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IFixEm

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Everything posted by IFixEm

  1. One of my questions was if the A/T worked in reverse....he said no. There is no solenoid activated for reverse....as I stated, R is strictly hydro-mechanical in nature. Therefore diagnosis proceds as determining what component is activated in all gears 1-2-3-OD and reverse. CO (forward clutch) is active in every gear but o/d. If the car won't go 40mph you cant get to OD. Simply removing soleniod wires will activate a trany in limp in mode...2nd gear starts (sluggish but no slip) and a crisp up shift to 4th when 3rd would normaly come in. This is a valid check for forward, direct and O/D clutch packs. BTW, Last friday I replaced a tranny with less than 12,000 miles on it with a direct clutch pack that was so overheated from slipping the multidisc pack was fused together. They are good, not perfect. I bet you would be hard pressed to find a 97-98 Rav 4 with an OEM tranny in it. Diferential spyder gear washers exploding, and because of filter design it got pumped everywhere and we lost forward and direct pacs.
  2. click on my member name and my email is avaliable....MKBeyer*nospam-*@aol.com remove the *nospam-* I am editing you post ifixem to add the words *nospam* Other wise searchengines can find your email and add you to a list of garbage quite easily. For everyone else please take note. I don;t favour openly adding an email adress but if you do make an easy alteration to make it alittle harder to help spam find you.
  3. Make sure your PCV hose is still conected to the intake, not just the valve, at the right side of the plenum.. Last time you pulled rear plugs you are right next to it and might have bumped it. It's real easy to bump. This will give a return of P0171 ('cuz now it is lean) and you will have missfire % on all 6 cyls...before we only had miss on 1, 3, 5.
  4. I tired to make excuses for the other dealer missing the MAF issue and fuel trim P0171, if they are sticking by O2 sensors to fix a miss, then I would rather you pay $10 to call me for 1/2 hour long distance at work or home than take it back there. You can remove ALL O2 sensors from a car lay them on the bench and start the car...you will get an exhaust leak, O2 sensor performance code, O2 sensor heater ckt code BUT NO MISSFIRE.
  5. I was wrong about the sprag and I thought I might have been. If you have good presure in P and N and then experience presure loss in D and R it is in the forward clutch circuit like I first posted....if you have low presure allways presure reg in valve body, filter, pump etc. No simple fixes here. The box needs to come out and appart. I suspect it is low psi in D and R only and you have either blown out a C0 (forward clutch) accumulator seal or pipe, or had the C0 piston seal fail. Is the tranny pan dented near the front?
  6. Vince, in the shop manual for the 1MZFE (at least in my 2002 but its probably the same of rthe 1999) the trouble areas are listed in an order for each code. Under code P0171 it lists in this order: Air intake (hose loose) Fuel line pressure Injector blackage open or short in A/F sensor circuit A/F sensor malfunction Intake flow meter Rather than test the two items before the AF sensors and then test the AF sensor and then test the MAF sensor as the inspection procedure illustrates, it sounds like the dealer wanted to just "test by replacement" and hope it goes away. I'm guessing on this next one but I think the MAF sensor replacement is overall less expensive so they go with the mose profitable.?. steviej ← Sorry, I have spoke to soon. The problem has come back. Both the CEL and the Track off light have illuminated and the engine has begun to run a little rough. I have also noticed that the catalyic converter is getting real hot, reason being that it is pinging when I shut down the car. I have the print outs from the diaganostic machine from lexus, but cannot make out what it really means? It has percentages next to each cylinder 1-6 with the error codes. But Inskip Lexus insisted that it was the O2 sensor? Question#1 Can all the experts here on the forum reevaluate this problem? Thanks Much Vince ← Vince, Missfire is caused by compression loss, coils, wires, plugs, cam timing... 20 years, never seen an O2 sensor cause missfire. What are the % next to each cyl? I think you need to pull all 6 plugs and wires and check plugs for hairline carbontracks....looks like pencil lead down the porcilin. Spray some of your leftover brake clean down each plug bore to remove any moisture traces. Ohm check plugwires when they are out...8-15Kohms is nominal. Does your printout give a reading next to cal load? what about MAF g/sec? injector M/sec? post these if it is on there along with short term fuel trim. We can get this. I think you fixed 1 problem but are still looking at missfire caused by water intrusion that has carbon tracked a plug or two. Look/listen for vac leaks hoses off at right side of the plenum.
  7. To think I could have saved $4800....300+ HP for $99 or something right? STOP the MADNESS! ← For Sale.... increase your lawnmower output by 50%...looks like a hairdryer, requiers owner supplied 100' electrical extension cord and duct tape....Only $199.95....ping me for details and dyno sheets.
