lx470

There is a Tech story on Bleeding Brakes (maybe another Forum?). Guarantedd you have Air still in the system. The Front bleed valves are very coarse and it is so easy to undo them too far so that as you bleed the fluid out it squirts out of the valve but as you release the brake pedal Air can leak back in around the sides. Been there, done it and still have the 6 bottles of ever so little used brake fluid to remind me of that little episode.

But not the roof? Guess you are using something within arms reach on the body that is causing the problem, hence the roof is not affected.

Find a long straight, get up a good high speed and brake hard. Repeat a few times. See if that cures it. (Removes build up of dust and other grime from the pads and the rotors)

Got 31,000 miles out of the last set of Pads. Only changed them as the Fluid was due for Replacement and they still had a good amount of material left. Rotors are skimmed at Pad replacement to remove the grooves that have been created by the old Pads. The new Pads will not work too well without a matching surface. Rotors warp due to the difference in Heat dissapation. Worse thing to do it to keep your brakes applied when stopped after a bout of heavy braking. The heat is retained under the Pads causing warping as the rest of the rotor cools down. Remember, if you never use your brakes, the Pads and Rotors will last forever. :)

The System will default to LOW when a system malfunction occurs or the weight exceeds the Maximum weight. At or close to Maximum Weight the system will sometimes moce to Low when threshold temps arer detected in the system. Pulling over and letting the system cool will reenable the Height to Normal. All this info is in the Manual. I find that with 6 adults on board the system goes to Low after about 40 miles of Highway driving.

I firmly believe that Lexus "slug" the engine for the first 5,000 miles. Now on my 2nd Lx470 and both have provided extra oomph after the 5,000 mile service. I'm now at 35,000 miles and I have no complaints Performance or otherwise. Context: Other Cars i own include a Mercedes E55 AMG.

Read the Manual further, the OFF is overridden by the vehicle speed pre-determined settings. High will drop to Normal at predetermined speed and Low will riase to Normal at predetermined speed. You can by engaging Low Ratio raise the speed at which the auto height changes happens.

The AHC does not operate above pre determined (lowish) speeds, so you could not do it anyways.

changing the pads is so easy. The Brake Fluid resovior is so big that you do not need to remove any of the fluid. Take the Wheel off. Lever back the pad prior to taking it off. Remove the spring clips holding the Pins in place. Slide the two Pins out. Remove the old pad. Insert the new pad. Put the pins back in. Put the springs back on. check the pads move and return when brake pedal pushed. Replace wheel. Repeat another 3 times.

Here in Australia they come with 17inch Wheels fitted with Dunlop Grandtrek AT22's as standard.

Just order them from a UK dealer. The lx470 is known in the UK as the Land Cruiser Amazon, look up toyota.co.uk find a dealer and contact them to see how much and to ship over to you.

The next LX will be the LX550, a 5.5 litre engine, based on a new ladderframe chassis and available in Japan in 2007. Test builds will start in 2006. The underpinnings will be the new Landcruiser, but the Landcruiser will have a VVTi 4.7 Petrol or a V8 Twin Turbo Diesel.

In Australia the LX470 and the GX470 come standard with Dunlop Grandtrek AT22 and AT20 respectively. Recommended for 70% on road and 30% off road the AT22 wear a lot better and ride and handle much better than the previous Grandtreks (no suffix) fitted to the 2002 LX470. I got < 40,000 kms from the previous 2002 Grandtreks and had the rear brake pads changed at the 40,000 kms Service. Currently have just over 50,000 kms on the current Grandtreks AT22s and had the rear brake pads changed at the 40,000 kms service. Sydney, Australia roads are smaller and have a lot more turns. No freeways to speak off at all. Brakes, will last forever if you never used. :D

Dealer can adjust as it is part of the C-Body system.

AIR suspension Who told you THAT Whats the big container under the hood thats full of Hydraulic Suspension fluid for. When you check, make sure you are out of the LX and raise and lower the suspension before you measure. The self levelling takes a time to sort itself out, also if you turn the engine off and then get out of the LX the suspension settles and rises.

Hhmm, never seen one. Ponders - how would it be attached to the chassis...........if you kept the standard bumper........where would the cradle go..............

