Exhaustgases

I came real close to try calling you and talking you into staying on. I say stay and do way more posts than you have in the past. I think you should slowly write your life story of the cars you have had and what you had to deal with working on all the cars that you have. Didn't you work as a mechanic? So what is the worse thing you ever had to work on?

Yeah I forgot about the clicking to make it bigger. I'm in the 60's too.

Thank you Billy

When your just sitting on your rear doing nothing why not just come here and post? Your the man we need all inputs on these forums. I've enjoyed looking at your old cars from the past. And don't want you to stop posting on the forums. "Out of date"? Whats that mean? All of us that own these old cars are out of date. We need out of date to keep these outa date cars running. This stuff will keep you sharp, they say you need to exercise those brain cells, and hey some of use are following close behind you in age, maybe even some got you beat. So stick around please.

Will the struts from a UCF20 work on UCF10 ?

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/86998-how-to-remove-center-console-tray-from-1994-ls400/ I can not read much of this at all the red color makes it almost impossible. Thanks.

I think brake light switch controls the park lock solenoid. And likely has something to do with ABS and Trac as well as cruise control. When running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be around 14 some volts.

And that Power steering fluid is Dexron automatic transmission fluid, you'd think it would help clean everything and not gum it up?

Thank you, but I can not read it.......... The color needs to be something that doesn't contrast with the back ground. Either white or black would be better than red. A bit larger font too. I really wish I could read it. Maybe show the lines and then the text out from the photo to the right hand side. I have not removed one yet and would like to know how to do it. Picture number 3 where are the clips? Is it just the one in the center? I wish I could do the edit and light the words up but won't work with a photo. Its irritating that I can not see all the words.

If you spend the money on the tools you have something to show for the $.

Well with all the outsourcing in all manufacturing OEM pretty much means nothing now. Now if you get NOS OEM that was made in Japan then you have something. Your best inexpensive bet is reman slash rebuilt OEM parts. And since items like calipers are a no brainer RandR deal, I wouldn't worry about it. When I get brake pads for cars I sometimes get the cheapy ones and on one non LS car I can get 50K miles out of them. I don't over do the brake pedal like most do.

Any auto parts place will likely have them and the cost will not even come close to the 1k mark. Check on rockauto

Warm doesn't always mean closed loop. On the newer obd2 cars its easier to figure out with a scan tool if it is or not, though some fault codes on them that turn on the cel will take it out of and keep it in open loop. I would think if the O2s were fluctuating then it would be in closed loop. I guess another way to know is if the timing is fixed and not advancing or retarding. And that is your next assignment, use a timing light and see if the timing is changing when it does the surging.

Hunting will be caused by the system trying to correct for something. Like too much air getting in and causing the idle to go up. Then the ecu says no, your supposed to be idling at this speed and corrects it. With out a good way to check the various signals its going to be a hit and miss deal. When its cold does it do this or just when it warms up.

RH rear cam plug, the most likely option is to remove the transmission mount and lower the rear of the engine down. Some times the simple things are the hardest. It may even involve removing the engine.

I have had that one off, and don't remember it was a few years ago. I would use a mirror and check to make sure there isn't a bolt going through a bracket in the rear towards the fire wall. To late to go study stuff right now.

Some times I'd like that having them fuel it up. Other times when I have to worry about them scratching something or dripping gas on the paint under the cover then I wouldn't like that. I wonder if there are any complaints about ruined paint? If not, that is probably why they still do that. If enough people hit em up with 20,000 dollar equivalent to factory paint jobs because of ruined paint maybe then the tune would change.

Unless its your thing, I would say no, it is better to have it done. And when a shop does it you have some sort of warranty. If you do it yourself and mess something up, its on you. Not so much on the gen 1's but I'm sure there are a lot of wantabe mechanics that have ruined their engines thinking they were going to save some big bucks. The only time it wouldn't pay to have it done is if the value of the car is low due to high miles and cosmetic condition and the state of the other mechanicals on it. Then its best to use that money for the extra parts that are needed. Then there are people that are real picky on how their car is worked on. Some so called professional mechanics shouldn't be working on other peoples cars, because of things they mess up by prying here hammering there etc etc. I know of cars messed up by mechanics, and sometimes when they do, it becomes a lying game with them. Air hammering with a chisel to loosen a nut, that was already loose and going through the unibody just isn't nice, I have seen it though.

So do these work similar to an LCD? Which is worse for them cold or hot? Is that how the Gen 1 rear view mirror inside the car works?

A sticky torque converter clutch could. Or somehow it gets some pressure past a leaking valve or partially stuck solenoid. Also there could be material flaking off the clutch and it gets partially wedged and allows the clutch to be slightly engaged. But that would have it doing the jerk all the time.

And check for cracks and looseness on all the parts associated with the brake calipers. That is not a normal problem. There is creaking when the squeaker rubs on the rotor, but that's a moving car and not with new pads.

If the car is static when this happens then likely your pads are worn and the fluid is following the master cylinder back, and pulling the caliper pistons with it. So does the pedal have lots of movement before you feel the brakes contacting? In the old days drum brakes would make that sort of noise when adjusted very loose. I have never heard disk brakes do that. The slide lugs on the pads could make noise and that's why some use a brake grease on them, and maybe even a very slight movement would cause them to creak a bit. Have you figured out which side is making the noise? It could also be that the caliper mounting bolts are loose and the application pressure is moving it ever so slightly to cause movement and the noise. Also look for cracks on everything down there. If the rotor was cracked it could creak I would think.

Absolutely no one ever wants to deal with someones UNPROFESSIONAL hard wire job, unless the car is destined for a junk yard when your ready to get rid of it. Do it right! If you don't want to pay 300 for the correct jumper wire, then make your own. Just don't cut out the original plugs, those clamp on wire T's just mess up the wire and some times develop a bad connection. But are better than cutting off the connector.

I know this is an old thread. But in the light of the millions of cars being recalled due to having a dangerous device that is known to harm the driver and fatalities have occurred from it, how does everyone feel about them now? Also I would like to hear more about that insurance adjuster that reached in the window and touched the steering wheel and set off the air bag. Was the key on or off? Scary stuff.

Heres a place to look up parts, I'm not sure how complete this parts book is though. It takes some practice to get to know how to navigate it all. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/productSearch.aspx?&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&ukey_trimlevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&modelYear=&ukey_category=0&ukey_driveline=0&isOnSale=0&searchTerm=