will work. 2 6", 2 4" and 2 tweets - with crossovers. Make an offer if you're interested. They sounded great when I crashed it way back in the day. These are higher end speakers, I'll let 'em go cheap.

Are you sure it is your anti-theft device that is not allowing you to start your car? If so, you will have to take it to the dealer. I do not know how to clear the ecu of that issue. Someone must have tripped it somehow. Otherwise, you need to troubleshoot your battery, starter and fuel/ignition. I'd go in that order.