foolproofdog5

The ECU is only supposed to help the Fuel Pump. So, I would check the fuel pressure on the fuel pump first. Then I would replace the fuel filter (right in front of left rear tire on the underside of vehicle.) If all is well there I would check the fuel pressure regulator--it may be wide open--allowing the /ECU to run all the time. If you are going to replace the fuel filter-E-Mail me first! I had one bad time replacing mine! Now , I know the tips I got from Lexus mechanics I will pass to you! Good Luck! By the way, The ECU's don't like water or moisture. My left driver's window leaked and caused mine to go out. I thought it was my fuel pump! Replaced the fuel pump 2 times! $295.00 each! I replaced with new because it is in the gas tank! By-the-way--there is access hole behind rear seat to get to fuel pump--you do not have to remove fuel tank from trunk!! My '92 has 180K and was working great until the water got in there.

First of all, remove both parts of back seat. Then, remove the trim panel cover under the rear window behind the driver's seat. Take your time and remove bolts or push -in-tabs carefully so you don't break anything! You want to be able to re-use them. If you do break them, any local O'Reillys or Autozone will have some. Now-VERY IMPORTANT- disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable. Then, let's insure that the Fuel Pump Controller(Module or ECU) is your problem. Take a 10 M wrench or socket and ratchet and remove the bolt holding the ECU bracket to the body of the car just under the window. Then disconnect the wire harness(take your time and push in on the little !/4" square tab and wiggle it apart) Now look at the wires--there is 1 wire that is green and 1 wire that is combination red/black.(These wires should be on one end and be larger diameter than the other wires. Now, take a piece of insulated wire the sane guage as those 2 wires and jump from the green wire to the combination red/black wire. Now, reconnect the Negative battery cable. Now, if possible, have a friend keep an eye on the jumper wire while you try to start the car. If it starts up and there is no arcing where you jumped the wire, you done good.. Now, turn off the key, take a 6"-8" piece of electrical tape and tape the jumper wire so it won't come out. Now, drive the car for a few days and see if that fixes the problem. If so, get on E-Bay and find a good used one that is out of a '98,'99' or 2000 Lexus SC 300.(A new one is about $385.00. Installing is just reverse of removal. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AGAIN. ALSO, PEOPLE MEAN WELL SOMETIMES, BUT DON'T DO THAT PERMANENT BYPASS STUFF! THE ECU IS IN THERE FOR A PURPOSE--IF YOU BYPASS IT, THE FUEL PUMP RUNS ON HIGH ALL THE TIME AND WEARS OUT! THEY COST ABOUT $295.00. I have a 92 Lexus SC 300 that has been giving me fits and by talking to Lexus mechanics at the dealership I learned how to do this, so I am passing it on to you and whoever has the same problem! I also have a 1991 LS 400 4 door Deluxe that I am having tail-light problems with, so if anybody reading this knows anything about that E-Mail me at charliehesterjr@att.net. Good Luck! Oh, by-the-way, looks like I have found me an ECU on E-Bay for about $35.00 including shipping!

Hey, jeffls400, I agree totally about the absurd costs! My wife's car is a 1991 Lexus LS 400 that I bought 6 years ago for $2,400. She went shopping today and when she came out, the car would not start. So, I will get out my Ohm Meter and disband one thing at a time. I am almost positive it is the Solenoid or the Starter Relay Switch. While I am under there I am going to pull the AC Compressor and rebuild it! Never done one, but using the Forums I find on here, I can do anything! Chilton's and Hayne's do not publish a Manual for Lexus. You have to go to the Dealer and they cost about $275.00. I used to hang around the Pits at Tampa Speedway and they taught me a lot about Auto Mechanics. I have already pulled the Steering Rack & Pinion and rebuilt it! Almost lost my Religion doing that task! Anyway, Good Luck--and by the way--If you do the Struts yourself--make sure you use the proper tools and have a friend hang out with you! Strut removal and replacement is about a level 10 job and people have got killed trying to DIY! So, be very careful my friend!

I have a 1991 Lexus LS 400 that I need an idea or ideas on how to remove the Camshaft bolts so I can replace the seals. I have already replaced the Crankshaft seal, water pump, Timing Belt, both left and right timing belt wheels, fan bracket, alternator, power steering pump, Rack & Pinion w/solenoid. I paid $2,400 for the car 5 years ago and have not had one thing go wrong until now. I got all my parts from "Parts Geek.Com and Steering Parts.Com and it only cost me about $600.00. I also have a 1992 SC 300 Coupe. I love both cars. I enjoy DIY projects and especially when I get to tear everything down, clean all the parts and replace what is needed and hear them purr like a new kitten! I think I am going to have to remove the Valve covers and hold the Camshafts with a pair of locking pliers because these suckers are torqued on real tight, too! Any ideas on how to remove the Camshaft bolts??

Unplug the coil wires from both Distributors! Use a 3/4" Breaker Bar, a 6 point, 22M, Impact wrench socket. Put the socket on the bolt and lay the end of the Breaker Bar against the frame on the left side(Driver side) or on the ground. Make sure no one is standing in front of car looking under hood! Bump the ignition key real quick and let it go! It will break the bolt loose for you. Also, to make it real easy to get the Timing Belt on, remove the 2-12M bolts holding the Timing Belt tensioner on and remove it! Re-install it after you have Timing Belt on. Also, I found an Tutorial at--http://www.lesls/com/timingbeltreplacement//. Don't go jamming anything up into the flywheel. The teeth are metal alloy and you could chip/break a tooth or crack the bell-housing. That bolt is torqued on at about 190 foot pounds!