SuperCoupe400

thanks. I'll search around for a Lexus repair shop. I am, however, thinking about just biting the $125 - $175 bullet and getting the dealership diagnostic to pinpoint the problem, then just doing the repair myself.

First - I've tried every way imaginable to do a search on this topic (fuel pump ecu) via that search window in the upper right hand corner, but cannot for the life of me get the search tool to yield a single result. I'll admit, I haven't been on this forum in a number of years, but this (new) search tool seems to be just plain FUBAR. Anyway, here's my situation. I've been having rough, jerky, stumbling acceleration at low RPMs for the past 6 months or so. That plus the apperance of my check engine + trac control lights after punching the throttle to pass someone on the freeway led me to believe that my primary O2 sensors were going bad. Then one morning upon starting my car ('93 SC4) the engine seems VERY restricted. I'd press on the throttle (still in neutral) and the engine response was like molassis - slow, lathargic, laggy. A pedal push that should have produced a 4,000RPM response only garnered maybe a 1,500 one. Also, my the tachometer would simply drop RPMs down to zero the moment they hit 1,000! The engine keeps reving (albeit sluggishly), but the Tach needle only responds when RPMs are within the 1,000 range. Even on cold starts the engine idles at under 1,000RPM. Additionally, I get some pretty moderate smoke out of the tailpipes. I haven't even tried putting the car in drive. I'm afraid I may get it outside my garage, but then not be able to get it back in. I did change the primary O2 sensors. Also cleaned the IAC valve and blew compressed air through the MAF sensor. No dice. Can anybody help me out here? I was considering trying a 12v Fuel Mod (bypassing the fuel pump ECU) - and will still give it a try, as the fuel pump ECU may be a culprit. But if it isn't, can anybody suggest other possibilities? Has anybody else had these same symptoms? Thanks

I wish I could be of assistance, but I haven't done my rears yet.

You didn't specify front or rear. I did my fronts (upper & lower control arm bushings - which required removal of arms) this summer. Dont know if this will help any. It's a basic little show-&-tell on the front. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288268

It would be nice if they made some strong enough to 'pop' the trunk lid on it's own (with spoiler). I replaced mine just two years ago too, and almost immediately they started acting just like the old ones. I must have bought the ones for a non-spoiler trunk lid by mistake. They get really weak in cold weather. Just letting go of the lid half-way up makes it slam shut like it was thrown closed - no resistance at all.

I've narrowed my search for replacement shocks to KYB GR2's or Monroe Sensatrac's. I'm not looking to get any improved handling, cornering, agility or anything performance-wise from my car. I just want it to ride smooth and gentle, like a Lexus should - taking potholes and asphalt ripples like a pro. With that in mind, which of these two shocks is going to give me a ride closest to stock? Or is there another I haven't named here (besides the $210/ea Front & $251/ea Rear OEM ones the stealership wants to sell me)?

Thanks, but my concern was whether or not the 235 tire width would still fit (safely) on the stock wheel (which is designed for a 225 width tire). I wouldn't want the tire bead popping off the wheel in a hard corner or anything.

Great link. Thanks.

The stock tire size for the '93SC4 is 225/55/16. Will a 235/55/16 fit the wheel without any adverse effects? Not trying to do it to get a wider look (though it would be nice). I'm just looking at a set of tires on sale at that size, but not available in the stock size. Thanks

Thanks. This is exactly what I needed to know ahead of time - Before half-way dismantling my ride, then having to bicycle it 4-miles to the autoparts store.

I'm going to be doing a teardown this afternoon of my front end suspension to swap out my control arm bushing, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings and wheel bearings. I'll be taking the control arms and wheel hub assemblies to a shop to have the old bearings/bushings removed and new ones pressed. But the other bushings I'll be replacing myself. I know I'll need a torque wrench when re-assembling things. I'm already planning on renting a ball joint separator. But I just want to know if there's any other tool(s) I'll need - besides the basic wrenches and sockets. Any specific size 'oversized' sockets - beyond say, 16mm - that I'll need? Thanks.

Question is - how much spin (off the line) constitutes a 'spin'? Because my '93 SC4 rutinely yanks a good 1 to 1 1/2 seconds of dry pavement with the traction control shut off - which I'm certain is not the result of a moded TC. if the TC were moded, the wheels would spin practically all the way through first (or at least I would imagine).

I ordered a set each of sway bar bushings, control arm bushings and steering rack bushings yesterday (for next-day delivery), but the guy who took my order was having trouble pulling up a tracking number off the system and was suppossed to have called me back with it. Well, it's today and not only have I not heard anything back, but everytime I call I only get TM's answering machine. I know TM's been written up (or mentioned) in a few car magazines and lauded on lextreme.com for donating parts, but i'm getting just a bit worried here. Anybody dealt with them before? Thanks.

OHHHHHHHH YEAHHHHH! :D (as the Macho Man Randy Savage would say) Gotta have the (1st gen) wing. The car is simply naked without it. Had I gone with the 300, I'd have bought a wing for it before even taking delivery of the car itself.

Hey Jibby, will the Trac Control still functon properly with the new torque converter?