Exhaustgases

I got some awhile back at auto zone and they were pretty high cost. 35 for 2 is great.

You could buy a brand new car and have the same type of problems. Only difference is some times the warranty will cover it. And sometimes not. Then you have a "used to have one" with big payments. Lots of horror stories like that on the net. Especially major engine failures at very low miles.

The trac off means a code maybe set, and means its kind of a limp mode and having trac on is not a good idea as it could cause a problem so the ecu turns it off. You need to do like Randall says and see what OBD you have and get us the codes. You need a reader for the OBD2 and with OBD1 you just jumper some terminals and count the light pulses. The OBD2 readers are cheap now and can be used on any car from 1996 to now. You maybe dealing with the ecu capacitor issue as it could have set the Torque converter clutch to on, and being a random intermittent deal that could be it. Many have done the replacement them selves and parts are like $10 or so. Its just not fun removing the panels etc to remove the ecu or to desolder the caps. There is a good write up on clublexus.

I have a 90 that made a noise kinda like you describe, it almost sounded like a loose torque converter to flex plate deal ie bolts backing out. But then after listening to it better it was more like the trans pump cavatating, and since the fluid change it stopped, it was a quart low too. Yours could be over advance causing a ping too. What does it idle at? Something else that could cause it to die is a wire that has worn through and when the engine moves from the load (it torques over) it pulls the wire apart and shuts it off. When its running just try moving the wires by hand and see if that affects it. What happens when putting it in forward gears? When in park can you rev it up just fine? Can you read any codes? After re reading your posts, another thing it could be is the converter clutch is stuck in the engaged position. Does it feel like it wants to move the car and engages real hard? If you have ever driven a clutch car it would be like letting out the clutch real fast and kills the engine.

I thought I posted to this thread about a conversion kit?

If its one of the tail lights in the trunk lid then yes the panel inside has to come off. I only know the 90 to 94 well I think its the same on the 95 97's, then there are access holes for the nuts some have a rubber plug that you take out. I think it was an 8mm socket size nut. Theres a gasket that holds it pretty tight could leave 2 nuts kitty corner and tap on the socket and extension with a compo thane hammer to loosen the light assembly. If you need help getting the trunk panel out when I have more time I'll explain my way.

That is nice about Gen 1 easy ecu swaps. At least in the Gen1 the ECU also is the TCM all in one box, and it is special for Trac or no trac cars. landar is right about all the other ecu's in the car there are many. The one is engine control unit, and all the rest are electronic control units confusing nomenclature. Frank, also look at club Lexus for the ripple test, that is supposed to tell you if the caps are going bad, so maybe do that before diving into the ecu. But still order the caps to have them in hand when needed. Maybe you need to purchase a wrist strap, and read up on ESD, get a soldering iron and practice a bit, then read the tutorials and go for it. I think the hardest part is dealing with the interior stuff of the car, not goofing things up and removing the ecu. The rest is easy. When handling electronics you have to be very careful about electrostatic discharge, that is where you walk across a carpeted floor and when you touch some grounded metal object you get a spark. Even your bed blankets can do the same, it will ruin the micro circuits that work at very small voltages, those static voltages are in the thousands of volts and punch through the small molecular separation of the micro circuits.

Maybe get a used one and get it fixed, then just swap them, and you end up with a spare.

Will it start immediately after the stall? It could be that the torque converter clutch is not fully disengaging, either due to wear or from solenoid or valving problem. Does it feel like something is dragging the engine down when slowing from highway speeds? And yeah ecu / trans controller can cause it too by not turning off the lockup clutch. You would need to check to see whats happening with the power at the clutch control solenoid.

Is the stall problem consistent? Will it do it every time on the freeway for 20 minutes? Sounds heat related maybe ignition module or cps. Trans noise maybe worn pump or debris in the screen or air being sucked in, is the fluid in the right spot on the stick?

