Anovice

Just got back in from taking the car out and noticed a few more things: 1. The fan/heat does not go on when the controls are in the automatic position, even when the engine is fully warm (not normal). When I change the mode, for example from the floor to the vents/windshield (far right mode), the system goes from automatic to manual and the fan/heat kick on. 2. After a few minutes on, the heat turns to cold air, back to warm air, back to cold and so on. 3. While this is happening, I noticed the temperature guage going from the normal middle between hot and cold to hot. In fact, at one point it went up almost to the top and settled back down at 3/4 which is still 1/4 higher than it mormally rests. Obviously this is not normal is 20 degree temperatures. So, I have a problem, which not only includes the inability to keep the interior of my car warm, but also difficult to keep it from over heating. Even though I know little to nothing about cars, hopefully with your suggestions and a friends help, we can make a few attempts to fix the problem over the weekend. If not, hopefully I can make it to the shop on Monday without it over heating. Thanks again, Anovice.

I have never had a problem with the heater, including driving to work today is 25 degree temperatures. However, driving home the heater acted up. The car was warm for about 10 minutes with the temperature guage right in the middle. Always by this point the heat comes on with the fan mode blowing the air to the floor. Nothing. I changed the mode position to the vents and window and the fan went on high. I changed the mode back to the floor and the fan continued on high, albeit the air felt cool. I turned up the temperature and the heat felt like it was increasing, that is for a minute. Then it went cold and warm again. A friend thought the problem may be the thermostat sticking. Maybe that is the problem, but what connection does that have to the fan and mode position? Maybe the thermostat was sticking in the beginning and for whatever reason when I changed the mode to the vents and windshield, the thermostat became un-stuck. But if that were the case, why cold air with the fan on? Anyhow, I would appreciate some thoughts as to what might be going on. If you suspect the thermostat, I have two questions. Can I go to any local local parts supply place and purchase one or is it better to go to the local Toyota place for the part? And, what does it entail to change it? Thanks much, Anovice

Mechullica, the mechanic try to clear the codes per the book. He first disconnected the battery, which is one of the protocols on a Nippondensio ABS system. Being that did not 'seem' to work, he followed your instructions of clearing the code that you posted on October 1. How do I know? Because I printed out your instructions, gave them to the mechanic and watched him try both proceedures to clear the code. What I don't know is if he was able to clear the code and it came back immediately OR he in fact never cleared the code to begin with. i would assume one of the two proceedures would have cleared the code 35. Could the problem with the R/R speed sensor? Skperformance, I am at a loss what you mean by "they gave you a free code scan at the dealer which most do". I did not bring the car in for a "free code scan". I brought the car in for a diagnosis as to why the ABS light was on. The Totoya invoice says: "Customer States: ABS light is on needs L/F speed sensor part needs to be ordered estimated PL+T $359.00 (2.0)" No where on the no charge invoice does it say code 35 ("free code scan"). It could not be more clear and it is of no moment that the Toyoya dearlership did not charge me for the diagnosis, unless you are saying I would have received a different diagnosis if they would have charged me. "needs L/F speed sensor" is pretty definitive and other than in places such as Montreal and Quebec, the English language speaks for itself. It does not seem like an option to go back to the same Toyota dealership. What would I say...here is your written diagnosis but because I wanted to save a few bucks I went elsewhere. I can't go back to my local mechanic as he has had enough of this problem. I gather I could try another Toyota dealership, but that would be throwing more money at the problem, unless I show them the Toyota diognosis. Do I have a reason to believe that the mechanic did not clear the codes after installation of the L/F speed sensor? I guess in theory it could be the L/F hub, but that would be contrary to Toyota's diagnosis. I also gather it is a possibility that the mechanic did not insert the sensor all the way. Since code 35 indicates L/F and R/R, could the problem be in the R/R? I think you guys have been great in helping to determine the different possibilities of the cause. As you can tell, I am terribly frustrated, primarily because even if you knew 100% the cause, I would not know where to take the car at this point. It seems like my two options are back to the same dealership and be embarrassed or onto another Toyota dealer with the receipt I have. Any last minute thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Anovice.

