TeamBigShot

No, cannot be done. Nor can you use the stock CD changer or amp. It's all or none, Got to do what's called an amp bypass in order to utilize the stock speakers still. Now that I reread what you posted haha you've got an idea of what's going on I believe yes. And in order to turn the amp on well the stock head unit is the only thing that can send the signal in order to do so.

No, cannot be done. Nor can you use the stock CD changer or or amp. It's all or none, Got to do what's called an amp bypass in order to utilize the stock speakers still.

Unless they messed up on the job by all means they should be good for for at least 90,000 miles that's Bs. Most people don't change them until the cars hit 100k+, just take off your from engine top cover, the one that's covering the cam pulleys and check it out, is there oil everywhere? It can and most likely is the vvti pulley not the cam seals if they just got replaced... If it's coming from the vvti pulley well that doesn't need to be replaced, there's a simple oring on the inside that goes bad, need to very easily, but carefully disassemble it, putting hash marks everywhere even know it only assembles in one way, but google "JeffTsai (I believe it's spelled) VVTi cam pulley inner oring" you'll find the link he sells them, watch his video.

keep swapping theres 4 total.. two each side..

jesus are you kidding me? wow thats a new one for the books honestly... but ha is there piston damage? lol you serious? there is no hope, guaranteed everything mated when that catastrophe happened... things toast for sure..

ahh sorry man its not the ML its pioneer

Hey guys sorry if that's a little misleading, I'm parting out the entire car, not just the interior, anything you'd like that I've still got!

2000 Lexus Gs300 platinum edition SILVER WITH GRAY interior, Whats up guys, just wanted to give everyone the opportunity to possibly grab some parts you may need before i sling this thing to the retirement yard. It has 97,000 miles on her I believe, it could have even been 93,000 and im just mistaken. Anyhow, car was totaled in the rear end, driver spun out in the rain hitting the rear to the center divider. Its Silver with the Gray interior. Lots have been removed and sold from the body, but feel free to ask for whatever you may need, hopefully ill be able to help you out. Lots of the enterior is available if not most! If you would like pictures of anything, feel free to ask and I will take as many as youd like k. car is straight from the rear doors forward but I think the rear passenger door may have verrrrrry small damage at the corner, anyhow everything is for very cheap, def. worth your while. Interior is in great condition. Local pick ups welcome, and I will ship anything youd like as well. Feel free to send me a msg any time, or text me which would be the quickest form of communication k. (818)402-two three, zero three. thanks guys.

Can I ask why you'd want that when you could/should just get a double din that will not only out perform your stock one, but also give you a world of additional options that you will def.grow to appreciate. There cheap. Can easily be installed to look OEM, and most if not all come standard with GPS anyhow, you don't have to use it though lol...

Yea thats if you choose to run Hypoid oil, which is rarely even used or recommended by Lexus. Lexus runs "Toyota Genuine Differential SYNTHETIC gear oil API GL-5, SAE 75W-90" in most of all there cars now because its unparalleled protection yet at a lighter weight, reducing warm up time, and "supposedly" increasing gas mileage, with far superior protection. If you notice now, most of the products seen are 75W-90 (synthetic). Even know 75W and 80W differ very slightly, its the characteristics of Synthetic that are paramount when comparing and choosing. The first number, with the W next to it (75 vs. 80) is the kinematic viscosity, like I mentioned is the "thickness" of the oil shall we say. 75W being slightly thinner than 80W, which directly correlates to the warm-up time of the oil. It's a linear relationship. The thinner the oil, the faster it can get to operating temperature. The other positive linear correlation is: the higher the kinematic viscosity, the higher the protection. But the difference in viscosity is so minute that you will not be able to find differences between the two without specialized test equipment. Again, its the properties of the Synthetic oil that are prime to the choice of which to run now.. Synthetic 75W-90.... use it. I personally like Royal purple, but thats a whole nother can of worms. and btw, yea if you do a proper diff. oil change, proper meaning getting most of what is in there out, you will use sliiiightly under 2qt.'s or should.

yep... its not a part of the engine harness, and indeed is different. just figure out how it is done on the 95's, and get your hands on the wiring thats not incorporated in the 92's engine harness. shouldnt be a prob. EDIT* I guess dissregard the fear of frying stuff but im not sure, read through this thread i foubnd, may put you in the right direction as far as options go. post your results k! http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?s=ce97b70c86716ee39ed66d633b9f1070&t=9514&page=2

nice thata boy, I was just going to say I dont see what the issue is if your running the 1995 ecu, now if you kept the old ecu that would bne a different story, but even then Im not sure im not a sc guy, is it the same gen? as for the alternator.... do you know why its not there? I dont understand that, has it been removed from the new wire harness you used? does it look like it? so your telling me theres nothing plugged ito the voltage reg. as of right now, nor IS there, anything to plug into it... right? well first off dont be running the car without it... you could fry a lot of *BLEEP* man.. you take those rpm's up and i dont see why you wouldnt so careful. could you take the one off your old harness? look into how its incorporated into the harness to begin with thats where id start. ill take a look.