The reason the older ones look better is that is when auto manufactures knew how to make a proper roof, with out those horrible pinch weld seams that everyone uses now, that have plastic or rubber strips to fill the trench. or the goofy looking blister roofs ie the large radius deal . Way too much monkey see monkey do in the auto manufacturing business. It seems on outfit does something they all copy it. I think Lexus should do something different and make a 25 year anniversary edition of the LS400 make it look just like a gen 1, with all the options offered now days.

And more accurate if using the exact same pump at the gas station.

I would just love to have the manuals for the Older Gen 1 systems, that is the only way to be able to fix em. How do the audio guys get the info?

A clear epoxy would be a better bet, it won't peel off like the silicone. Since I have the same problems I am also thinking that the twist in light socket gaskets could leak too I'm sure water gets in and around that area even though its set back into the body. A lot of good those rubber vent hoses are, don't seem to vent good.

Landar I did that on the phone for some weather strip stuff and got some off. But the guys at the counter won't do it. I will have to go talk to the parts manager some time I guess.

Yeah I have done a search, I find a few but the one place the id of the parts is vague, and no pictures like sewell. Pretty stupid move of sewell doing what they did. And if you know of a good place and since you did answer this why not point out the place that maybe you would use? I've spent hours searching and even luck out and catch some (sarcastically speaking) nice computer bug that trashes my computer yeah with anti virus software too. So basically a search does not always return what your looking for. I really thought these sites were to offer help. I don't think I have ever suggested to someone to SEARCH for the help. That's fine, I have pretty much found that if I have to ask a question there are not many that can answer it. Sorry I'm a bit testy tonight its been a bad day.

Sewell used to have one. Also are there anyother lexus dealers that have an internet sales deal? Or at least except phone in orders and a decent price for club members?

Something isn't working right on this website, this is the only way its letting me type something here. can't use carriage return it self wraps. Its okay to remove this post after this problem is fixed. I was going to say ecu caps can cause the white smoke deal too. What does the smoke smell like? If its gas its the ecu I've seen that a few times.

It is not a good idea to let the jack metal contact that aluminum. Why? It is going to gouge it, and why is that bad? It leaves a stress riser a very nice place for a crack to start. Always have a jack with a rubber pad on it for that aluminum cross member. And again when metal touches the pinch weld jack points paint is going to be removed, and rust then starts there.

And just so you know I am not advocating just jumping in and replacing parts, the ideas are just to go there and look and check type of deal. The valve clearances need to be occasionally checked. I am not sure of the factory recommendation for it. In the old days it was a more frequent deal on mechanical type engines vs hydraulic lifters. On these LS400 engines they will go pretty high miles before needing attention. I would say 150,000 miles or maybe at the scheduled timing belt replacement. You remove the valve covers and use a feeler gage to check between the cam lobe and the follower ie the part that contacts the cam. Adjustment is accomplished by purchasing the correct size puck or metal disk that fits in a counter bore. You then remove the existing one and replace with the correct size one. This may help explain it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKEkOdQuJR4

So is it now running good?

I'm thinking most that don't have them, very likely had them removed. If you have an LS that is not yours from day one and doesn't have them then you have no way of knowing if it ever did have them or not. I suppose they could be ordered with out them, but everyone I have seen with them had the painted on stripes.

Where did you get the "Lexus connectors" ? Part number please. If it hasn't been replaced, the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, is something that can cause problems. Also when LS400 strangeness begins, the ECU capacitors are also suspect. Idle air control valve can cause some problems, and also check for manifold leaks. When did it start being bad? Right after the work? Also these engines have mechanical type followers meaning that the intake and exhaust clearances need to be checked. O2 sensors are suspect too. And per your codes the egr could be your manifold leak source, remove and clean it and make sure it works. I'd say first find and fix whats causing the codes, then go to the other items.

I don't think I have seen any Gen 1's without them. It gives them character.

I have 3 gen 1's they all have the stripes.