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myesismybaby

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Everything posted by myesismybaby

  1. Hi, welcome to the group! In order to upgrade to the CD changer in your car, you would have to install not only a new head unit (I'm assuming you want to keep the stock stereo system). You could find a new head unit on eBay to fit your car, but once that's installed, you'll have to install wiring for the 6 disc changer that mounts in the trunk. Really, you have to upgrade the whole sound system, and it won't be cheap or easy if you want everything to remain stock. Download the factory service manual pinned at the top of this forum for more info about the CD changer, etc. An extra key is around $50 for one without a remote. With a remote, you're looking at closer to $300 to $400 for a two key set with corresponding chip to be installed by the Lexus dealer. You can't program new remote keys, because each key set has a corresponding chip. Call the parts department at your local Lexus dealer for information about new keys. The security system on your car is not simply keyless entry. The alarm will go off if any door is unlocked from the inside of the car while the system is set (i.e. someone breaks the window and unlocks the door, or unlocks it from between the outside of the door and window). Information about the security system and how it works can be found in your user manual. Good luck, and congratulations on your new Lexus!
  2. Check the the hose that connects the air cleaner assembly and your throttle body for cracks. If it's cracked, tape it up until you can buy a new hose.
  3. Don't let the Lexus dealer charge you that to do your major service. Sure, it most likely is due (or overdue for those things), but that is almost the value of the car! Get some quotes on the same services from your local Toyota dealer. Not only do they know the 1MZ-FE engine, but their labor rate might be half that of the Lexus dealer's. Also, you could call an indy mechanic, if there are any Toyota mechanics in your area that you know of and trust. Unfortunately, a timing belt is a pretty complicated job, which I would sooner leave to the pros. A rear main seal is a much more complicated job, and you would be in over your head if you tried to do it yourself. Go quote searching, and see what else you can come up with.
  4. Hi everybody, I just bought a 1994 ES300 with 120k on it. Everything appears in great condition with it, and it is in great mechanical condition. I know it had a 60k service at Lexus of Portland, but since then I have no record of service. I'm taking it to my Toyota dealer this weekend to have it caught up on its maintenance. Since my Lexus dealer had cheaper parts I ordered the following from them and will take them to the Toyota dealer for the labor: Timing Belt Water Pump Spark Plugs PCV Valve Oil & Air Filter Power Steering Belt Alternator Belt TOTAL $325 I will have the Toyota dealer tune it up, change timing belt & other belts, change water pump, and any seals behind the timing cover that are leaking. The transmission was recently flushed by the previous owner at a Jiffy Lube type place. The Toyota dealer wants $520 for all the labor. Also, recently I've had issues with the car dying after periods of long idle such as driving in slow, heavy freeway traffic jams, or waiting in line for an emmissions check for 15 minutes with the car idling. If the engine starts to run rough I can rev it up for a couple seconds and "clear it out". Why is the car dying after long idle times? I ran a bottle of Chevron injector cleaner with a full tank of Chevron Supreme, and will fill it again with that combo before driving long distance this weekend. Here are my questions: #1 Should I have the tranny flushed again with Toyota fluid even though the fluid is clean and pink? #2 Should I have anything else changed while the dealer has the timing belt off? #3 What else should I mention to the Toyota dealer to look at or do while I have this service done? #4 I will mention to the dealer my die out problem, but will the tune up likely clear that up? Should I have them examine the IACV, MAF, Throttle Body? I want to make sure I get everything done that I should as I am going to school in Seattle and going home to Portland this weekend to have my service done. I want to make sure I take care of anything that could have been neglected while I'm in for such a big time job. Thanks for your input!
  5. Just an update...found a crack in the hose from the air cleaner box to the engine. Put some electrical tape over it to fix it temporarily until I can get a new one. Still need to fix my CEL. I broke a VSV today while replacing my vacuum hoses. Thanks for all the advice...still need that EGR though. Idle problem gone.
  6. Hello, I'm a fairly new member who recently bought a '92 ES300 for $4500. It is a very nice car with some mechanical issues and unfortunately no service records. It seemed to be a solid car when I test drove it, and I believe it still is, but it's been neglected I think for about 35k and I really don't know what the history is. Here is what I've had done so far: Toyo Proxes TPT 205/65/R15 Tires Mounted/Balanced on Stock Rims Both Drive Axles Replaced (bad CV joints clicked when turning) Four-Wheel Alignment Fuel Filter/Air Filter/PCV Valve Valve Cover Gaskets Replaced (leaking onto exhaust causing smell) Intake Plenum Gasket Replaced (with Valve Covers) Front Motor Mount and Torque Strut Replaced Rear Brake Job Including Rotor Machining (to fix throbbing) However, I have two problems with the car still that may or may not be related. Engine sometimes idles so rough/low that it dies at stop signs. This has only happened once and it was when the car was cold today after I picked it up from the brake job. The check engine light is on throwing a code 71 for EGR failure. The car hasn't stalled again today, yet still idles rough and seems as though it might die. When I drive there are no problems. The CEL comes and goes...why? If my EGR is completely failed and letting exhaust into the intake while idling is it possible it could be starving the engine for air? My idle is irregular and rough. I do not know when this car had a tune up last. It's possible that it's never been done although unlikely with 110k on it. A friend of mine has suggested that first I must replace the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and maybe even wires. My question is...could the EGR valve be the cause of a stalled engine at a stop sign? Does the EGR valve really have the ability to put that much exhaust back into the engine? Or am I dealing with a tune up issue? Should I tune the car up first before putting money into diagnosing and fixing the EGR problem? Also, when I start the car it seems to rev up to just above 2,000rpm for a split second like with a surge of fuel to the engine which shouldn't be there. This only happens when the engine is warm. Any insight?
  7. When I start my ES and it's cold outside it cranks for too long before it turns out. I used to have a V6 Camry of this vintage that started like a charm no matter what the weather. This isn't the only starting abnormality though. When I start the car warm it revs up above 2000 rpm when it turns over. Just for a split second though the engine revs and comes back down and only when it's warm. Both of these things are accompanied by a slighty rough idle. Just a tune up needed?
  8. Will having my tranny power flushed/filter changed be a good thing to do?
  9. I have a '92 ES that I just bought from a private party with 110k. It needs work like gaskets in the engine (rear valve cover dripping on exhaust causing smell), new remote keys ($390 from Lexus including new chip for Keyless System), two CV joints, and possibly something transmission related. When I accelerate then let off the gas before it shifts to second gear (usually in a parking lot or something) or any other time it shifts without being asked for power it shifts with a clunk. When I jump on it and accelerate hard the shifts are perfect. Also, when I take my foot on and off the accelerator on the freeway or at about 40mph or higher I feel a clunk as a give it gas or remove my foot. Why would I feel a clunk only when I'm not requesting power from the car or when I'm accelerating/decelerating on the freeway??? Also, is there any cheaper way to get new remote keys besides going through the dealership?
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