JPI

Bottom dollar says it's not been bled correctly.

I will let you know. Thanks for your help,.

Kelly,

Have they inspect the reservoir? Most of the time your reservoir is dirty and it will no allow fluids circulate through the system.

JP Importz

I own a 92 LS400 .In 2002 I replaced the whole airconditioning (compressor,clutch,evaprorator etc)went from R12 to R134a fluid.Now my compressor is failing again ,and I talked to this highly regarded mechanic about replacing the compressor with an aftermarket unit.He said that he could do that but would only do it if I agreed to go back to R12 fluid.He claimed that the replacement unit that was able to use R134 was shortening the life of the unit ,even though it would work with R134 ,I would be better off going back to R12.Is he correct in that ,or is he misinformed .

Hi there,

I've successful convert many R-12 system to R-134 with no problem. Many folks giving it a bad rep because they wouldn't take the time to do it right or lack of knowledge how the a/c works. This vehicle actually designed for R12 so it will work much better with R-12 but where can we find R-12? The gray market? We have seen 104 degree here in the Dallas, TX area the past week. I've convert a couple of them last week, air blows 28 degree out of the vents in 104 degree temp. Here are some tips:

- Flush the system

Flush the system, actually..?? Or do you really mean pump it down to a HARD vacuum..?They sell the flushing chemical at any a/c supply outlet. What do you mean why pump it down to a HARD VACCUM? Is this how you flush the system?

- Replace all the 0-rings and lube them up with oil

Why...?? My seals have worked for 150,000 miles... And with what oil...??Once you open up the lines, It's wise to replace the 0-rings. We had a quite a few 0-rings after the convertion.

- Use the right oil for your a/c system

Wouldn't the "right" oil for the system mean being compatible with the original R-12..?? Would be surprise what kind of oil people will put in the a/c system.

- Replace the drier once the system is open up

First pump it down to a HARD vacuum, undoubtedly removing ALL the H2O, and NOW remove the drier..? Why? Since you asked me this question, I don't think you ever work on an a/c system before

- Recharge the proper amount of oil

Doesn't the commercially packaged for retail R-134 come with the oil mixed in...??Nope

- Recharge the proper of R-134(usually 10-15 less than your R-12 system)

Or simply recharge to the level that results in the proper low side pressure, ~40 lbs, as directed in the DIY kit..!

- Last but not least converting the system isn't cheap. Bring it to someone has the knowledge. Pay for the reapair Once not Twice!!!

$50 for the DIY kit including 32 oz of R-134, ~$100 for a reputable A/C specialty shop to do it. Key words = REPUTABLE & A/C SPECIALTY SHOP...!

JP Importz

I own a 92 LS400 .In 2002 I replaced the whole airconditioning (compressor,clutch,evaprorator etc)went from R12 to R134a fluid.Now my compressor is failing again ,and I talked to this highly regarded mechanic about replacing the compressor with an aftermarket unit.He said that he could do that but would only do it if I agreed to go back to R12 fluid.He claimed that the replacement unit that was able to use R134 was shortening the life of the unit ,even though it would work with R134 ,I would be better off going back to R12.Is he correct in that ,or is he misinformed .

Hi there,

I've successful convert many R-12 system to R-134 with no problem. Many folks giving it a bad rep because they wouldn't take the time to do it right or lack of knowledge how the a/c works. This vehicle actually designed for R12 so it will work much better with R-12 but where can we find R-12? The gray market? We have seen 104 degree here in the Dallas, TX area the past week. I've convert a couple of them last week, air blows 28 degree out of the vents in 104 degree temp. Here are some tips:

- Flush the system

- Replace all the 0-rings and lube them up with oil

- Use the right oil for your a/c system

- Replace the drier once the system is open up

- Recharge the proper amount of oil

- Recharge the proper of R-134(usually 10-15 less than your R-12 system)

- Last but not least converting the system isn't cheap. Bring it to someone has the knowledge. Pay for the reapair Once not Twice!!!

