Exhaustgases

Yeah what a waste to screw it up. 10 years from now you could sell it for 10K or more. Some day you'll kick yourself. I agree with Billy. Get a ford Taurus and cut up the what ever on it.

Go to the Toyota tech site and look at the manuals for your car.

It would be nice to know what the dealer uses. And also all the independents around the country. Since it seems no one has SAE 90 on the shelf anymore then I would bet many are not using it. Besides it could be substituted and you would not know the difference unless you had some lab equipment to check it. If your a multimillion dollar outfit, and you said anything other than use what the manufacture says to use, then you open yourself up to big problems. If inventors and aftermarket manufactures just did what the manufacture suggested there would be no alternative auto parts manufacturing and aftermarket. Yes its best to do what the manufacture says, but then when they make something like 80W-90 or 75W-90 as the only oil on the self whats that tell you? When it is the only choice what can you do? And why would they make that oil so prevalent if they don't recommend using it? It is obvious by the statement to use the straight 90 weight that they know some cars and trucks need that, then why is it so hard to come by? The logic just doesn't add up. They obviously meant the multi grade to substitute for the straight grade. And besides the only thing the lower gradient will do that isn't good is leak easier at low temps, if there is a place to leak. The lube quality will be the same as the 90 weight if we are to believe what the additives do for viscosity at higher temps, because at the starting out temps the lube quality will be as same as straight 90 would be when its warmed up, and when warmed up supposedly the viscosity is exactly at what straight 90 would be at that operating temp. So that makes the multi grade the exact same as straight 90, only not so thick when cold. It will lube exactly the same as 90 but flow better in real cool conditions and that is better for the roller bearings. So that is likely the main reason for them substituting multi grade gear oil for differentials.

Just like you would use multi vis stuff in the engine, it will also work just fine using 80W-90 in the differential as long as its GL5, that ensures it has the EP lube for hypoid gear sets.

The ls cores all look like they are brass, as compared to the aluminum and plastic that most cars use now. They are also very pricey, I would think the old ones could be fixed easy though.

http://www.taninautoelectronix.com/Gauge-Cluster-Repair-s/1832.htm These guys have parts and will also repair what you have. So it is not impossible to get repair or parts.

Any shop can do that crooked stuff of saying they did it and really didn't touch it. Even the medical profession pads the bills. And not only can they lie, but goof things up too both on purpose and not caring and rushing the job. Too many stories on the net about good running cars coming out of a shop that run crappy and or the engine or transmission is destroyed. And the out fit that can mess things up good is auto glass installers the one that everyone trusts and has no idea what is going on.

I was just curious what years if any LS had more failures, I have read about a few and we all know that its probably easier to remove the engine and transmission than to change a heater core in these cars. Also I was wondering if the type of coolant played a role. People want to poo poo green prestone in an LS I have never had a problem using it in any vehicle. I have 2 90's that have it, I did the one years ago just not knowing as I wasn't really into the Lexus thing back then etc etc. and the other was acquired with green already in. And yes in due time its getting changed to correct stuff but makes no sense now till I do the other work, T belt etc.

What year cars have had most problems? What coolant was used? What kind of cooling system maintenance schedules were used? And are 25 year old cars on the brink?

I've always said if you want to keep a car nice, you have to keep other people away from it. Wow dealer removes head rests and lost em? Or did someone else need some? And yes isn't that something that people at the dealer that are suppose to know how to torque a bolt or what ever just grab the impact and hammer it down way past the proper torque. Maybe the manual should reflect the new values, when an impact is used.

You need some good ramps, they are very handy and a nice floor jack helps too since there is no way to use the normal jack stands at the jack points on these cars I have a couple of little oak pieces with a small slot to fit the pinch weld the cuts are only about 1 mm deep and then I put that on top of other blocks, that is my ls jack stand system. To use jack stands you need good hard points if you try to use them on the pinch weld they will bend or cut into the floor. Unless there is a special hard plastic or wood on the top of them designed for holding the pinch weld.

Marine supply places also have a hand vacuum pump with container that is designed to do what you say. I got one for around 80 they have cheaper ones too. This text box is not working right.

Only the newer redesigned ones in 95 will crash. Closer combustion chambers pistons etc.

Because I just don't like to see these cars messed up. Just makes them more difficult to find when everyone turns them in to junk yard queens.

Why? Waste of money for one, waste of time and waste of good LS parts that get ruined. Nothing gained, especially for a driver around town car. Ls is not a race car as far as I know, its a 4 door luxury type car fancy cars do not get raced. Look inside a Nascar some time and see the lack of fancy comforts.

And what was the cost? I thought the wife paid about 60 or so that was in 2013. Now the prices I see are crazy high, a starter is cheaper.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&SMENC=ISO-8859-1&SMLOCALE=US-EN&SMAUTHREASON=0&SMAGENTNAME=%24SM%24mT%252bGLraBu9CwUVnZg4mEDzB2kysT90hgbwsWgdZzNOc%253d&TARGET=%24SM%24https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F This is your cheapest route for service manual and other information, $15. can go a long way. Then there is over priced ebay.

We got one some years ago and I thought it was from rock auto? 90 LS400

For what year and where on cl? Found it. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls460-430-400-600h-classifieds/800186-dfw-area-members-free-manual.html

So what is gone? Manual for what and what kind of manual?

Just trace on that diagram back from B+ to the battery something in that path is not right. Ig switch is a suspect yeah so are wires and connectors, fuses, contacts in connectors for fuses, corrosion on wires to the connectors its just so many things I can be. It can be a night mare trying to find the problem. And the good thing about a diagram is it at least shows you where to start looking and trace back to.

The CEL bulb is burnt out then.

Go to the Toyota site and down load the manual. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCTGHurWA1c

Does stance it mean messing up the underside on high spots in the road? Why ruin the car? Just drive it as is, it is stanced just fine from the factory. Get a ford and slam it, not a Gen 1.

Yes I meant the key switch, and the security system disables the starter. You need to look into the wiring to the cam and crank sensors, and do the igniter test. Make sure the coils are plugged in etc. If the ecu doesn't get various signals it just shuts things down. Its not going to turn on fuel and spark till the inputs are satisfied. And for fuel and air the cps's are the main signal source. You didn't work on things with the battery still connected did you? Huge no no and will mess things up.