Anovice

Yesterday I had 4 KYB struts put in. First time the struts were changed and a world of difference in the ride. Today I went to the Toyota dealership and got a 4 wheel alignment. Now suddenly, I cannot get the car out of park without simultaneously pushing the over-ride button and taking it out of park. It did not happen yesterday and only today and is now happening anytime I put the car from a gear to park, regardless if the car is running or not. I don't assume there can be a connection between the work that was done. What is going on and do I now need to worry about this. Thanks.

Thanks. I assume when you say any silicon, that would include GE caulk in a tube. Also, where are the drain plugs?

I have quite a bit of condensation in one of my rear tail light lenses (it gets there from the car wash and heavy rain). In the past it would dissipate with dry weather, but for what ever reason it is not now. While I do not think the bulbs are blowing pre-maturely, certainly this cannot help. That said, in the next few days I need to change the break light bulb and will have access to get air inside. Two questions. What is the best way to remove the condensation (I was thinking of blowing hot air in the opening with a hair dryer when changing the bulb) and second, what is the best sealant to put around the outside of the lens (I am assuming this is where the water is getting in) to prevent water from getting in the lens in the first place. Thanks.

Thanks much. When I get the 4-6 nuts off, does the light assembly come out from inside the trunk or outside the car?

My driver side rear break light is out. I believe there are two bulbs and the one at the bottom left as you are facing the rear of the car is the one that is out. I opened the trunk un-snapped the plastic piece and peeled back the carpet. However, for the life of me I cannot figure out which nuts I needs to remove to gain access to the bulb. Does someone have a diagram that would help me? If not, I would greatly appreciate an explaination to how many of these nuts need to be removed and any other details. Thanks much.

Good morning. As I need to make a decision today, I certainly would appreciate some feedback. Will the Monroe "Reflex" Sensa Tracks" do the job or should I look on-line to purchase the KYB's? If the latter, where is a good place to look? The struts have never been changed in 121,000 miles. By the way, just for an added piece of information, the tires I just put on are not V, but HR rated. I mention that as an indicator that I am not the most particular. I am trying to keep the car running well and improve the ride and hopefully get two or three more years service (only put on approximately 12,000 miles per year). Thanks much.

The box says "Reflex" and "Gas Charged Replacement Strut". Hopefully that will give you more information to help me make a decision. It would certainly make my life easy if you feel these will be adaquate. If not, where on line may I purchase KYB's? If I do not have the time to go that route, do you know a retailer that sells KYB's? I live in a major city. Thanks. Depends which Sensa track they put on. From what I remember there are three softness levels. Two is what you use to replace Caddy and Lincoln struts. Honestly... It won't make a big change from stock, but I would buy new kyb struts, or slip the recharge cartridges in (coast the same) before putting those struts in. Not to say anything against Monroe, I had the stiffer ones in my Corolla years ago that did pretty good. I just think since you're retaining a stock ride, the KYB was designed for it. They allow the "luxury float", but maintain some control while doing that. ←

I am moving along with this project. Again, I have 121,000 miles and only put on approxiamtely 12,000 miles per year. I am no car aficionado and simply trying to get an improved ride and another few years out of the car. Regular maintenance and I recently had the timing chain replaced as well as the water pump, etc. , new breaks and tires. My friends son works at a local parts shop. Through him I can purchase Monroe Sensa Trac Struts (he only has these and Matic Plus). The fronts will cost me $45 each and the rears $65 each. I spoke with my local mechanic (he did the breaks, timing chain etc.) and will change all 4 struts for $275. Seems fair enough. I see on this forum that other brands of struts are generally recommended. My question is, being I am am no car aficionado and put on low miles per year, are the Monroe Sensa Tracts adequate? I would not know different type of rides from the man in the moon. I need to make a decision by Monday afternoon so to be able to confirm the appointment with the mechanic for Thursday. Thanks much.

I am Anovice and certainly a novice. I also have a 92 and spent about $800 4 years ago getting my A/C fixed. It has worked fine since. Last month I did not feel it was cooling as good as the recent past. I went to my local machanic (he did not fix the A/C 4 years ago) and got the system charged (I just learned charged means adding Freon). He said he added almost a pound and it cost me $85. I know it was R-12 (or he said it was and my seals are not leaking) and the A/C is now cold, cold, cold. At least in my area there is no problem finding R-12. P.S. Dupont did a great scam job on the government, but they are more than happy to sell R-12. It's called mega profits.

Thanks, but I think we are talking about two different things. The bulbs themselves are fine. The problem is the plastic covers. There is some sort of a film, dirt or junk on the inside. Per SKperformance I will search the archives and revert if I get no where.

I know this topic has been addressed many times before, but I cannot locate it in the archives. It is now to the point where I can hardly drive at night, even with my brights on. What can I do to clean or correct the problem of the covers? I assume this involves taking them off and as I know absolutely nothing about cars, I would greatly appreciate as much detail as possible, including where on line I may find a diagram for the removal. Thanks much.

Thanks for information and I will make an appointment for an alignment. Regarding the ride, does it make sense to get the four struts changed? This has never been done on the car. If so, do people usually change the springs at the same time or any other related general maintenance parts?