  8. To think I could have saved $4800....300+ HP for $99 or something right? STOP the MADNESS!
  9. US 20 in Washington was rated in C&d's top ten a few years back. Quaint towns like Republic and Twisp, Thick timber vistas, hills to pass on, and curves more dangerous than Raquel Welsh..... Damn, did I just date myself? Regards, Mike
  10. Oh.....if you coome across a dirt cheap source for TTsupra six speeds to replace our W55's ping us back. Regards, Mike
  11. Is 200's have a M/T 6 avaliable, US imported IS 300's get 5 .....either M/T or auto e-shift. Try our sister site LOC UK for better responces & pics.
  12. Lex/toy/scion cars are not capable of timing advace (only !Removed!) unless you have a preprogamed stand alone ECU or a progamable Greddy e-man like I do. Agreed there is no gain to be had from the up-octane of a car as long as driving styles don't cause a ping. I have to envy the East Coast boys with 93 avaliable to them, but I ride in a different boat than most.
  13. Stats have been posted. Faster, then I take da Z by far. Better, SC hands down. All you have to do to beat 95% of the Z's is boost your SC. Way nicer car....Z boys can also boost but it gets back to the old addage of polishing a !Removed!......Lex has better factory suport, creature comforts, ride......"edgy limits" handling goes to the Z that feels every pea in the road. Daily driven, handling/suspension goes to the SC. Z's are fast and quick, but for a year's worth of Roth IRA's in mods my IS 3c with over 300 hp makes 'em blush. Q35? vs Sc400.....overall again its the SC. Chicks dig 'em, ride, tourque, style...... It's no coincidence that Lexus is synonymous with performance luxury cars after only 13 years importing to the US. You want raw power on the cheap? Check out the 1900 pound 190 hp Lotus that is celica gts powered.... But do you want aluminum floorboards & doorpanels, and a/c that barely lows cold? 4.7 0-60. Beets 80k cars in the 1/4. Z350 is a mustng workhorse, SC is a thoroghbred from short but top lineage. My dream car.....SC430 Blitz twin blowers. high HP AND style. Regards, Mike
  14. SK and JPI are right, you need a new mechanic and they broke the O2 sensor wires when pulling the cradle. I am a newer member but JPI sounds very informed about our products, and experienced in thier repair. Not many mechanics can O/H tranys. I did it for years and only met a few others who could do anything but R&R work. Seriously, it's like 1 in 20 at best. There are over 1000 (no bs) parts in an A/T and it takes just one missinstalled to gunnysack the whole thing. I don't know JPI and am not on his payroll, but I would stongly concider even a $500 tow to him at this point. Small claims court to recoup the initial $2100. $1800 sounded to good to be true and it was. Regards, Mike
  15. I refer this one to my Chineese assistant :Som Ting Wong Reverse is pure hydro-mechanical. If you loose reverse, it rules out the ECU, A/T solenoids and wiring....basically the cheap stuff. I do not have TIS or a manual in front of me....I will double check monday, but there is a machanical clutch called a sprag that allows the output shaft to rotate in one direction and lock in other...F2 sprag failure will give you a slipping/neutral condition but I think you still get reverse.... again I'll double check Monday. Presure loss if he realy checked it can be caused by restricted filters, worn pump, binding presure regulator valve...may be binding on debis or scratches in the valve bore. Hot oil has lower viscosity than cold, so it sounds like you are on the threshold of slipping. What happens if you take the car cold, idle in park for 10 minutes? will it move for the full 2 minutes then? Reverse takes much more pressure than forward gears due to gear reduction issues. You can try SKPerformances filter, it won't hurt and might help. Our filters are mesh screens like your front door screen.... Stops flies but not dirt. I think it's replacement time for you unfortunately. Regards, Som
  16. Mike, you are too too funny and right on the money. What do you suggest for mileage to change on an 2002. 60k, 75k, 90k miles, or when gas mileage takes a drop? steviej ← Well it's not that tough and good platnium plugs are not to expensive so I would recomend every 60K, and fresh wires every 120k or 180k at the worst. As long as no oil gets on the wires they tend to last a long time. Take irridiums out to 90K. Wires are date stamped with the year and it amazes me how many 94 OEM wire set still run fine. When the GM lines were in the same store with us, wires might be good for 60K...if your lucky. Worst part was thier crappy wires lasted longer than the tranys. I made quite a few mortgage payments doing hydromatic O/H's.Regards, Mike
  17. You will have better luck duct taping cow magnets to the fuel line.
  18. We do it that way for emissions purposes. The design is called waste spark. When the plug fires to ignite the A/F mixture, it also fires the plug on the opposite cylinder that is at TDC exhaust stroke. This gives one last chance to burn any HC (hydrocarbons are unburnt or partially burnt fuel moleules). It makes the car cleaner out the tailpipe. The spark jumps from the rear plug ground eletrode to the center eletrode, up the plug wire, to the coil, down the coil lead, to the front plug center electrode and jumps to the ground eletrode. On cars with 100K or more on OEM plugs the front 3 plugs have severly worn center electrodes, while the back 3 plugs look great but have nothing left of the ground electrode. Regards, Mike
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