JP Importz

Is the system being drawn into a vacuum before recharging? How much oil is being added?

Yes, we vacuumed it for approx 30 min befor charging. We added about 3 ounces of PAG oil.

Have you had a chance to put on the new compressor? Keep us updated.

JPI

What is your budget/goals? I can piece one together for you.

Are you familiar with the Direct Port Injection system? What kind of fuel controller are going to use? This is a very high compression engine.

JPI

Have you inspect your shims on the clutch? I would transfer all the old shims to the newer compressor. When you said you properly charge the system, How much did you charge? What was the low and high pressure? What is the temp ? I would need these information.

JPI

There are only 2 brake sensors. They are located on the passenger side.

JPI

Hi, this is my first post. What code reader can you recommend for a 97 (OBD II 1UZ-FE) LS400? Where do you recommend buying it? And where does it plug into the car?

Here's what leads me to ask... I tried a DIY spark plug & wire change on my 97 LS400 and I did something wrong. I'm getting a CEL and the car isn't running right - some hesitation and rumbling at idle and detonation under acceleration. Rather than redo the whole job and maybe still not get it right, I figure it would be good to buy a code reader and try to pinpoint the problem. I have a second car I can drive in the meantime. In case you're wondering, I'm a Terrible mechanic, but I think it's virtuous to DIY so I like to try with my cars - and usually I successfully complete regular maintenance tasks. Somehow I screwed this one up.

Thanks,

- Ted

Hi Ted,

I would check all the connections one more time. Make sure you don't pinch the wires when putting the cover back on. It wouldn't hurt to inspect coils.

JPI

Replaced ACV, but PS still leaking somewhere.

Have you chech the VSV?

JPI

The GS300 has an engine similar to the Supra - the GS400 has the V-8, related to the new Tundra engines.

A well trained and experienced Toyota technician will have no problem at all doing the t-belt on your car, and they have access to all the needed factory parts. I'd choose a Toyota shop over an independant. Chasing the last few dollars out of a job is not worth it - have someone who knows what they are doing do the job if you are not willing to do it yourself.

Toyota supra has the 2jz-gte and the GS300 has the 2jz-GE with VTT-i. The VTT-I engine is an interference engine, If you miss 3 teeth and the valves will bend. Non of the toyota engine has the 2jz-GE VTT-I except the lexus family. Well let me take it back the newer Toyota supra has the VVT-i, but that is in Japan. I've seen and heard many toyota techs bend the valves when changing out the belts. If you do go to the independent, make sure they are a lexus specialty shop. Otherwise Lexus dealership will be your best bet. What does it involve in the $700 repair? Do they just change out the timing belt and water pump only? I would suggest that you have the drive belt, timing belt tensioner, cam and crank seal replace at the same time.

Regards,

JPI

I am looking for a tuner shop on the east coast (something near VA would be awesome) that can install a supercharger/turbo on my 2002 SC430. I know their is a few aftermarket one's out there but I haven't found a shop on the east coast who is willing or has the experience to perform such a install.

We are a little far..... But kind of power are you looking? Here are a couple s/c we did in the past and present.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1183908821

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1183908907

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1183908937

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1166761505

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1166761559

JPI

We worked on many many LS. Never had one snap on us. Most of our client change them out at 90k.

JP Importz

Hey Josh,

I haven't heard from you ages. Let me know when you are back in Tejas.

Regards,

JPI

Both steering column side by side. The 92 and 94 column does look a little bit different but they do share the same measurement and tilt motors.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723567

Both ignition plugs are the same.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723734

The retracting module wiring is a little bit different. All we had to do is swap them out.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723797

Swapping out the ignition lock. They are quite simple to do.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723906

I had to double check the lower input column shaft. They have the same measurement :woot:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180724148

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180724223

After the installation. The steering wheel steering feel much better. There aren't any feedback or resistance when making turns. Mr. Van English was very happy with the outcome and save him a lot of money. Since he is our long time client, I didn't charge the labor on this job. It's quite a learning experience though.

