SuperCoupe400

thanks. I'll search around for a Lexus repair shop. I am, however, thinking about just biting the $125 - $175 bullet and getting the dealership diagnostic to pinpoint the problem, then just doing the repair myself.

First - I've tried every way imaginable to do a search on this topic (fuel pump ecu) via that search window in the upper right hand corner, but cannot for the life of me get the search tool to yield a single result. I'll admit, I haven't been on this forum in a number of years, but this (new) search tool seems to be just plain FUBAR. Anyway, here's my situation. I've been having rough, jerky, stumbling acceleration at low RPMs for the past 6 months or so. That plus the apperance of my check engine + trac control lights after punching the throttle to pass someone on the freeway led me to believe that my primary O2 sensors were going bad. Then one morning upon starting my car ('93 SC4) the engine seems VERY restricted. I'd press on the throttle (still in neutral) and the engine response was like molassis - slow, lathargic, laggy. A pedal push that should have produced a 4,000RPM response only garnered maybe a 1,500 one. Also, my the tachometer would simply drop RPMs down to zero the moment they hit 1,000! The engine keeps reving (albeit sluggishly), but the Tach needle only responds when RPMs are within the 1,000 range. Even on cold starts the engine idles at under 1,000RPM. Additionally, I get some pretty moderate smoke out of the tailpipes. I haven't even tried putting the car in drive. I'm afraid I may get it outside my garage, but then not be able to get it back in. I did change the primary O2 sensors. Also cleaned the IAC valve and blew compressed air through the MAF sensor. No dice. Can anybody help me out here? I was considering trying a 12v Fuel Mod (bypassing the fuel pump ECU) - and will still give it a try, as the fuel pump ECU may be a culprit. But if it isn't, can anybody suggest other possibilities? Has anybody else had these same symptoms? Thanks

I wish I could be of assistance, but I haven't done my rears yet.

You didn't specify front or rear. I did my fronts (upper & lower control arm bushings - which required removal of arms) this summer. Dont know if this will help any. It's a basic little show-&-tell on the front. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288268

It would be nice if they made some strong enough to 'pop' the trunk lid on it's own (with spoiler). I replaced mine just two years ago too, and almost immediately they started acting just like the old ones. I must have bought the ones for a non-spoiler trunk lid by mistake. They get really weak in cold weather. Just letting go of the lid half-way up makes it slam shut like it was thrown closed - no resistance at all.

I've narrowed my search for replacement shocks to KYB GR2's or Monroe Sensatrac's. I'm not looking to get any improved handling, cornering, agility or anything performance-wise from my car. I just want it to ride smooth and gentle, like a Lexus should - taking potholes and asphalt ripples like a pro. With that in mind, which of these two shocks is going to give me a ride closest to stock? Or is there another I haven't named here (besides the $210/ea Front & $251/ea Rear OEM ones the stealership wants to sell me)?

Thanks, but my concern was whether or not the 235 tire width would still fit (safely) on the stock wheel (which is designed for a 225 width tire). I wouldn't want the tire bead popping off the wheel in a hard corner or anything.

Great link. Thanks.

The stock tire size for the '93SC4 is 225/55/16. Will a 235/55/16 fit the wheel without any adverse effects? Not trying to do it to get a wider look (though it would be nice). I'm just looking at a set of tires on sale at that size, but not available in the stock size. Thanks

Thanks. This is exactly what I needed to know ahead of time - Before half-way dismantling my ride, then having to bicycle it 4-miles to the autoparts store.

I'm going to be doing a teardown this afternoon of my front end suspension to swap out my control arm bushing, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings and wheel bearings. I'll be taking the control arms and wheel hub assemblies to a shop to have the old bearings/bushings removed and new ones pressed. But the other bushings I'll be replacing myself. I know I'll need a torque wrench when re-assembling things. I'm already planning on renting a ball joint separator. But I just want to know if there's any other tool(s) I'll need - besides the basic wrenches and sockets. Any specific size 'oversized' sockets - beyond say, 16mm - that I'll need? Thanks.

Question is - how much spin (off the line) constitutes a 'spin'? Because my '93 SC4 rutinely yanks a good 1 to 1 1/2 seconds of dry pavement with the traction control shut off - which I'm certain is not the result of a moded TC. if the TC were moded, the wheels would spin practically all the way through first (or at least I would imagine).

I ordered a set each of sway bar bushings, control arm bushings and steering rack bushings yesterday (for next-day delivery), but the guy who took my order was having trouble pulling up a tracking number off the system and was suppossed to have called me back with it. Well, it's today and not only have I not heard anything back, but everytime I call I only get TM's answering machine. I know TM's been written up (or mentioned) in a few car magazines and lauded on lextreme.com for donating parts, but i'm getting just a bit worried here. Anybody dealt with them before? Thanks.

OHHHHHHHH YEAHHHHH! :D (as the Macho Man Randy Savage would say) Gotta have the (1st gen) wing. The car is simply naked without it. Had I gone with the 300, I'd have bought a wing for it before even taking delivery of the car itself.

Hey Jibby, will the Trac Control still functon properly with the new torque converter?

