1sikgs

You will not notice much difference. I run the same tire size during the winter months.

yeah. i've had this problem before also. like smooth1 said, check to make sure the e-brake is disengaged. if it is, you'll have to tap it off with a hammer.

They are not ceramic...they are semi mettalic actually they are ceramic. i checked

the oe pads are ceramic. stick with those

there could be a problem with your a/c compressor. if it is bad then it could be drawing to much current when you turn it on. also the clutch on the compressor could be bad. if that is makeing the belt drag then it is not spinning the alternator pulley as fast as it should and therefore the alternator is not putting out as much current as is should.

i'm not exactly sure what happens either, but the owners manual recommends running you a/c even in the winter months just to keep the system functioning properly

since the guage isn't working, the coolant temp sensure is the most likely culprit. it is fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. this will fix the guage problem and the fan problem. as for the radiator just replace it.

this has been covered before. but to help out, you have to remove the seat first. just pull the seat bottom up to release it from the clips. it's a little hard but pull and it will come out. next there are a few bolts and the bottom and at the top. the bottom bolts are easy to see. the others are behind the head rest. remove the head rest and there is a flap. the bolts are behind those flaps. next remove the pillar covers. they are just held in with clips. then the rear deck cover comes off. there is a black mat covering the bolts holding the sob in. once you remove the mat, just take out the bolts and replace the sub. reverse the process to reinstall

do a search. i had the same questions you had and found a thread covering this already. there is only one amp in the passenger side kick panel. find the thread and you will learn how to bypass the factory amp

it seems as though you just need to replace the starter.

use a synthtic gear oil. it makes a big difference. 75w90 or 80w90 is what you should use

if all you want it shocks then just search the net. they're like $80 or so each. that's roughly $240. install shouldn't be more than 3 hours. most shops charge $90/hour. at 3 hours that $270. $240 + $270 = $510.

i agree with 92lex on the tire pull. i was having the same problem just two weeks ago and i was told by my buddy at the wheel shop to rotate the wheels. after doing the rotation the pull went away. if this does not correct you're problem then i would say that there is another problem having to do with the suspension. check all the bushing and ball joints.

if you struts are original then i believe it is definitely time to change them. the second generation also seem to have lower ball joint issues. you should check them out too

i suggest you check all the bushings. especially the sway bar bushings. also you should check your alignment to make sure nothing is off.

pros: car will be quicker and you will feel a little more torque cons: engine will rev a little higher and you will lose just a tad in gas mileage

sorry. i gave you the wrong site. i meant to put l-tunedparts.com. i haven't been on the site in a while, but they had it last time i checked.

lextasy.com

okay now I had my car towed to a mechanic and when I get there the car started up after a couple of cranks and when it did alot of white smoke came out the tail pipes the mechanic said that was becauseall the times that I tried to start it all the gas got clogged up now it is releasing nothing to worry about.I then got home and everything was okay.3 days later I didn't drive the car for 2 days because I had the winshield replaced.but today I got in it warmed it up took it out for a ride and when I got to the light it died out.I put it in park and it started right up.I got to another light and it did the same thing.What can be the problem does anyone know okay, well, i guess it's not a battery problem. what you should do is go back to the mechanic and see if he can hook up your car to a diagnostic machine. with the proper equipment he should be able to tell you if any of the cylinders is lacking fuel delivery. the engine check light does not need to be on for the mechanic to check this. other than that it's all trial and error.

odds are you're alternator is bad. the battery is mainly there to supply power to start the car. once the car is on the alternator take over to supply power to all the electronics and to recharge the battery. if the alternator goes bad, the car will then only run if the battery is good. my suggestion to you would be to check and make sure the battery is good or not. if it is still good then there might be another issue. if it is not good, then also get the alternator checked out. if you replace the battery without getting a new alternator, then that battery will drain in a matter of days.

just stay with what is recommended

things happen. there could have been a small electrical surge. no matter the problems fixed.

you should definitely take a look at the fuses. there are times that a single fuse can control more than one operation. this could mean that the same fuse that is keeping your car from shifting is causing the problem with the center console

Look through your fuses. I have had this problem before with another car of mine. There is a fuse that controls the neutral safety switch. If that fuse if broken you will not be able to shift out of park. If there is still a problem after that, then the neutral safety switch might be bad.

i'm pretty sure there are many posts about this already on here. but imo i would look at the swift racing