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I had my climate control redone by them. What great work. I chose to buy and install LEDs for the cluster. I also added a little something tomake them more even and bright. I also have their needles in blue. I had to send them back twice, only two of them for warranty work. Great service for the money.

NO this will NOT help. You need to listen to the information provided. Its in the needles itself. Replace them with similar years. 92-94, are th eonly ones that will work. If you go with 95-2000 ones, they will not work either, due to them having reverse polarity. If you change the cluster to a 95-96, then those years will work...

Bingo, we have a winner^^^^^ This only fixes the tilt down, not in and out. Two seperate motors, if I am not mistaking.

Is this problem fixed???

Post pictures of the interior please. We could access the damage a bit better if we see what we are looking at. Here is mine, redid with SEM Black Landau paint.

I would delete them, unless your state has emissions. In Alabama, we have ZERO emissions. If indeed you have them, then go with something less restrictive. Maybe Magnaflow or something similiar. Best of luck.

Sounds like it could be many problems. I would first do the fuel ecu mod. This allows the full pump to work 100% in any engine temperatures. I would also lean toward a bad coil(s), plugs, wires, IACV, MAF, 02 sensors, clogged cats, and faulty fuel ecu. The fuel ecu is in the driver side rear comaprtment, under the glass. I would first pull the codes, and poist up your findings, if any. I also have the PDF manual with over 4K pages, if needed. Have you personally checked the timing?

The timing belt is straight forward as any dual overhead cam car. Make sure to align the cams up on the mark and remove the crank pulley. I use the old school method to remove the bolt. Do the cam seals, change the water pump, and change the front main seal while you are at it. Also check the cam sensor.

To answer your second question, all the pre 1996's (92-96) will work on your 1992. When get into the 1997's and up, there is some rewiring that has to be done in order for it to work. There have been some people to take own this task and have successfully got it to work, but it isnt worth it to me. If you decide to go with a 1995-96 cluster, the needles will still work. The reverse polarity is in the mother board itself, so if you use the whole cluster, it is plug and play. Its when you start mix matching, is when you need to know the years and compabilities of each. If you have white face needles, they are 92-94, if the needles are red, then they are most likely 95-2000. I hope this clears up some confusion for you. If you need anything further, please ask.

Gerry, I think the problems is that your oroiginal cluster is not a true 1992 cluster or his needles are out of a 1995 and up cluster. The 92-94 have the same polarity, the 95 and up (2000), are reverse polarity. Even though you tested the needles, they will NOT work on your cluster. I think you have a different year cluster or the needles are from a 1995 and up. I would switch the mother board out and bam, best of both worlds. The problem still is that the newer cluster will show that mileage, not yours you have now.

Sounds like the Fuel pump sending unit is still bad. Have you tried to bypass this? I would remove the back seat, bottom first, then the top portion. You dont have to remove the seat belts, just slide them out of the way. Take a 12 volt supplied wire and place on the fuel pump to the blue wire. The blue wire is 12 volts. See if you hear the fuel pump, if you do, then do the mod on the fuel pump ecu. The black box on the driver side rear compartment area. Here is the link.] If you cant get it, PM me and I will provide my personal cell. Be glad to help out another Roll Tide fan. LOL http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/291189-sc300-12v-fuel-mod-w-pictures-faq.html

Wont work, they are totally different compressors and the high pressure lines are different.

This is the notorious hyoer link issue with this mod. Search on ClubLexus and use the search button to find out how to correct the problem. good luck

This has been successfully done on ClubLexus.com, click on the website and perform a search. Shoukd find what you are looking for, good luck

I would cut all three off and let it breathe. Might be alittle louder, but nothing crazy. They are prolly stopped up. Second option is to remove them, knock them out, and then reinstall.Any mods to the cats and it might cause a check engine code. Keep that in mind.

This is the notorious heater control valve acting up. This is by the passenger sidefirewall where the the wiring harness goes through the firewall. Replace it with a new used one. make sure the vacuum lines are not unplugged allowing it not to open and close properly.

removing the spark pkugs is nota requirement. the most important thing is aligning the the two cams in the correct position, then release thetiming belt tensioner.

click on www.lexls.com, then go under maintenance. A diy with easy pictures to follow and rebuild.

i would clean the iacv with some carb or brake cleaner and would replace the two bearings also. very simple to do. search www.lexls.com then click on tuitorials under maintenance. good luck

thanks man. I appreciate the comments.

Post up in the classified sections.. Good luck finding them...

What???? cutting springs on a Lexus?? Did I just read this right? I had a friend cut his only in the rear, and it rode quite well. We thought it was stock until we chnaged the sway bar links. I wouldnt recommend doing this do it changing the entire characterisitcs change.. I would highly advise against it... PERIOD!!

The MKIV supras ones will with power only on the driver side, but the passneger will work also but NOT with power. The bolt pattern and brackets are the same, direct bolt in. You can also use the S2000 seats.

The BFI is the best bang for the buck. Can be found on Ebay for 80 if you are not good with your hands on making stuff. I have personally met this guy and is straight up, he is located in GA.

Hey, I wish I could post anything useful but all I have are problems I'm trying to resolve... Here's a weird one: The radio works for a few minutes then it starts to fade until the sound goes out. However, the CD player works just fine and has no problems. So at least I know the CD power amp is good. I'm wondering if the radio has a separate amp? Anybody ever hear of this problem? Any help would be appreciated. your amplifier is on the way out. located in the trunk and can be repaired or replaced pretty easy...