Greg5OH

Yesterday the car beeped at me 4 seperate times that my washer fluid is low..i unplugged the sensor last year because the float was sunk..what the heck? Why does it tell me its low when the sensor ant ven connwcted?

Sorry, disnt mean offence. I know you guys are full of knowledge, just seems yall always hate on lowered cars lol. will scan for codes and inspect the ecu caps at some point

Oh ease up ya grump. The harness has been fixed.

the climate control decided to stop aknowledging the interior temp ithink. i set it to 18 and ita still pumping hot air. try to keep jusy the front defeoster on and it gets too hot even eith fan off. Put it to auto, it takes the fan speed to max and im sweating buckets-what the hell! Its worked fine last week! And then the engine bucking. while crusing or lightly acceleratong it will buck HARD. Can see rpm dip down a few hundred, then resumea normal operation. ita pretty violent feeling. can be on a perfectly smooth road and will still do it. Its random, somwthimea will do it a few times in a few mins, sometimes once an hour. Could it be a failing tps? im going to use my fathers good multimeter to do the ripple test-see of its the ecu caps

ahh yes thats perfect! thanks!

i know it worked fine before, even when the car was slammed by the previous owner. cutoff was mint. I noticed the rear arm on passenger side which i assume controls level of the right beam was actually broken, but playing with the arm didnt lead to changing of the postion of the headlight. btw, i bougth some toe plates to use to align my toe. 35$ shipped, have to do it with a buddy. Im in 1mm front and rear. steering wheel straightened out too. Goign to test drive tonight. found reference point underneath the car, outer tie rod to inner tie rod hard points, which lets me know how much i need to go in or out on both sides, to prevent crab walkign by adjsuting both sides so the measured reference point distance is equal. I had to turn the right tierod almost a half turn more than the left one to be straight ahead. Well see how it actually rides tonight .

thats too low for charging. my battery is at 12.7 with car off. With vehicle running you should be around 13.6-14volts.

1) how do I align the headlights on a 2000 ls400? Few years ago the cutoff was super, but now the passenger one seems to be up and out. I dont think the auto headlight leveling is working properly. THey do raise up when you fire up the car however. 2) What are the factory toe settings for a 2000 LS400? In mm or inches, not degrees please.

maybe it goes into a limp mode when it senses low PS fluid, so you dont spin the pump too fast with low/no oil in it to minimize damage ?

yup i dun did it. common issue on slammed LS, GS, SC tucking the harness up behind the upper pinch weld for now, away from the tire. Evnetually Im going to reroute the harness inside the upper fender boxed in area. So its totally shielded from anything.

From riding an inch higher than this height at 70 mph

found 4 wires that were cut thru. all thin ones, solid red, solid purple, red with yellow stripe, red with black stripe. Put it all together, my domelights and keyless works!

lol sorry landar, thansk for all the input so far guys! im not going to sit back till i hook those wires back up...kind of doubting my issues are caused by this, but hey they gotta be fixed anyway. the car rides LOW. exhaust was tucked up a few inches to prevent rubbing, roll center adjusters, etc. its on air, but i like to ride as low as possible

bad pic but you get the idea i checked the voltage, both the red and purple have 12 volts from wire running towards front of the car, or fuse box/distribution block. nothing on the other side. going to do a quick fix on those and see if i can tuck the harness awya a little more on sunday night, till I have time to make an extended harness and route it the way I want it.

i found a few interesting things today. 1) in the driver fender, in that big harness, two wires were corroded and disconnected. a very thin red one and a purple one. obviously need to reconnect those to look further. 2) There is a grey wire that was ripped from somewhere up in the dash. Schematics are showing it to go to body ecu and linked with radio number 2 fuse. So need to find wher eexactly it came out of and put it back. The abs motor randomly fixed itself, but then i undid battery, put it back then it started doing its thing again. But now its fine again... busy this weekend but hopefully get those wires reconnected on sunday night. Looks like im goign to have to move that whole harness out of the way, the original room was rubber thru and the PO had put a little plastic shield around it.

could be, and also my greatest fear. But that whole domelight, radio, keyless are all on one circuit, and keyless has its own computer, and thats out as well. Dont think the ABS computer would make the keyless computer turn on/off though?

yes aftermarket air ride and radio. Thsi is moe than just a loose wire i think. Well-the radio-light circuit could be a loose wire, but that does not explain the abs motor spazzing out. WHen it spazzes is does not affect the dome light or that whole circuit in anyway. They jsut remain off. im keeping the dome lights turned "on" so if something flickers i will know instantly.

tonight im going to check the brake fluid level switch as it is directly tied to the abs motor. Also will check the voltage from fusbile link to pin 1 on the ABS motor relay. I suspect it will simply give me fluttering voltage and will basicaly tell me nothing that i dont already know, that something is triggering the abs motor, and all keyless, garage opener, dome lights etc dont work. Im also going to find out exactly where my aftermarket air ride controller is getting its power from. I was assuming 12v cig lightrer since it took its place, but the bundle of wires runs somewhere back along trans tunnel and dissapears under the carpet. Cant see it from under the little center console tray when I remove it. Also need to locate J9 connection. But i dont think thats the issue either, ebcase looking from the post i provided the pic, vanity lights, moon roof have nothing to do with connector J9. and ground IG is solid and fine.

will the 50110 work in place of the 50111?

dangit, they got alot of 50110 but no 50111s :(

you sure its not 89541? the part for 3k it shows on toyodiy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-1999-LEXUS-GS400-GS-400-ABS-COMPUTER-TRC-VSC-/171034681919?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d276223f&vxp=mtr will thsi work for my 2000 ls 400?

unplugged the ignition switch over lunch, and abs is not activating. Ign switch tested fine though. \the plot thickens lol

checked and tested the ignition switch, all was fien there. the hunt continues. Im leaning towards it beign a bad VSC and ABS ecu. and i see the circuits with keyless, garage door opener, radio, dome lights are all tied together, adn share grounds with the ecu and who knows where else they go...but could a bad ecu also take out that whole circuit?

thanks landar. Yes i get very frustrated easily with electrical. Today i checked the continuity at the ignition switch as outlined by the wiring manual. Didnt get to anything else. Abs pump still freaks out by itself. goes away when relay is pulled.