kmyose

Ok since I first found this site for this problem, I'll share... You'll need to remove the head lamps, to do this you will need to remove the black covers in front of the tires, behind the headlamp. Remove the one nut inside and one bolt outside (underhood) disconnect the wires and Voila! it's out. Now comes time to make some decisons. The goo holding the two lamp halves together is petrol based and is very, very nasty. See if you can find some 3M clear sealant (you know you have the right stuff when it smells like model glue) and apply along the seam (between the clear lens and black housing) after giving it a good cleaning. Let it sit overnight and reinstall. Remove the seals around the headlamp and keep the marker light out for a couple of days to let the vapor dry out (it may take some time). I've left the lamp seals off for over a week to get it dry. Ok I said something about a decision... Well the lens and housing can be separated and cleaned and worked. It's a huge pain. Place the lamp assy into the oven for 12 min at about 180-200 degrees, this will soften the goo enough to get the two halves apart. Now comes the hard part, cleaning all of that goo out. That you will have to figure out, but I can tell you from experience, heat helps a lot. Do this on a hot day, not January like myself. You can clean up the remains with GOOF OFF, don't try goo gone or other substitutes, they just ruin the plastic. Keep the stuff off of the lenses for the adjusting levels. Once you have both clean, just use a nice clear silicone to seal it. Watch out tho because the silicone will emit water vapors and fog the lens, surely causing you much distress after 6 hours of cleaning grey goo! Don't worry, keep the seals off of the lamps and remove the marker bulbs when you aren't driving it, and it will go away, eventually. Mine took about 3 weeks during the winter. Not a drop since... Good luck!

Pretty well known problem for Chrysler products also. I think I would take this car to a shop that has a BG transmission fluid machine. The machine will replace all of the fluid in the trans, including the converter. Out with the bad, in with the good. There are other machines that do the same too. I;m sure the Toyota dealer has one.

Hello, Just purchased 1/22/05. 92 model. Has 106K on it. It was Grandma's car when I bought it. It's super clean with grey interior. Now has 18x8.5 & 18x9.5 Hp evos, Eibachs, TRD sway bars, JIC strut brace, Tokico HPs, Injen intake, Borlas, Daizen bushings. I'm still wrangling over replacing the Nak with an Alpine, but I've never had a stock system sound so good. Also thinking 3" cat. Since I'm an ASE certified Master Tech (I hold 15 certs), I never take it anywhere but my garage (Ok wheel alignments and tint I don't do). This is my 3rd Toyota and first luxury car. I'm a former Vette freak, and I don't see going back anytime soon. I like driving a car that doesn't fall apart around you!

This is the toyota site for technical info. All of this info is stored in PDF form. I used to work at Alldata, and this is where they get it. $10 for 1 days access, $50 for a month. I dl'ed my whole manual set in 1 hour. They also have other docs available, like sales pre-info. All Toyota products BTW, Check it out... https://techinfo.toyota.com/

Ok this should apply to any car with a battery drain... Disconnect a battery cable. Hook a 12v test light between the cable and post, if the the light glows brightly, you have a drain. Point of note: the SCs use a "soft" dome light circuit, which slowly shuts down the dome after you close the door. Make sure the door is closed BEFORE you do this or you'll get a false reading. Another thing to point out is the computer will attempt to juice up as well, this will cause the test light to glow brightly for a second then go off, which is normal. SO now the light is on with the door shut and it's been over a couple seconds. Now start pulling fuses out, one at a time and see if the light goes out. If you need to check fuses inside, pull the dome light fuse, so you don't get a false read. When it does, check that circuit for a component on. Most common drains? Glove box light on, stuck relay, a courtesy light that is on that can't be seen in the day. Alternators can cause a drain, but it's remote. Check that trunk light... First things first... 1. What kind of sound does it make when you turn the key? 2. Did you check for corrosion on battery posts and terminals? Are they clean? 3. Is your battery dead? Turn on your headlights. Do they turn on? Interior lights work? ← Thanks for responding. 1. The cars sounds terrific. The same way as when I purchased it a few years ago. 2. There is no corrosion. Car looks spanking brand new - only 45k miles on the car. It runs better than a new car. Only goes dead if I don't crank it "every" day. On the 3rd day, it is dead until I jump it off. I have not taken to a dealer yet...but took to Sears and they put it on a machine and said everything checked out. I even got a new battery again... same thing happened. 3. No the battery is not dead. I purchased a new battery a while back because it was doing the same thing with the previous battery. The headlights, interior lights and everything works. Any more ideas or suggestions. ← ← When you say really good shop, should Sears have been able to tell me because they stated they could not find anything. When you say drain on the battery, does that mean the battery is bad. I am so frustrated because I have taken it so many times. What's an example of what could be draining the battery? Corliss ←

Ok so chalk me up on this one. I put a set of Eibachs in my 400 2 weeks ago, I have clunking too. I'm glad you guys mentioned it, because I thought I was going crazy! I thought I left something loose...