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tpnotch420

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Everything posted by tpnotch420

  1. Here are some of the symptoms to ensure I'm going down the right path 1st the engine makes a constant noise (like the sound you make when giving someone a rasberry) and it gets louder as you accelorate. 2nd an occasional loss of power or hesitation 3rd I'm starting to smell exhaust fumes inside the car
  2. Yeah from what I've read it can be tricky with welding one on. So i've been looking at this product by Catco does anyone have any experience with this?
  3. My wife has a 1997 ES300 in need of a replacement catalytic converter. It looks like there are a couple of options. I can either order the direct fit cat and pipe setup for around $200 from Catco or I can have a new cat welded onto the exsisting pipe. Is either of these options better the the other outside of the obvious pricing difference? Thanks for any advice you can provide
  4. I have not had a chance to get a set of gauges to check yet. I'm still looking for somewhere to pick them up
  5. 92 SC400 my blower motor seems to be stuck on low. I have checked both the resistor and the power transistor and both checked out good per my service manual. I ran the Cliamte control diagnostics and came up with pressure switch problem. I'm pretty sure it'slow on freon. So when I try to add freon the gages indicate it's full so I think there is air in the line. From my research I've concluded that I probably need to get a vacuum pump to remove the air before I can refill it but I'm not sure.If there is another less expensive way to fix that I'm all ears as cash is tight right now. On the blower motor speeds I can't seem to find anything else that could be causing the problem. Is it possible that the low freon is causing this not to function as well or do I have a problem with my ECU? Sorry I forgot tomention that this system has been converted to134a before I got it and the ac worked fine for the last 3 or 4 summers Any help would be appreciated
  6. okay so I topped off the coolant and the heater is now functioning properly.next I need to replace the relays for fan #2 and #3 just wondering if it could be something else that I should be looking at if it's not the relay. is there a temperature sensor that sends a signal to turn the fans on and off
  7. It seems as thought the she noticed the heat a day or so later. I did check the radiator fans and they are not spinning it seems as though the relays fan #2 and #3 need to be replaced. I will cycle the heat and check the heater valve. I aslo read somewhere that if my coolant level is low, which it probably is after over heating, that would effect my heater output can anyone confirm this?
  8. Thanks I didn't think to check the fan I will look at that, but do you think that would effect the heater as well? that's what has me really stuck
  9. the other day my wife was warming up her car and we noticed the temperature gage was in the red so I thought it was the thermostat or water pump. Once the car is moving it drops down to normal. It only seems to run hot when the car is running but not moving for an extended period of time say 20 minutes or so. It runs hot in park or drive. the other symptom is when the car is running but not moving the heater blows cold air this happens weather the car is in park or drive. I can't seem to figure this out has anyone seen this before any help would be greatly appreciated
  10. I have a 92 sc400 and I'm recently having a problem getting it to start. I notice that when I insert the key I can't hear the fuel pump running so I decided to try the fule ecu bypass. After completing that the fuel pump fires right up without having the key inserted and the only way I can shut it off is to disconnect the jumpered wires. Anyone know what might be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated
  11. I need carpet (tan) interior door panel both sides (tan) back seat top and bottom (tan) gas door temperature control unit
  12. wikdsc thanks for the response Yes I did swap the relay under the hood there are actually 2 more relays that are the same as the EFI relay and I tried both of them and got the same response. I know it's possible but I just don't think all three relays could be bad. I will look for the specs on it and test it with my meter to ensure it's functioning properly
  13. yes when I try to start the car it cranks like it's trying to start that's all I get. I was gonna see if advanced auto has a fuel pressure tester so I can try to narrow down my search for the problem. You could very well be right I read some post that lead me to believe it might be the fuel pressure regulator. I just hope it's not the ECU
  14. thanks for the response UCF3 Currently the car is not starting what I've done so far tested ignition coils, cam position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, checked for spark at engine, I did discover the driver side cam position sensor wire had made contact with the belt and was grounding out, I've also replaced the battery with a new one without changing anything when I turn the key I hear no fuel pump when I either bypass the fuel pump ecu or jumper FP & +B on the diagnostic port under the hood nothing happens until I turn the key. after turning the key on I hear the fuel pump. The dampener screw rises to indicate pressure I can hear a hissing sound under the food by the FPR and I can feel fuel pressure in both fuel rails but I have not tested the pressure yet as I don't have a gage. when i turn the key off the fuel pump continues to run until I disconnect the battery
  15. would this likely be a fuel pressure problem or an electrical problem? if electrical is the likely culprit a grounded wire, bad sensor or a bad engine ecu if it's the ecu is there a diy test for the ecu or do I just need to replace it and see what happens?