My car has 122,000 miles, I have decided to try to keep it a few more years. In the past 3 months I had the timing chain, water pump, etc. replaced and want to spend a little more money wisely in up keep. I have two related questions. I recently put on 4 new tires. The old ones lasted approxiamately 35,000 (were rated at 40,000), so generally I feel I got my monies worth. However, I noticed they did not wear evenly (outside of tire had greater wear). I was religious regarding rotation, but less so about pressure. I gather this problem could have been caused by tire pressure or alignment (I live in a big city with many potholes). With the new tires, the car is diving straight with no noticible pulling. Should I get the alignment checked or leave well enough alone? If so, other than a Lexus or Toyota dealer, who does this type of work? The suspension is a different story. I hear every strange noise (rattles, squeeks, thumps and even a chain sounding noise), mostly when I go over bumps or ride on un-even surfaces. The shocks (if this is what they are called) have never been changed. I am less bothered about every little noise, but I would like to get a better ride. What should I have checked and without spending a ton of money, what parts should I look into getting replaced. Please try to be specific as I know little about cars. Thanks.

OK...I still have not done anything about this problem since November. Is or is not Dashusa.com an option and is or is not $350 a fair price? My needles are fine, the problem is my instrument lights.

No shimmy when I am braking. Only driving and only 20-40 mph. Again, no pulling to either directon. In fact, all four breaks were changed as well as rotors cut about 4 months ago. I did not have a problem after that. This problem started about a month ago. With all the pot holes in the city, I would think there is a correlation. I would have also thought balancing all four tires would have solved that. Maybe the next step is to go back, get all 4 re-balanced and rotated as well, since you do not feel a shimmy would be attributable to be out of alignment.

No, fortunately no noise or sounds.

By the way, the car does not pull to the left or right.

Between 20 - 40 miles per hour, there is a shimmy in the front end which I feel in the vibration of the steering wheel. The problem does not happen below 20 or above 40. I had all four tires balanced, but that did not solve the problem. However, I did not have the tires rotated, which probably I should have and will be the next step. If that does not solve the problem, I assume I should check into a front end alignment, however, my local mechanic said there is really nothing to align on these cars. I have no idea what that statement meant...is there or is there not. Anyhow, I would appreciate all thoughts. Thanks.

I planned on purchasing the parts from Park Lexus in Plano Texas. The last time I purchased from them, the parts (air filter, PVC valve, fuel filter) all came in Toyota boxes. So, I assume the parts are OEM. If I understand correctly, the tensioner and idler are IN ADDITION to my first post. Is this right?

On another post I read about changing the tensioner pully and idler at the same time. Are these the two V-belts I mention in my origional post or something different? So, from the post above it looks like the two cam seals and one crank seal should also be done? I made an appointment with the mechanic for late next week and need to order whatever parts I need now. Thanks.

I decided as preventative maintenance that I will get the timing belt changed. I will pruchase the parts on-line and will go to my local mechanic for the labor. However, I did call the local dealership and they suggested the following: 1. Do the water pump at the same time 2. Do the two V-belts the same time 3. Change the thermostat the same time These 3 in addition to the timing belt seem to make sense, unless you folks dis-agree. They also said to change the two cam seals and one crank seal at the same time. Do you agree? If so, will this add much more labor cost? Before I commit, I would appreciate any thoughts. I do have some oil leakage, but have no idea whatsoever if the sources are the cam seals or crank seal. Thanks much.

Well, thanks to all you folks, I feel the car is back in shape. I was finally able to get the PCV valve out, the new one in, the power steeing, break and transmission fluids were change, the plugs, oil and I guess a few other things. The car has 116,000 miles on it and I do not recall the timing belt ever being changed, at least not after 62,000 miles when I got the car. These are my general questions: 1. If I do not change it and it breaks, other than being stopped in my place, can it cause damage to the car? 2. If you guys strongly recommend I do get it changed, should the water pump or any other parts be replaced at the same time? 3. If I am to get the timing belt changed and other parts, I would like to purchase them at Park Place Lexus and my local mechanic will install them. When I purchased the PCV valve from them I did not know to ask for the rubber gasket, so I ran into a problem and finally had to go to the local Toyota dealer. I would want to avoid this in the future. Do I simply order a timing belt or do I need other parts for the mechanic to change it? If you guys recommend changing the water pump, again, do I just order a water pump or do I need other parts. Etc, etc. 4. Approximately how much should I pay in labor (or Labour) to get the timing belt changed as well as the water pump if recommended and any other things, if recommended by you folks. I would rather not change the timing belt now, but if it will cause other damage in the engine if and when it breaks, I gather I would rather get it changed now. Again, thanks so much for all the help and advice.

Thanks again. No, I still can't get it out. All I did was break off alittle more of the plastic piece and it is now dark, so I can't see anything. I will try one more time early in the morning. I guess I can put some tape on top of the broken valve for the 4 mile drive to the mechanic, so the oil does not splash around. I puchased this part from Park Place Lexus (along with others) and now have noticed they did not include a rubber gasket. Hopefully the one in there will be able to be re-used (since I will not be near a Toyota or Lexus dealer) at least until I am able to get by one. That would mean "I" would need to take out the new PVC value to put in the new gasket!!!!!

Thanks much. I have been doing so, but I will try again. In case I do not get it out, can I drive to the mechanic in the morning without the hose hooked up?

I am in the process of changing the PCV valve and in trying to take out the old one, broke it at the elbow. Two questions: 1. How do you get the old one out? It turns and turns (or spins and spins) but it is not coming out. Should I get a wrench and try to pull it out? 2. In case I can not get it out, is it OK to drive to the mechanic in the morning without the hose hooked up? I gather, if need be, I could put the hose back on attached to the plastic part remaining, which is in the verticle position. Thanks.