Skperformance, it appears I am not communicating effectively. We agree that the local mechanic does not have the propper scanner. He does not have an oscilloscope and only used an ohm meter. He obtained a reading from each sensor and concluded all 4 sensors were good and felt the problem was the ecu. Others on this board said an ohm meter was not the propper way to tell as he could be getting a reading from the coil. Unfortunately he did charge me for his time. Being there was no resolution and others on this board felt the problem was NOT to ecu, but a sensor (Toyrsme), I decided to go to the Toyota dealership. It was the dealership that did not charge me for the diagnosis, but concluded it WAS the L/F speed sensor. This is written on their no charge invoice and also on this paper is a $359 cost to REPLACE THE L/F SPEED SENSOR. Based on TOYOTA'S WRITTEN diagnosis, I purchased the very same speed sensor and went back to my local mechanic who installed it. ABS light is still on. So, I am confused when you say: "Your mechanic does not have a proper scanner or it would have read the abs sensor issue. It is then up to the tech to find out if it is a wiring ,sensor or hub issue that causes the fault" and "I think they did it for free because they only hooked up the scanner to it to find a fault not investigate the issue by checking it thoroughly" Would not a reasonable person conclude that the tech at Toyota dealership check it thoroughly since he determined that the problem was the L/F speed sensor (and not the wiring or hub) and the written quote is to replace the L/F speed sensor only? Is is possible you mean that if I would have paid the Toyota dealership for the diagnosis it would have been honest or accurate? All I know now is the same as day one, which is code 35 (plus out about $250). For all I know, the problem could be in the R/R sensor. Hopefully I cleared up any mis-understanding. Are there any suggestions at this point? Thanks much, Anovice.

SKperformance, thanks for your post. I did read all the replies and as I recall, yours is the only one that mentioned a new hub. In the addition, the Toyota dealership said nothing about a new hub and only a L/F speed sensor. So as a novice, or anovice, would you not agree I was had reason(s) to believe the only problem was a bad speed sensor? That said, IF I read your original post correctly, you are saying I need a new hub. Is this correct? If so, can I buy one on line from the likes of ebay? A junk yard? What year Toyota Camry hubs will be interchangable? We KNOW the new sensor is good. If I get the hub changed, will this destroy the new sensor, as in your other post you said the sensor needs to be pressed out which will destoy it? Thanks, Anovice.

Well, I am on a roll. Looks like I am out another $180. The L/F wheel sensor cost me $120 on line and $60 for the local mechanic to install....and the ABS light is still on. As mentioned, the Toyota dealership diagnosed the problem as needing the L/F speed sensor, which is on the "customer copy" of the invoice. They did not charge for the diagnosis (you get what you pay for), but since they wanted $360 to change the sensor, I went the route I did. While I know nothing about cars, I watched the local mechanic do the repairs. He did change the sensor which took all of 15 minutes. He then took off the battery cable to clear code 35. As my luck would have it, the air bag light came on and would not go off. I think it was code 41. He cleared that through the ecu. He then proceeded to clear (or try to clear) code 35 through the ecu. He followed the instuctions from the manual posted on this forum as well Mehullica's, which are about the same. The one thing that I am not 100% certain of is if the ABS light ever when off. I am 100% certain it came back with code 35 and I personally watched it blink 3 times then 5 times. I now have about $250 into it and still with the ABS light on. Are there any other suggestions? Please help! Thanks, Anovice.

