Exhaustgases

The key would be a dealer item. The remote would be too but its part of the key, and since yours has auto start etc, it is some aftermarket deal. So you will need to find out what the brand is for that system and get the new remote from them. I highly doubt that system was installed by even the dealer, because there is no reason too, the Lexus system works just fine. And after market system is good for a cheap fix because the dealer keys are pricey, and an alarm can be got for a fraction of the cost of the key.

It must have been legal to sell them. It should not be to sell new tires that are that old as that is very deceptive, and the price should reflect the age. Problem is they were selling them as new with new prices. An out of date tire should be 10 bucks. But you can't even get an outa date used tire for that at a wrecking yard. I would bet most all tires on cars and big trucks are out of date, I wonder how many folks have even checked new cars tires for date? There should be a requirement that there is no date code. But the actual date that is stamped on the tire or formed into it I should say. Why the constant deception with a date code?

Hello !!! read my post above................... And looky here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-OvSyLwVnw

I don't know if it is the same. And I find it hard to believe a 27mm size. I don't remember the size for sure either.

Tires expire? Here they expire when the tread is too thin. I heard a deal on the news many weeks ago about the tire places selling brand new tires that were made like 12 years ago, that is not good.

Wow third starter and such low miles. Cadillac's do the same thing on the Northstar I think. It is in a great place it stays warm and toasty, Its so easy to get to a guy on another web site says he can do it in an hour or so I think??? It was good engineering actually I think its to keep mechanics employed.

Yeah that positive terminal melted didn't it? You said you connected them and it ran? I'm wondering if that positive wire is pinched or partially shorted some place. If it was the alternator it should blow the fused link. Really need to check that main positive wire out good, also if it was a bad connection to begin with the current draw could heat it up so ??? Its just funny how you say it wanted to start as soon as the battery was connected. If so did the starter continue to run? It would have made some extra funny noise I'd think if it did. Need to really check out the ignition switch for working properly. Was it ever changed? Where are the top covers for the spark plug wires and timing belt? You don't want anything falling in there working on stuff. Bad connection current draw, if the contact area is very small and something like the starter pulls the amps it normally does it would heat up that area of the post, and that could be the cause, then of course the contact is even worse after that so even less current could cause smoking etc. I don't really know just brain storming with ideas. Since nothing else smoked meaning no wires melted and burned up its not likely there is a problem else where causing that. I suppose a person should check the trunk wires but for that to be an issue the power to them would need to be active, and it really isn't just starting the engine, unless a persons foot is on the brake pedal. I say get the battery connections good, and also the clamp on the wire fixed, hopefully who ever did the starter didn't mess up something and that connection is tight etc. If you get someone else to check it out, hope they have a video scope and can look at the starter connections. I would remove all fusible links, since I haven't dealt with the main link I'm not sure how to disconnect it. It will be in one of the feed out wires that would be seen at the right front corner of the fuse and relay box that is near the battery it is not in the box but out side it according to the manual and is likely in the sheath covering the wires coming out. (cars right and left when sitting in driver seat looking forward) With all those removed if you connect those wires to the battery and something happens then the problem is with the big power wire from the battery to the starter, or in the starter relay/solenoid. With all fusible links out of the circuit everything is off except for that big wire. There are 5 fusible links 4 in the box and the main that is outside the box, the 4 links are the ones closest to the engine, if you look inside the cover for that box there is a diagram telling what is what. And have the key off and in your hand when connecting and disconnecting the battery all doors unlocked and closed.

I would check the air filter. When taking it out wad some thin rags around stuff so you don't scratch the paint. It could also be over fueling from a stuck cold start injector. Idle air control may not be working, and even checking the throttle position sensor. And those battery cables could be causing all the problems. They need to be clean and have good tight contact. A mechanic should know that stuff. And you could be having the ECU capacitor issue as well.

If something on the battery terminals is smoking, pictures would be nice. So now it doesn't just turn when the battery is hooked up? Did it smoke with just connecting the battery? Or when it was being started and or just running?

Tanin auto electronics does the climate controls for about $99. or you can get the LCD from them for 49. They also sell parts for or fix the clusters too.