JPI

One of our good client have problem with his steering column. It makes a grinding noise when turning left and right. We had this issue in the past and a little shim was in place to fix it temporary. After modified the shim and tested the clearance on the column. The inner shaft was way out of clearance, A new steering need to be in place to fix this problem. We called lexus and they wanted $1500 just for the column ouch. BTW, This vehicle is a 94 Ls400. After a couple of sleepless night, we decided to look into swapping the donor steering column. It's a Ls400 92 with 93k miles, I wasn't sure if it's going to fit or will work. According to Lexus they have the same part number.... This part get more interesting. So I spent the entire weekend measuring all the brackets and steering column shaft. They do fit... they wiring is a little different though..... Great !!!!!!

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180722646

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723511

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723543

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/jp...pg?t=1180723567

Steering column is out of the vehicle.

Not to flame you but those #'s seem low for that amount of boost. Don't get me wrong, those are great whp #'s!! I'm just really curious as to what octane yieled those #'s @ that level of boost...that car should be in the 500's

This is with stock timing. There are a lot more of tuning left but it's pointless for to make more and the tranny will let go.

JPI

Congrats to Greg Brown from South Lake, TX. Vehicle makes 459whp @ 18 psi. Here are the specs on it

JPI Turbo kit with 3" piping

T70 Turbo

440cc injectors

W58 tranny

RPS stage clutch

TT short block

ARP head studs

Custom JPI Head gasket

Modified stock flywheel

Custom JPI fuel rail and lines

PCS XFC with walbro in line pump and some special sauces

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1178054013

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1178054105

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1178054164

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t....g?t=1178054688

This is on the stock W58 tranny. Congrats to Greg again.

JPI

I have a '97 ES 300 that's been a tough nut to crack regarding some starting issues. When the car is cold (or has been sitting long enough for the engine to equal outside temperature), it starts like a gem. However, when I have been driving it long enough for the engine to heat up to normal temperatures, and stop the engine briefly, it acts as though there's no fuel injection. It will start, then die quickly. I then have to pump on the gas while starting it again to 'prep' it, idle it to about 2000 rpms for about 5 seconds then usually it's fine. But without giving it a little gas upon starting, it will not catch. It wants to fire up without any help, but doesn't quite get there. Although I have not been witness to it, my wife says it's ocassionally stalled on her when idling at a stop light, but neither of us have had any problems with it cutting out when driving. I've very recently changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter, but there's been no difference in result. I've read a couple suggestions for similar problems, being the IAC Valve. Would cleaning it resolve this issue? I'm open and appreciative of any feedback. Thanks!

I would try to clean the IAC. If the problem doesn't go away. Check your fuel pressure and ignition.

JP Importz

Found the problem guys, it was the Fuel Pressure Regulator

What was the fuel pressure?

JPI

Everyone, I want you to know this is REALLY helping! However, I'm not TOTALLY satisfied yet.

I don't believe scrapping the car is a practical option for me. At this point in my life I'll be going into college soon, and I need to SAVE money instead of making car payments (yes I know fixing it will be costly).

Due to my price range, if I get a different Lexus, it will have to be another high millage fixer-upper. Or, if I get another brand, it will have to be something thats cheaply made with low miles.

Remember: My ES300 is in EXCELLENT shape out side of the block/head gasket, and these few minor problems.

I guess what I'm curious to know now is: How much do you really think I'd be spending to fix this? Does anybody have a block for sale? Would I be able to get a used block? Would I better off get a new one? Or should I go with what the majority is saying and junk the car (against my better judgment)?

I really appreciate all your input!! I've decided to go to talk to the mechanic tomorrow to try and here what he has to say.

Thanks for everything so far LOC members!!