WOW! Thanks much for the information, albeit over my head. Mehullica, sounds like you have followed all the posts and can clearly see I have no idea whatsoever what is going on. That said, it sounds like you concur with the Toyota dealership, especially in light of my previous posts, ie code 32, code 35, etc. and in light of Toysrme's good advise. I will purchase the L/F speed sensor on line for $108 and bring it, along with your instructions, to him. I have found this local mechanic to be fine and certainly honest, but it also became clear to me that something is thowing him off with this ABS, including his feeling the problem was the ecu (you seemed to have answered why). Hopefully he will not need any more instructions than you have supplied. If you, or any one else feels there is more to add, please do so. I assume these are your instructions to clear the codes "Use a wire and jump pins Tc and E1 of the DLC connector, turn the key on and press the brake predel 8 times within 3 seconds to clear the code." Is it possible and/or acceptable to disconnect the battery to clear the codes? I ask because this is how he tried to clear them last time. By the way, do you have a estimate as to how much time it should take to change this speed sensor? Thanks so much. Anovice

Update... Well, it appears Toysrme was correct in both regards. I took the car into the local Toyota dealership for evaluation. They said the problem is not the ECU and it is the front left speed sensor. Now I need to make a decision and would appreciate more advice. The Toyota dealership wants $360 to replace the sensor. A lot of money for me and a lot of money for a problem that I could live without getting fixed. That said, having ABS would be nice, especially coming into the winter. My alternative is to buy the sensor on line for $108 and take it back to my local mechanic, who could not diagnose the problem in the first place. A few questions. Should it be difficult for the local mechanic to change the front left wheel sensor? How long should it take him? Assuming any competent mechanic should be able to replace a wheel sensor and the book says it is under an hour and it costs me $60 labor, I can evaluate the risks of spending $360 vs. $168. Where in the FSM does it address clearing the codes (if I take it to the local mechanic and he does not know how to). $200 is significant, however, if my assumptions are not correct and/or the Toyota dealership also did not diagnose the problem properly, then I am stuck with a $108 wheel sensor and a continual problem. The one benefit of the dealer is I can say "you said this was the problem and fix it!", but that piece of mind is costly. Thanks much, Anovice

A few last thoughts and questions and I gather I am on my own. 1. I went to ebay, but could not find the ABS ecu that you mentioned for about $30. The print out I have from the Lexus dealer calls the part a "control module". Would it be possible for you to post it? For $30 plus shipping, maybe it makes sense to buy it and have my mechanic change it. Less expensive than to go back multiple times. Would the one for a Camry work? If so, I too cannot find it on ebay. I see from my print out from Park Place Lexus that control module indicates 92-94, but you mentioned 92-96? 2. From Park Place Lexus, the two front wheel sensors are $108.17 each and the two rears are $157.04 each. This seems to indicate that the two fronts are the same as well as the two rears. Do you agree? If so, I gather I can but one of each. Park Place Lexus allows returns so long as the part is not electronic (ie. control module). Are sensors an electrical part? Again, it indicates the year to be 92-94. Do you think these would be available on ebay? 3. In your first post you mentioned "go look at pages BR-64, and skip up to BR-84 in the Brake pdf in the FSM". What do all these letters stand for and where could I find this document? Hopefully I can order the sensor(s) tomorrow from Park Place Lexus (if not available on ebay) as well as the control module from ebay. My left front brake hose is leaking and this MUST be changed immediately ($50.12 from Pake Place Lexus. I checked with Drivewire, but they do not carry this part). Not fun owning an older car, specially when I am car challenged!

Toysrme, thanks much for your post. As I know nothing about cars, I would like to make certain I am understanding you. I will get a new wheel sensor. However, it does not sound like you are suggesting I get one for the front left wheel (drivers side), figuring the mechanic can fix code 32 with a new wire. Is this correct? Yes, code 32 went out when he ran a new wire from the left front wheel sensor to the module, but I do not understand what made the existing wire bad and wonder if the problem is in fact the front left sensor. If the mechanic was correct that it was the wire, now he will have to spend the time (and me the money) to run this wire neetly from the wheel, I guess through the fire wall, to the module. If so, we are only talking about code 35..."open circuit in front left or rear right speed sensor circuit". So, are you suggesting I pick up a wheel speed sensor for the right rear wheel? I see that the front speed sensors cost $108.17 each at Park Place Lexus and $157.04 for the rears. I assume that is about as good a price as I can get. While I gather a moot point, I do not know what you mean by "an ABS ecu is worth like $30 bucks". I see on line at Park Place Lexus that the "Control Module" cost $247.29, a "Skid Control Relay cost $61.46", a "Modulator Valve $1,257.65 and the price for the "Speed Sensors" as above. I think those are all the parts related to the Anti-Lock Breaks and I see nothing in the area of $30. Again, thanks so much and I guess the only question is for which wheel or wheels do I get the speed sensor?