My SC had 89k when I got it - with regular dealer service intervals. I don't know whther or not synth was used. But I've used Mobil 1 since day one and in the 2 1/2 years and 60k miles I've had it, I haven't had a single gasket leak. But you do raise an important point, LS400_Fan, about how synth will commonly expose weaknesses in gaskets. I consider 89k 'high' when it comes to switching from organic to synthetic oil. But, again, because I had checked and knew the previous owner had regular maintenance done, I didn't sweat it - and it worked out in my favor. For the record, I entend on switching to Amsoil 0w30 this summer and putting to task their claim (on that particular oil) that it will last up to 35k mi in conjunction with their new filters that will go 25k. I'll be sending a sample in for testing after 15k, then again at about 20k. If it still looks good at the one-year mark (about 22k mi for me), then I'll be a happy camper.

I'm no expert on oil, but it just seems to make sense to me that if you've got an oil (synthetic) that has extended life properties plus a filter that's able to trap oil impurities for extended periods of time (15k mi +), then that should satisfy the requirments of any engine - regardless of how often they demand the oil be changed. It's kinda like when you go to Home Depot to buy a tree to plant in your yard. The instructions on the planting tag say dig a hole 3-times the diameter of the pot. But what they don't tell you is that this practice is only necessary when you're planting in soil that is well compacted, un-fortified with nutrients and hasn't been recently disturbed. If the area you're planting is recently tilled soil, there's absolutely no need to dig a hole any bigger than the root bulb, because the surrounding dirt is soft enough to allow the roots to grow uninhibited. Similarly, I take the manufacturer's recommendations about frequent oil changes is more in reference to the use of organic oils or synthetics with no extended wear properties. Of course, if you're not using the right filter with it, you won't get 15k mi from any oil - not safely anyway.

Yeah, kinda figured that. So I'll work the full set into my budget. Thanks Rascal.

I'm about to swap out several sets of bushings in another week or two. I'm going with the Daizen Sport Tuning sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings, and front polyurethane control arm bushings. The website says that one of the sets, the one that comes with new outer steel shells and inner sleeves, needs to be installed by hydraulic press. Is there a safe and workable shortcut around the hydraulic press - something I could do myself? Or should I be able to just take the control arm to a mechanic (or machine shop) to have the bushings pressed in? Additionally, there are two sets sold - one with the new outer steel shells + inner sleeves, and one set with just the bushings. I'm inclined to get the one with everything. But if you've done yours before, tell me whether you think it's worth the extra $90 to opt for the works. I'd rather keep my cash than let go of an extra $90. But at the same time, if when you swapped yours out you found the original ones to be degraded, I'll take that as a sign that I shouldn't skimp. Thanks.

Okay, now I'm just baffled I went to go unlock my trunk (from the outside with the factory theft deterant system still armed) and my horn starts honking. And it didn't stop until I unlocked the car with the disarm button on the keypad. This same thing has happened only one other time in the 2 1/2 years I've had this car - about 2 years ago, under the exact same circumstances. But I go in my trunk before disarming the car every single day. I did absolutely nothing different than usual. I thought our cars didn't come with audible alarms - only the theft deterant ignition kill. There is no aftermarket alarm on the car - at least I've never seen any extra electronics under the hood or under the dash to indicate such. So I'm just wondering if this has happened to anybody else.

Your antena mast needs replacing. Leave it to grand-master dcfish to say in 5-words what takes me 200. LOL

This hasn't happen to me yet, but if/when it does, I hope it's as simple to repair as yours, lexus082. I just recently had to replace the entire exterior door handle assembly in my wife's Eclipse, and it was an absolute nighmare - having to remove the glass from the door. It took me 4.5 hours of !Removed! around to finally finish the job. I absolutely dread the day when I might have to do the same for the Lex.

I don't know the technical name for that connector you have shown there, but without it you won't get a radio signal. It connects your antenna to the receiver. Regarding the grinding noise, that's gonna be the teeth of your antenna mast being eaten up by the gear inside the motor that rotates to wind the mast up and down. The mast is a long plastic zipper-like strand that runs inside the antenna (plus an additional 14" to 20") and wraps around a gear (usually plastic also) inside the antenna motor. It's replaceble independant of the antenna, but will likely bring even the most seasoned grease-monkey considerable angst trying to pre-wind it, load it and set it back inside the spring-loaded motor housing AND have it's teeth line up perfectly with the gear. I know from multiple experiences. If you're strapped for cash, you may want to try replacing it yourself. If you want to save yourself some frustration (having stripped it apart and put everything back together thinking "It's GOTTA be right THIS TIME!" :cries: multiple times in a row) then just have a professional do it. Either way, as long as you can still hear the motor running, you don't need to waste money replacing the whole unit. But either way, it sounds like you need a new antenna mast. Hope this helps.

Thanks, LLS. I'll check into that soon as I get a chance.

I don't know about that. I'll check, but I'd be surprised to find air in there - considering that I changed and bled all that stuff back in October, but haven't had any noises prior to a couple weeks ago. Though, it's completely gone away now. I haven't heard anything in the past week.