Engine would run okay cold at all speeds. Then at idle would want to die after warm up it would need at least 1300 or so RPM's to keep running and would not idle. No CEL set but had DTC 31 set. DTC = Diagnostic trouble code. I think the reason it ran good cold is because of open loop, and running on idle air control. The air meter checked good for resistance value, and what I found was a really bad plugged air filter. So far with not much running time it seems better. Makes sense since who knows what extra turbulence or lack there of the Karman vortex sensor is seeing with a plugged air filter. And note never ever try to clean these sensors. If you need to clean the airflow straightening screen that feeds the sensor, remove the sensor. It is easy to goof it up putting it back in, so when doing that remove the whole assembly so you can look in and see to make sure it fits in the lower counter bore in the aluminum body. The sensor has small holes that let the pulsations enter to vibrate a mirror so no chemicals or dirt allowed in them. And be careful there are a couple of orings under the top mount point.

Yeah I guess I don't help when I go after someone messing up an LS.

We've tried to help but you just disappeared.

I wish they would try to remember to come back, and let us know what has transpired. Did the help we all provided work? If not what was the fix ? Its just funny how after a few posts people just disappear never to be seen again. And some ask a question, then we all waste time trying to answer and the person with the problem never returns. These forums are really nice and handy, but it is very discouraging when the ones your helping never report back. There are so many that do this on all the forums.

Hmmm if it does run and starts goofing up when it warms up sounds like the engine coolant temp sensor, its fairly inexpensive and not to difficult to change.

Still will be more to come, first listen to VBdenney. So do you have the car at home or is it at a shop?

"fan to begin soinning with the key in ignition" I don't understand this. Did you mean (spinning)? So are you tell me that the mechanic installed and connected the battery with the key in the ignition? If so that is a huge no no. Never want the key in the ignition when disconnecting or connecting the battery. If he did do that was the key turned on? (I reread the first post and you said no key in ) So was the starter turning the engine? Just yes or no.... To keep running with no key as in your first post, the ignition switch is likely the culprit and stayed stuck on like the key was not turning it to the off position. That is the first thing to check. I don't have the time now but I will explain how you the non mechanic can check it before taking it some place else. Or does a shop still have it? I don't want to see them over charge for stuff it doesn't need, and will exceed the value of the car. You need to start by looking for a free DMM that is digital multi meter coupon for harbor freight, or spend the $6 for one.

The first stuff that happened sounded like bad battery connections or low battery voltage. No key in ignition and car ran on own? Did engine just turn by the starter or did it start normal? Do you have a remote start system? If just starter turned its like the solenoid is stuck on. And what year of car??????????? Its important. You did all the work yourself starter and all?

The original post with the RPM code is very likely a bad crank position sensor. Most heat related start problems are either that or igniter. And you need to check the codes and report back. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

The thing you need to watch out for if you remove and install the air filter like on that link, is to make sure the air filter is fully seated it can be difficult when you can't see it and not much clearance getting it in and out.

You need to remove some plastic covers, starting first with the ones near the fuel injectors, and the front one above the coil. Then the ones on the valve covers, that extend to cover the distributors and timing belt. The air filter and airmeter need to come out, and the resonator that connects to the throttle body. Use clean soft rags around the fender and air filter when removing the assembly maybe on under the fender bracket too so you don't scratch everything. All 10 mm hex head bolts pretty much, I used a 1/4 inch drive with a long extension, there are bolts at the front of those wire covers that are on the valve cover around the distributor. Go easy don't force anything, always look for missed bolts.

I wish I could be in on some of these installs and mods. I could figure out how to do it with out adding a single new hole on the car, or goofing anything up on the car to do it. One exception would be the console box like in the Lexus dealer phone install. There is always a way to build some kind of bracket or use some existing hole to accomplish the task.

Better find out when the timing belt was last done. The gliding stops if it breaks, and the engine will be trashed too. Also things like Transmission fluid change, differential oil etc.

As is Corvair, VW, and Subaru.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3903933#Post3903933 So I posted this question. I agree about the multi vis engine oil deal. If you want to used straight 90 in the diff then you also need to use straight 30 in your engine. You need to look through this linked site. And you really need to try to learn what multi viscosity oil is all about. I agree there are cases where straight viscosity is needed, that is old radial aircraft engines, and 2 cycle Detroit diesel engines. And some large industrial engines too. A Lexus rear end does not need it. What do they spec now for lexus cars? The gears are made the same as the older models, nothing is going to change with gears and materials. If the newer higher loaded gear sets can use multi viscosity so can the older one. Just call the oil company and ask an engineer. And look here for what Amsoil specs. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=1999+LEXUS+LS400+B