  16. okay I have a 92 SC400 that won't start so after doing some research I thought I would troubleshoot the fuel system. When I turn the key on I can't hear the fuel pump running so I decided to try the FP ECU bypass to see if it's the pump or the ecu that is causing the problems. Now when I turn the key on I hear the fuel pump running, but when I turn it off the pump will continue to run until I either disconnect the battery or remove the EFI relay. I'm pretty sure the system isn't suppose to work like this. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Is it likely to be the engine ECU
  17. I pulled both ignition coils to test them because my car doesn't seem to be getting any spark I checked the voltage coming into both coils with ignition in the on position and got about 11.5 volts on both sides. Next I checked the primary and secondary on both coils. the results were the same for both primary was .8 ohms secondary was 11k ohms the secondary seems to be with specs but the fsm states the primary should be .4 to .5 ohms could .3 or.4 ohms be enough to keep my car from starting? I plan to pickup new coils this weekend
  18. Can anyone please tell me where my crankshaft position sensor is located Thanks in advance for the help
  19. here is the sensor I'm talking about does anyone know what this is?
  20. okay I managed to get hold of an fsm and the engine speed sensor i'm referencing is described as follows THE ENGINE RPM IS DETECTED BY THE ENGINE SPEED SENSOR INSTALLED IN THE CYLINDER BLOCK AND THE SIGNAL IS INPUT INTO TERMINAL NE OF ECU AS A CONTROL SIGNAL. when I test the ohms on this sensor it is nowhere near the acceptable range. I'm wondering if this is the same as the crankshaft position sensor. since I can't find that phrase in the manual. If so would a faulty one be enough to keep my car from starting
  21. I have a 92 sc400 and recently it died on me and I was not able to get it restarted. The engine does crank but it doesn't seem to be getting any fire. After doing some reseach on this sight I decided to check the fuel ecu but it seems to be working fine. After doing more research I started looking for a possible short and I found that the wire to the camshaft position sensor had been rubbing against the serpentine belt. So I seperated the wires and then put an ohm meter to both sensors and they seemed to test within the acceptable range. so after testing I've found the ignition coils and high tension cord are within specs but the speed sensor is not within the specs So i'm wondering if this is enough to keep my car from starting. Upon further research I've found that the speed sensor is supose to detect the crank angle. So I'm wondering if this is actually the crankshaft position sensor I've also checked the fuel ecu and the fuel pump and they both seem to be working. The engine seems to be getting fuel. When this fist started my original thought was that it's not getting fuel but now I'm starting to think that it's not getting any spark. I'm kinda short on cash so I'm really trying to avoid taking it to the shop. I'd run the obd test but in trying to get it started I ran the battery down so I'm sure the codes have been erased. If anyone has got any suggestions please share. I'd like to get some possible causes for the problem and how to test to see if part is good or bad thanks in advance for your help
  22. I just wanted to confirm that when your battery dies you also loose all error codes on your ecu and that there is no way to retrieve them again if your car won't start.
  23. I mentioned that now I'm getting no check engine light but I neglected to mention that my battery died. could that have reset the ecu error codes if so what can I do to get them back? will the come back even if the car won't start?
  24. thanks for the tip after several more attempts and a better repair job on the frayed wire I am now getting the CEL for a brief second when I start the car and then nothing, but my car still won't start. I'm really trying to avoid the cost of a mechanic if at all possible but it's not looking good
  25. after I changed the expansion valve what procedure should I follow to fill with refrigerant
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