Brought the car into the local mechanic today to look at the ABS. The problem seems intermittent, but mostly the ABS light stays on. However, sometimes I start the car and the ABS light does not come on until I break for the light down the street from my house. Also, a few months ago the tires were rotated and the light stayed off for a few days. That said, he trouble shot the problem and said code 32 and 35 came up. 32 is front left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction and 35 is open circuit in front left or rear right rear speed sensor circuit. With an ohm meter he checked the sensors. He said he was getting a signal. Suspecting a wire problem, he roughly ran a new wire from the left front wheel sensor to the module. That seemed to take care of code 32. However, regarding code 35, he said the module is not reading the rear right wheel sensor, thus concluding I need a new module (the wire to the module is good). I spoke with Park Place Lexus and they felt since the problem is intermittent (but mostly the ABS light stays on and always once is goes on it stays on until I shut off the car. Them maybe is come back on when I start the car, but always comes back on when I break for the light down the street from my house), they did not feel the problem is the Control Module. They felt more likely the problem would be a bad sensor. So, I spent $100 today on a few hours of labor and I do not feel I am any farther. If I buy the Control Module, I am out another $250 plus more labor. If the Control Module was the problem, why didn't a code come up indicating that? With the above in mind, can someone please take an educated guess as to the problem(s). Is it time to take it into Lexus or the local Toyota shop? Since the breaks are fine and only the ABS is the problem, should I ignore it?

Looks like I need to purchase a new master cylinder for my 1992 Es300. In the past I purchased parts from Park Place Lexus located in Texas. They were good and shipping was UPS no charge. I see they want $207.67 for this part. I would appreciate knowing if there are other recommended places to purchase on line. Thanks.

The first problem is the brake light. Approximately two weeks ago it came on and has stayed on ever since. This was interesting because I had recently been using the emergency break while parking, so my immediate reaction was I did not fully dis-engage the emergency brake. I checked this, but not the problem. I then checked the reservoir under the hood and it was definately low. I bought Dot 3 and filled it up. However, the brake light never went off. Today, I checked it again, and it was low again (assuming I filled it all the way the first time). I filled it all the way up (this time I know I did), but again the brake light has not gone off. If I in fact filled it up the first time, this seems to indicate a leak. However, I can no signs under the car. In any case, I can't figure out why the brake light is not going out. Any ideas what is going on? The second problem seems to have started about the same time as the first. On the highway I went to use the cruise control. The green light on the dashboard goes on "cruise" when I press the button, however, I cannot get the cruise control to work. I press down on the lever, but the cruise control does not engage. Any thoughts? I had thought that the two problems might be connected because they happened about the same time and possibly the cause is the emergency brake needs adjusting to fully dis-engage. But, this would not answer why i needed to add brake fluid two times.

Yoysrme, thanks. I am able to purchase the mast which comes with the nylon gear from Park Place Lexus for $46.67. Where on line can I look for the Camry assembly and do you think it would be less? Also, I need to make certain it would come with the gear as this seems to be the origional problem.

Wrap a chamois or other protective cloth around mast nut and remove: Turn stereo on and remove the old mast: From inside trunk remove side panel: Remove antenea mounting screws and power connector: Disasemble motor assembly: Remove the old mast and pieces along with the new gear: Reassemble motor assembly and reinstall in car plug in power connector: Insert new mast into motor assembly and turn radio off while feeding the new mast in straight: Put antenea back on and replace the mast nut: Hope this helps. ← Wow! Thanks so much for the detailed instructions as well as the pictures. I gather my only other question before I purchase the mast with nylon gear, is based on my description, do you think the gear is the problem? I guess in any case I now need a new mast.