Ler

PS. Prom is in 2 months... Who here had the opportunity to drive your date to prom in a Lexus? ;)

Hey Ler,

We have work on hundreds of ES300. I would suggest that you have the entire engine replaced. Depends on the condition of the donor engine but it could range from $500-$1500. Labor would be around $1500 to install. You would need to replace valve cover gaskets and all the seals. So after said and done it would be around $4000 plus. The vehicle would be down for 2-3 weeks. It wouldn't be a smart move to invest in something that is very old. As you can see the 92-93 models, have many many problems with blown headgeskets. Also it is very important that you have a written estimates from the repair shop that you are dealing with. I do understand things could happen when you are dealing with an old lexus. They need to contact you if there is any additional cost arise during the repair. Or you can ditch the vehicle, put that money toward something newer. If you are looking for something cheap, I go take look at the civic. They are cheap, reliable and easy to work on. Your date wouldn't impress if the vehicle break down on the way to your prom. Best of luck sir.

JPI

Just because you pulled a plug does not tell you anything if it is firing. You need to have the plug in the coil and ground the side of the plug to confirm visually if there is spark across the gap and then you will also be able to see if there is any gas in the cylinder being sprayed out.

we took the spark plug out, black as hell and then we cleaned it and put it back in for like 30 minutes took it back out and the spark plug was black as hell again.

Hello there,

How is your ignition system? Are you getting sparks to the #6 cylinder? What is your fuel pressure? How about some long term fuel trim(bank 1 and 2)? What is your LT fuel at idle an 2500rpm? What is the air flow reading at idle? Have you scope the crank ? Have you hook up vaccum gauge? It's very diffiuclt to properly diagnost the vehicle without the needed information. BTW, There is no such thing as number 6 = 217 misfired. Misfired count as percentage. Sometimes it wouldn't pick up the reading on my Lexus scanner. A good ignition scope needed in these cases.

JPI

Really?!?? That would shock me if Sewell shipped you the incorrect rotors...

The computer sometimes would show the current parts number on the vehicle. It take some skills and time to keep up with the TSB. I spend about 5 hours per week to read and learn about these TSB for Lexus/Toyota and Scion. It's a very good tool to have.

Regards,

JPI

Timing belt, water pump, accessory belts and etc have been changed.

Power steering pump had a leak in the front seal that would have cost more to reseal than just to replace. That is all fixed.

The brake rotors took the technician for a loop because I had painted them. That was the first reason to suspect aftermarket. However, when they matched up a current rotor from their stock with the same part number as the one sent by Sewell, the rotors didn't match up visually. The rotor that was sent by Sewell may in fact be Toyota/Lexus, but there seems to be a problem with the casting on both front rotors. Hence the pulsation. They suspect that the rotors sent by Sewell may be the old style that was replaced in the 2002-2003 TSB. Why they would still be in stock is beyond me. Sewell Lexus has agreed to send me out two new front rotors.

At the end of the day, the headache and problems were much less than they were made out to be yesterday.

steviej

Steve,

Sorry for all the troubles that you are going through. If your current rotors are warped and you are replacing them with a newer unit. I would replace the brake pads also. We had many many issues with ES300 rotors in the past, replacing the rotors and pads at the same time would eliminate comebacks.

On a second note, I'm shock that your power steering pump front seal give out this early in age.

Regards,

JPI

There are many type of 90k Service. I would get all the details. Have them fax over the estimate before doing anything. But a typical full blown 90k service at an Independent Lexus repair shop would run $1100.

JPI

Well, I was reversing into my driveway when all of a sudden I feel the car jerk and the car starts going forward. Obviously from the gravity. The RPMs fly through the roof becuase I'm stepping on the gas. Then I try to put the gear into Drive and still nothing. I try 2nd and Low. Nothing. This is a really BAD problem, I'm guessing. ANY HELP WHATSOEVER WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!! This just happened a few minutes ago and I have NO IDEA what to do or what happened! I need the car to drive to school :( I'm 19 and what I know about cars is strictly limited, so please help!

Hello there

What year is your vehicle? How often do you service the transmission? Inspect your shifting cable. Make sure it's tight. I've seen many transmission fail due to lack of service. Good Luck.

JP Importz