AWJ

I think the reference is regarding oxygen sensor replacement. An aged oxygen sensor will give inaccurate readings that degrade over time causing a rich condition, leading to catalytic converter burnout, leading to increased backpressure, leading to exhaust gas reversion, leading to burned valves, cylinders and elevated cylinder temperatures and inefficient burning and detonation and ultimately - a destroyed motor.

That's unfortunate. Give it a little while and try again later. I got it last night and the video is just awesome. 9 minutes or view time... Wish I could upload it from my pc. If it is still dead tomorrow, I'll pull it. Sorry bout that.

AMAZING: I need speedvision. Ignore the sideways comment at the end. Right click, save as... long DL time - dial up beware. Awesome! Safe link, never hurts to use a virus scan before opening though. Lotus vs. Apache http://www.1320design.com/OT/Top_Gear_Exige_hi.wmv

Didn't realize you had to buy it locally. I always ship parts. The nearest dealer to me is over an hour away. Not that I use the dealer for anything. Of course I also have a sandblaster, hydraulic press and end mill all at my disposal as well as anything else I might need.

Call another dealer or JPI.

Glass chips when it gets hit with things. Fact of life. Like it or not. :)

On a stock ignition, oem wires will be fine and most likely, your best bet. Contact our vendors like JPI. It is ideal to change them every 60 to 80k.

Nice

It sould plug in fine, but the memory feature will be useless unless you wire it in. Not sure if there is a box for that feature or not - i.e. power seat control unit or whatever. But I've never played with that so don't hold my word for it. Only way to know for sure is to try it. Then tell us what you figure out.

I will need a new wind shield as well. But my baby does not go on the road much and the pock is hardly noticeable. It's on the long list. I will source an oem windshield when I go and have a very trustworthy body guy do the work. You get what you pay for. If you skimp, you will have a not so good job done with a maybe not so good part.

That's all that really matters in the end.

Johnfw, the best way to get a feeling of more power would most likely be to find a way to advance the timing and engine parameters from oem settings. Not sure if there is an ecu reflash or aftermarket programmer for those things. That might be the best bang for your buck without going to serious power adders. This will allow timing advance and manipulation of shift points through electronic means. Another idea for firmer shifts is to have the valve bodies worked over in the oem transmission. You will definitely need to locate and consult a performance shop, most likely a high end one, that has their wits about them. It won't be cheap. But cheaper than going with big power adders. Intake and exhaust mods are really just cosmetic while slightly changing performance curves. They are not cost effective. But they can be fun and look cool.

A liscensed shop should be able to put a compression fitting on there to repair it. I don't know the part #. A repair would definitely be cheaper than a new delear part. Or you can take it to an industrial supply shop and get them to fab up another line just like it and swap them. Just make sure they know how much pressure it will take and make the line accordingly.

Damn, you're right. 1.8 is 25.6 pounds. That is wrong. Had to go out and look at the controller. It only goes to 1.6. It was two bars down from the max and that is 1.4 kg/cm^2 wich is 19.11111 pounds I think if my math is right. No wonder she rumbled at me eh? That was with the high boost dialed to the mid position though. I think my wastegate is sticking. Bean_8044: good catch. Hey, if you were in the states I'd say, lets fab one up for that 1jz. If you can find a good welder, you should be able to get a one off manifold for a decent price if you buy the weld els yourself. You could do a custom merge and flange of your choice for 1g easy I'd say. Unless that is too much clams.

No prob. Friends call me AJ. Full autoclave!!!!!! So that's how you made that CF hood. And molding facility, with injection molding machines? And they just left the stuff there!!!??? AMAZING!! I would have been all over that too. I had no idea that was the set-up. I went to college on a scholarship for plastics engineering. That would be a dream come true for me. I hope you keep that set-up and at least use it to the fullest potential for yourselves. Let me know if I can do anything in the future. That is really cool the facility generates income from team rental... I know how it gets when business gets thick... deadlines... I have uppermanagement to worry about. It's always extremely difficult being the only force to make results. [Mental note]*start saving for really big garage*[/Mental note]... Keep it sideways... ;) Thanks for the support, come on back any time. I'm sure you could edumacate some of us hilljacks as well...

Sorry to hear that Em. I understand your position completely. I can't say I know how you feel but I can relate - probably not with the car thing because I never got to get into the scene as much as you and yours. I'll remove the plug for your services on my OS page just in case. I do appreciate the parts I've received in the past. There is no satisfying 100% of the poeple 100% of the time. I know I myself flew off the handle on the CF hood thing. Perspective is goofy. I just don't know anymore myself. Regardless, best of luck... sounds like you guys have a plan... just how much tooling do you have? A fully outfitted facility for lay-up and molding and race shop as well or what? I just wonder sometimes how some guys get the hook-ups and others don't when they take the same route... It's all timing I guess. Or is it presentation?