UPDATE! Well after a bit if TLC, y'all ready to see what I transformed these dam wheels into!! Ladies and gentleman, feast your eyes ;) (Was Def. A lot of work, but was well worth it.) they look almost new. Minus the curb rashes.. I didn't do but its alright... Was given the wheels any how def. Can't complain! Feed back is welcome! If you have questions, feel free to ask k. BTW! NO PAINTS WERE USED WHAT SO EVER! it's machine finished, didn't want to loose the look... Plus spraying them looks cheap IMO.. AFTER:

Btw for future members looking for this answer, it's synthetic 75w-90 differential oil... You could also use 80w-90 if you'd like. 2quarts should do it. I use the good stuff personally, royal purple synthetic 75w-90. Not cheap but good *BLEEP* for sure

Edit*

What job are you doing bro it's not just "send me a copy of the tech sheets" lol it's massive... Tell me what job your doing and I can maybe email you the pages for the job in particular.

When are you planning on doing it? And Jesus Christ $400?!? LOL! That's awesome man. Anyhow I did the cam and crank seals when I did the timing belt just not long ago, and I wore my head cam to make a very very thorough DIY guide for the whole gig... Have you watched any of Jeff's video's? There good but he didn't continue the video and the most crucial spot, right when he got to the seals, never finished his series it's actually really a bummer... Why someone would go though all he did, making such an educational series to complete this job, and yet didn't finish it... Stopping at a very crucial point in the job. Anyhow let me know when your going to do it. I just need to edit them, it's very thorough man but if you know how I do the rest, perhaps I can just send you that section. If you want a copy of the tech sheets for the job I have those as well I believe. Just PM me bud.

What's up guys, so I was given these wheels by a family member. They don't have an exanation to why the wheels look as they do, and I'm trying to figure it out as well. I recently painted the wheel to try and make the wheel look better, and it came out great, I'm experienced in spraying so that's not my concern. I just like the machine finish look of the wheels. So I decided to remove the paint using Aircraft paints stripper, in hopes that what my original problem was, was actually some sort of film or clear coat that they applied, and that possibly the paint stripper would remove, allowing me to relolish, and then just clear coat it to see how it would look. Well after about 6 times of applying that stuff, different lengths of time all minimum of 15 minutes. The paints all gone, job successful but, this film or what not I'm talking about, didn't even get fased.... Does anyone know why the wheel has become this way? And what my options may in fact be? Thanks a lot guys. Take a look!

First off let me address your surpentine belt question. Honestly judging the belt while its still on the car, can be done, but its best to remove the belt, flip it insideout, and bend it... if theres cracks, non the less, and ESP because its pushing 136k miles, YES its def. in need of changing man, at least for precautionary reasons.... although its not a catostrophic even if it does break, you do lose alternator power, power steering,and A/C, so why not... its cheap, and its easy. I would recommend going with either of the following: OEM Gates Goodyear's Gatorback Dayco those are not in any particular order btw, they are all great belts that meet the standards and exceed them if you choose to spend the $$$ now as far as replacment goes, honestly, you remove ANYTHING YOU feel is necessary for YOU to accomplish replacing the belt, and reinstalling the parts you removed. There should not be much at all to remove other than the possibility of platics... now as far as water pump goes..... well..... thats up to you honesty. I just did my timing belt on my GS, was my water pump bad? no..... was it showing any symptoms of going bad? no..... But bet your bottom i changed it! You know the job required to change the timing belt, is the same shi^ as the water pump? its truely as fair amount, NOT HARD! NOTHING IS HARD! NOTHING! When people ask if something is difficult it tells me that you just are not mentally preped enough to take on the task, a little more reinforcment, (studying, info) will diminish the question and dount. trust me. But it does take time and patience, thats ALL. so, my recommendation to you, if your doing it, are confident that you will finish the job you started without giving up, because theres truly no reason why anyone should give up, then yes 110% change it before it blows on you, which will result in overheating, which if you do not notice, will prob end up blowing your motor.... now if your not going to do it, but have the money to,.... do it... either way, its better what? SAFE THAN SORRY. good luck let lme know if you have any Q k,

from your PM, thats what youd want.... it even has the lexus logo, and dam im suprised its only $15 I actually need one myself

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2002-2007-LEXUS-GS-IS-LX-GX-300-400-430-470-REMOTE-KEY-BACK-COVER-HYQ1512V-/230703304815?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b6fd106f&vxp=mtr

Old but possibly bearing in power steering or A/C..

actually how is this thread still at the top of the list, didnt realize this was a month old, has this place turned into a ghost town or what...

hang on ill tell you right now I just did mine

ive got another one from a 2000 lexus gs300 if youd like to give it a try...