Never ceases to amaze me. People buy expensive cars, then baulk at paying for the cost of repairs which are also going to be expensive. If you can't afford the repairs then buy something cheaper and use the money saved to pay for repairs. I'd check the shock absorbers. Bounce each corner of the car up and down 3 or 4 times. Let go and the car should stop bouncing on the 2nd rebound. Do ach corner. If any or all take more than the 2nd rebound to stop moving, the the shocks are shot. An alternative is to have someone drive alongside you abd watch each wheel in turn. Bad shocks will show up as excessively bouncing wheels. You could always take it to a Suspension shop and ask them to check. If they give you bad news then take it away. By the way, faulty suspension is a defect as braking and steering control is dimished. Crash and you will be liable as your suspension is defective. Your Insurance company will walk away from you leaving you personally liable for damages and you alos face the possibility of aggrivated damages for having a car in an unroadworthy status. Personally, I'd get it fixed ASAP

I do not know the way to do it. IF you do find a way then you will increase tyre wear as the camber will change due to the lower suspension settings. You will also run the risk of hitting the suspension bump stops frequently as you have decreased the suspension travel. IF you want to run at a higher speed in Low Height, use Low Range as the parameters to return to Normal Height are higher. BTW. The vast majority of rollovers, excluding the Explorer factor, is due to hitting the kerb or encountering a higher traction surface during a sideways skid.

Most PTOs for Winches are driven from the Power Steering Pump. Love to see Lexus offer the Gearbox PTO Option. Use it to power the Tailgate, if the RX330 can has a power tailgate - why not the LX470

4N is for, for, for.......for switching between 4H and 4L and vice versa. Beyond that I have no idea

Mate, it is a bit simpler or even a bit more complex than that. The LX470 is 4WD all the time. On the Dash is the Centre Diff Lock Button. The Centre Diff lock ensures that you have 50% of power going to the Rear axel and 50% going to the Front axel. Do not use this capability on hard, non slippery surfaces or you will stuff the transmission. What this means is if you lose traction on the rear wheels then you have the 50% of power being sent to the Front Axel. conversely if you lose traction on the front wheels then 50% is still being sent to the Rear axel. Remember, without the centre diff being locked then the possibility is that ALL power would be sent to the axel with the wheel that is slipping and to the wheel that is in fact slipping. You would then not have any power being sent to the wheels not slipping. On the Lx470 with traction control this is unlikely event anyway. Having the diff lock engaged means that the power will always go 50% back and 50%front, regardless of wheel slippage. The Transfer lever, completly seperate to the Diff Lock works as follows. The HI position means that the drive is transmitted through the normal Ratio Gearbox and thence to the axels. The LOW position means that Drive is transmitted through the Low Range Transfer Case and thence to the axels. This LOWERS the revolution of the Drive to the prop shafts theu causing the wheels to turn slower for the same Engine revs for the same gear as provided in HIGH. This will give you higher torque (power) to the wheels. Typically you would use LOW range where you want to go slow(ly) through an obstacle - rock climbing for example, through water, up a very steep incline or a very steep decline where you want to use the power of the engine to !Removed! your speed downhill. LOW is not often use in Mud as the increased Torque (power) to the wheels tends to cause the wheels to spin and dig you deeper into the mud. Typically you would use the Centre diff lock in mud, to ensure that you have drive going to both axels.

Lexus tell me..... Do you mean your local dealer or Lexus Motors? If the former, tell them you are unhappy with their diagnosis and get Lexus Motors involved and/or try another dealer. I used to find my 2000 4 speeder used to do something like that. Finer gas pedal application and anticipation was the answer. I have the 5 speeder for over a year now and whilst no use to you, the gearbox has transformed the whol car.

Been a bit busy with the Bushfires so have not had a chance to look. No, not the normal cooling system. Took me about 3 minutes to trace the noise to the box after crawling all over the engine under the hood. The fan is quiet, never heard it before or since. As it is also on a seperate circuit to the ignition then the cooling is heat sensitive.

Depends on the use you want it for. I put a TJM T15 guard on to protect the front from parking scrapes. Took it off after a year as I got fed up with polishing it. The bullbars/roobars are a different matter entirely. Two types available her in Australia - steel or aluminum. They cover the entire front. You can also get side bars that link from the roobar down the front sides and link into the side steps. The alloy ones are light and will collapse back into the bodywork if you hit something hard enough. another car, a person, or a roo. The steel ones are heavy. Mostly you will need to have the front suspension adjusted/changed to take account of the extra weight. Steering also feels funny as you now have a lot of extra weight sitting right out front. Tyre pressures may also need to increased at the front. Having a roobar will also change the crash dynamics of the vehicle. Both the effect on your vehicle and on the vehicle you hit. Hitting something is unlikely to bend the bar back into your bodywork, unless the force is great.

Its nothing to do with that. Is'nt it fluid anyway, not air. I should have mentioned that the ignition was off and the key removed. I have never heard the fan before, or since which is why I mentioned the conditions. Guess when I clean the layers of mud off I can try and trace the cables to something that makes sense.