gumbytech

I think the strut bumper and insulator should be replaced when the strut is reassembled. You can find them at www.irontoad.com As I recall, I paid about $80 total (enough for 4 struts). I replaced the lower insulator and the bumper. Note, you can reuse your stock springs if you don't plan to lower your vehicle. I had an independent shop do the work and I paid about $100/strut-mount installation. So for me, the total for the complete strut job was about $1,000. I bought the struts/mounts from tirerack as well. But you are right, I have since learned of another place that includes shipping so about a savings of about $50. I have heard that labor can be less then what I paid as well. Be very careful doing this job yourself, it is dangerous due to the spring compression requirements. Now what else? These cars are known for lower control arm bushings and sway bar bushings failing, so you might want to take a good look at them as well. I replaced my lower control arms (ebay) and will replace my sway bar bushings (energysuspension) next month. Good luck. Dan

I recently did some research into replacements for the OEM lighting. I have a 97 ES300 High 9005 Low H7 Fog H3 I highly recommend people spend some time at this website for some important info about lighting. Be cautious, there is much marketing hype about lights. I purchased all my lamps from this guy (I am not affiliated in anyway). They are just ordered so I can't speak from experience yet. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html Below is email (2/26) from him with his recommendation: Fog: H3 Gold, $13/ea. Low: Ultra High Efficacy Plus 50 bulb (Osram Silverstar +50, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht +50, etc. -- we currently stock the Tungsram) $17.50/ea High: New 9011 "light cannon" bulb. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.) Here's the comparison: High beam stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours High beam new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours These bulbs are spendy - $34/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan. The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. I don't have access to my car now and won't have chance to install them until mid April, but I'll let you know how it goes. Good luck. Dan

Don't have access to my car now and I want to order Energy Suspension polyeurthane bushings for the FSB. Energy Suspension doesn't sell one specifially for the Lexus/Camry, but the offer generic ones based on the diameter. I have a stock 97 ES300, anyone have this dimension for me? Note: I have ordered a Solara TRD RSB and it includes Energy Suspension bushings. Thanks much. Dan

I just installed KYB struts and mounts. I have ordered Solara strut bar and TRD RSB. So I wanted to move to urethane on the bushings and stabilizer links. Reason: increased durability and better performance over OEM rubber. My existing bushing/links are OEM rubber that is 8 years old and 75K miles. I have looked at energysuspension and whiteline, but am confused on what parts will work. I also do not see urethane stabilizer links. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan

I would like to replace my OEM rubber bushings on the FSB with urethane. What are recommendations? When replacing FSB rubber, what else should be replaced besides the main bushings? Also, I have ordered a TRD RSB, will it come with bushings? Is there any rubber I should replace when installing the TRD RSB? Thanks, Dan

OK, I will check with a tire/suspension shop. Thanks. The control arms include bushings and ball joint, so it is an expensive job for just bad bushings. Bad lower control arm bushings are a typical ES failure and as with struts/mounts which cause front end clunk and rattling. I got new arms off ebay for half price of what the independent shops were going to charge. Lexus did a pre-purchase inspection for me and identified the strut mounts and control arm bushings as the problem. I decided to change the struts as well. Dan

wow Camlex, that is a great deal. Both of you guys are getting much better deals and it appears to be the labor part. But I contacted; Lexus, Toyota, used car dealer where I purchased the car and 3 independents. Toyota and 1 indy didn't get back to me. Of course, Lexus was really ridiculous. The others were high too so I decided to hunt for the parts to get the best price and then go with one of the 2 independents who were similar in price. They are not Toyota/Lexus specialist, just a good garage that works on anything. I really think the labor HIT is due to location. It is in the high rent district as were all of the places that I contacted. But I need the service to be done at a place very near the house for convenience. But it looks like I am paying a 20% premium. I think when I take the car in, I will voice my concern to see if they could watch the clock and readjust the price if they do the job faster then anticipated. I'll also use the angle of "future business" potential, which is true because I hope to establish a service shop for future needs. I am just moving to this area. So I'll have 10,300 purchase + 1400 suspension build. $11,700 is on the high side, but as long as nothing else shows up before the $$$ 90K service it will be a fair deal. Thanks for your thoughts. Dan

Good point, but I believe the KYBs will retain stock height and function. I think KYB makes the "factory" struts for the ES. I figured to save money and retain stock ride/height I would just reuse the stock (74K miles) springs. Hope that will work out OK. If not, I'll have to spring (pun intended) for some performance springs. Dan

Thanks for the welcome. I should have sent my email before purchasing and selecting the garage (labor). I am purchasing KYB struts and mounts from Tirerack. I decided to reuse the stock springs. Price for struts and mounts were $75 more then what you paid when shipping is considered. Alignment is the same at $65, but the install labor they are getting is $420, so $160 more then you paid. So grand total, I am getting this strut job for $235 more then you paid (that could have been new springs). I have done quite a bit of work looking for a good deal. I have save quite a bit of money by shopping around and buying my own parts. Looks like I could have done better. I think it has a lot to do with location. I need to get the work done in the "high rent" district and I think that really makes a difference. Oh yeah, did I mention, they have a free pickup and delivery service (free for $235). Oh well, appreciate your input. Actually maybe I am doing OK, when you consider also getting the lower control arms replaced for just under $300. Of course, the risk here is "aftermarket" ebay control arms??? It goes in the shop 2.17 so I'll keep the board posted. Dan

Hello everyone, Just joined the board, but used it when researching my car purchase. I recently purchased a 1997 ES300. From this board I was aware of suspension issues and sure enough mine was found to need suspension work during the pre-purchase inspection. Knowing the work was needed, I still bought the car which had 74K miles and was in cherry condition in all other areas for $10,300 I have decided to purchase the parts myself and take it to an indy for installation. This is what I have found. What do you think of the price, reasonable? Replace front struts and mounts (243 parts from tirerack) + (240 labor) Replace rear struts and mounts (285 parts from tirerack) + (240 labor) Note: purchased strut insulators and bumpers ($82 from irontoad) Replace front lower control arms (160 parts off ebay) + (170 labor) 4 wheel alignment (65) Total Parts = $770 Total Labor = $715 TOTAL JOB = $1485 I plan to get the job done the end of next week so your thoughts in advance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan