A few months ago, It developed a starting problem. It wouldn't start unless I held foot partially on the gas pedal, and I'd have to use the pedal to keep it from stalling a few seconds (hot, or cold, didn't matter. EVERY TIME I start it, I have to do that) But once it starts, it runs silky smooth at the time, I
Ran Seafoam through it
Changed ECT
Cleaned IACV
Cleaned MAF
Changed driver side Ign Coil
None of them worked.
I was pretty sure, the ECU was bad, because the Check Engine Light never came on with ignition key on, though, while driving on the freeway, it did come on, dim at first, but as you press the throttle, it gets brighter...anyways, I left it alone for a while until I could get the time and money to get the ECU rebuilt
Recently, I sent the ECU to a shop to be rebuilt, and they told me that it was in too bad shape to rebuild...ordered a rebuilt ECU on Ebay for $150.
Hooked up the "new" ECU and the engine seems to run worse than before...It won't idle at all now, and when I use the gas pedal, and take it up the RPM band, it sounds as if the engine is running on 5 cylinders or something. but this time, I can at least check the codes.
22
ECT Sensor Signal
24
IAT Sensor Signal
41
TP Sensor Signal
47
Sub TP Sensor
I've already changed the ECT sensor, so It's odd that it comes up... I removed it, and put it back in, to make sure everything was tight, pulled the ECU fuse, and it still comes back
IAT I assume is Idle Air Temp? quick forum search tells me that it's in the MAF
and does the TP codes indicate that I need to replace the sensor? or that it needs adjustment?
and...wth is a "sub TP sensor?"
This seems like waay too many codes especially since it was running so smooth with the old ECU (once it does start)
could it be one thing causing all of those codes??
I'm at a loss here...I'll spend the $150 for the TPS if I have to...but it would SUCK if it STILL doesn't work...
