Exhaustgases

And that .225 mm is about .009 fractional. If it was a 6 point wrench or socket it probably would work, but still best to use 22 mm. And I had mentioned that in #4 post above. Did you strip the thread in the manifold? Or are you talking about stripping off the HEX of the sensor? If there is no hex left, then yes heat the area the sensor screws into and use some good vise grips on the old sensor. Or if you can get a small pipe wrench in there that would even work better. Hopefully its the passenger side your having problems with, the driver side is horrible for access to the o2 sensor and the plug.

Wow what happened to my post I did last night?

Dents mean much lower price. I will not pay stupid prices for messed up messes. For flawless paint and body I'd pay premium price. And LS I have looked at that has had any sort of body repair or repaint, I can spot it right away.

It may have to be from an upholstery shop. There maybe some still available from dealers you will have to check.

If you want the good ride then something that is a replacement for OEM.

It depends on everyone else bidding. It could go for 12k or it could go for under 2k. How bad do you want it? 44,000 miles ????? In perfect shape, if its a Lexus guy bidding it will go for 10k plus. That's my guess. It is almost a new car.

taninautoelectronix.com I think that's the site. They can fix the cluster if you can't.

Low miles means more money, but you never know with something like that. I'm with you the only black color on a car I like is the tires. In the sun it soaks up all the heat. One good thing is it doesn't show the dirt so much with interior that color. I like the grey and brown interior, not a fan of the light tan at all.

The same denso part number on either right or left it does not matter they are the same. I just did them about a week ago.

I got Denso, The O2 sensors you would most be concerned with are the up stream ones as in the pictures. They are in the exhaust manifold and just before the catylitic converter on both sides. You will first have to disconnect the electrical connector, then I used I think its a 22 mm box end of the wrench and loosened it. It turned by hand real easy.

The only way to convert to factory air would be to have one with it, I think buying the parts at a wrecking yard would be very prohibitive. To convert would require pretty much taking both cars apart, I would think complete interior removal to run the wire harness's and not sure where the air plumbing goes. I think it would be a huge project though. Maybe just keep it stock and find some other car to satisfy the desire for a change.

The reason the compressor first stopped was low refrigerant pressure, when it drops a pressure switch says NO clutch engage to the compressor clutch. The mistake was the conversion and the wrong oil in the system. Yeah not an easy fix.

I think this is an easy one, well not so to fix, just to figure out. I also have a converted to 134 one the compressor was seized when I got the car. The reason it happens is because the oil for 12 is not compatible with 134 so it ruins the compressor. I guess the right way to convert would be to completely clean the oil from the system and compressor. The compressor is likely freezing up slowly from lack of lubrication.

Funky wires added to the fuse box maybe the dealer install of the dealer optioned cell phone. Did your car ever have that? Strange problems after fixing something electrical? Did you disconnect the battery before fiddling with the cluster? The only electrical fixes that can be done with the battery still connected are the lights. If you didn't disconnect the battery then maybe one of the multiple ecu's for what ever isn't working right has been ruined.

So ball joints is all it needed? How many miles on it?

Did they say it was pretty far out?

I also have had issues from bad battery terminal connections. And usually always first mention to check them. This whole thread was all about alternators so I just figured you had the other stuff sorted out already.

Most local shops that do starter and alternator rebuilds, pretty much just take them apart and clean real good and put in new brushes and bearings and likely the regulators and diodes too, nothing else really wears out in them.

The best way to clean the alternator would be to take it apart. The carbon brushes will kind of soak the oil up and I suppose it is also a conductor too.

They are normally used to stop and slow down the car. And great spelling since most people don't know how to spell it. They use BREAKS, that is a restful type of deal.

Do Yamae's ecu test found on clublexus.

Is that the trunk lid hinge wire deal?

You can check the operation of the O2 sensors with a free digital multimeter, that is if you can find a coupon for harbor freight. And you flip open the test connector on the engine and test the OX points your looking for a fluctuating .1 to .9 or so volts.

It is obvious that the car likes you better, since it acts nice when you drive it. What year is it? The clusters are known for the electrolytic capacitors leaking and going bad and causing strange things like you just described.

Do not disconnect the battery till you see what code is set. Trac light always comes on when there is a fault code, Trac turns off when there is a problem. Get the code and lets fix it.