I had posted on this about three weeks ago and thought I resolved the problem. While I could hear the antenna motor trying to lower and raise the mast (every time either the radio was turned on and off or the car itself), it would not do anything and remain in the up position. I dis-connected the electrical harness (to stop the noise) and was fine up to this weekend. My sister decided to do me a favor and take the car to the car wash. Do I need to say more! I now need a new mast. I called Park Place Lexus this morning. They feel that since I can hear the antenna motor, the problem is most likely the nylon gear, which then say goes bad over time. Does this make sense? The cost for the new mast is $47 and they say comes with a new nylon gear. They also said it is not difficult to install, but will require 2 people. I have no mechanical abilities, so anything relating to a car, other than putting in gas, is difficult for me. Is there a site on line where I can print out directions to give a friend and I will become the second person. Thanks much.

Thanks for both replys. Since this is a bigger problem than I can handle and possibly more costly than I want to spend (I will however bring it to a place I know that specializes in this), I have another question. Is there a way to disconnect the motor so I do not have to hear the "grinding" sound every time I turn the car on and off (regardless of the radio being in the on or off position). If so, please instruct me how. If the mast remains up all the time, so be it, so long as I still get reception.

My antenna will not go up and down and is "stuck" in the up position. When I turn the radio on or off (or the ignition), I can hear the motor trying to do its thing. Almost a grinding noise and different from normal operation. When I push down and pull up on the mast, there is about a 6" play at the bottom where the mast enters in the housing. It almost seems as if there might be some type of clip at the bottom and it came un-done. Any thoughts as to what the problem is and how I may go about fixing it? Thanks much

Well, Toysrme and SK performance, despite your great help, it looks like I need to surrender. I figured the least I would try is to remove the shift bezel and not the console and spray some lubricant on the soleniod. However, the Haynes diagram must be different from my car. I cannot visibly see any clips to pry at the rear of the bezel and all I would be doing is chewing it up by forcing a screwdriver in there. I guess my soleniod doesn't like coke or 7-up! Too much sugar. While probably fruitless (at least without sugar) could I do any damage by trying to spray some silicone in the little opening at the bottom of the selector lever?

Yes, thanks much. No guarantee I will be able to do it, but worth a try. Last question (I promise you). if I can't follow the directions, can I go back to what I "think" SKperformance said and just try to spay some gunk in the small opening at the bottom of the shift lever handle? On second thought, it does not look too difficult to remove the plastic piece per your diagram. What type of gunk works? WD-40? Silicone spray? When you have 2 left hands and a brain that refuses to deal with these problems, life with cars is not easy!

When you know nothing about cars as I do, it tough (and expensive) and I am certain frustrating for you. SKperformance, as I do not know how to remove the center console cover (these were the directions I was looking for), I will start by spraying lube down in there. Is WD-40 fine? If not, what do you recommend. If this does not work and I cannot figure out how to remove the cover, I will take Toysrme's diagrams to the local mechanic and let him figure it out. Thanks.

SKperformance, thanks. Yes, the break lights are working fine. I have no idea how to clean the shift lock (I thought the shift lock soleniod and shift lock were the same thing) and am looking for assistence. Don't I have to remove the center console?

Looks like the Shift lock soleniod is the problem. I need to either clean or replace it. Does someone have a diagram as how to get to it. I assume the center console needs to be removed? Thanks. ←

Toysrme, first, thank you for your post. Do you mean that I am right that this problem has nothing to do with the alignment on Friday? Also, how would I go about inspecting the shift overlock? Hopefully if not difficult, I can do it myself. I spoke with someone who said it might be the shift lock cylonoid, shift lock computer or spring in the break? I do not have any lights on indicating a problem.

I certainly would appreciate an opinion or two regarding this problem. Specifically, what might be causing it and do you think it can be related to the 4 wheel alignment I had at the Toyota dealership on Friday. If so, I want to be prompt and go back to them today and not wait. Thanks.