I'm a true addict,.... AWWWW *BLEEP* I got a headrush... B) ;) I think you both are right. I mean correct. As opposed to, not left.

Is a . My baby had been sitting for about three weeks. I did some minor work on her and had her on jack stands. Well, had to run in to work for a little while today and decided to take the beast. First the battery was dead. Left the trunk open and it must have drained it. Got her jumped and let her idle a while. Took her down the street real easy and let it all get warmed up. Then WOT!! She spike to 1.8 kg/cm^2 and detonated sequentially. Shot a puff of smoke out the back. I had the high boost button activated. D'oh... never heard that before on this car. Maybe the petro got weak leaving it sit and then high boosting it definitely didn't help. I promptly deactivated high boost and drove in the rest of the way without incident. It was a very minor bout of detonation. But I think she will need to visit the tuner after I make sure nothing was hurt. Seems just fine though. Checked her out in the parking lot and she showed no unusual signs of trouble. She was really movin' though ;)

I appreciate the interest. Unfortunately, I will have to put any planning on hold for personal reasons at this point... I may be relocating to Florida. Once that is worked out... I can participate in organizing an event. Please feel free to move on with this idea though. It is a great one and I will do whatever I can to assist.

If you trust the previous owner, it sounds like nothing needs to be done. I usually change fluids on a new used vehicle. But sounds like you're safe to not worry about it. Sounds like you got an excellent vehicle there at a good price. Congrats. They are wonderful cars. Take care of it and it will take care of you. Sounds like you're ready to start modifying. I might suggest some 18 inch wheels. Some supra TT brakes. Lowering suspension. Sound system with tv's of course. Have fun with it. Welcome to the club.

Check the miscellaneous gallery for some other diagrams of other things. Good luck. Fairly straitforward job.

Could be the needle is off center. Nice link though. Won't hurt to do that.

As a general rule... I will never buy anything off of ebay that is over 200$ ever again. In fact, I will not buy anything I can not see in person ever again. I do make exceptions when a private seller is willing to do COD or when I am working with a business/individual or company that I can trust and it is documented. I would not waste my time on that motor, unless I was willing to go see it in person and get whatever information or documents I needed to make a sound decision. I do not trust anything on e-bay anymore. It's just safer for me that way. Granted, there are very good sellers on e-bay that I have done business with in the past. I just call the seller after contacting them through e-bay and circumvent the bidding process if I want to do business with them.

No prob... I forgot to attach the photo...

Some wheel manufacturers such as HRE do provide straps to band the sensors to their wheels so you can continue to use them. Here is something you may want to follow up on - as well as other 430 owners: The sensors are located in the valve stem & are linked remotely to the detector in the car. these sensors are color coded as to which wheel they go on (note the little painted area in photo). So, be sure to put them in the right location, or you might get the idea you have a flat in the wrong place. Maybe everyone knew this, but one of mine was busted and the dealer wanted to know what color it was so he could send me the right one. The problem with a lot of custom wheels is that the hole for th valve stem will not accomodate the stem of the RF sensor. On my HRE 540Rs, which are not compatible, HRE removed the valvestem portion from the sensor and put regular valve stems on my non run-flat tires. Then they just banded the sensors to the wheels. They sensors work fine, no light flashing and no problem. Your wheel company should have the bands, if not call Peter at Wheel experts.com and he can probably get you some. It's easy to do yourself. I didn't do it, since I had my sensors off of my crappy L-sportline wheels. It's no a problem at all. If you don't use the sensors hang on to them. They are EXPENSIVE. About $164 each!!! Hope this helps. REGARDING THE LIGHT ON THE DASH. IT IS ACTUALLY QUITE SIMPLE TO REMOVE THE DASH. IT'S JUST THE FRONT ROUND GAGE COVER SECTION THAT COMES OFF. USING A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER PLACE IT BETWEEN THE HARD PLASTIC THAT SURROUNDS THE GAGE COVER AND SOFT VINYL APPLY A LITTLE PREASURE AND IT EASILY POPS OFF. DO THE SAME TO THE OTHER SIDE. (5 SECONDS) UNSCREW THE GAGE FROM THE BACK AND APPLY A PIECE OF BLACK TAPE OVER THE WARNING LIGHT FROM THE BACK. IT TAKES ABOUT 5-10 MINS. REGARDING THE BEEP: DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!!!! UNDER THE DASH BOARD NEAR THE STEERING COLUMN THERE IS A TWO PRONG BLACK CONNECTOR WITH A PURPLE WIRE AND A RED WIRE JUST TO THE LEFT OF THE COLUMN. SIMPLY DISCONNECT AND NO MORE BEEP. IT ONLY AFFECTS THE BEEPING SENSOR FOR THE RUN FLAT. TADA. LEX LUGAR Found this looking around a little... I can get more if needed. Just post back up... Good luck.