skeemer

Seems to me that the solution would be to leave the car overnight since it seems like it only happens when the engine is cold. Even if you see the problem tomorrow, by the time you get to the dealer, the engine will be warm and the problem will go away. ← See thats the thing, the problem doesn't go away when the car warms up. Nor does it just all of a sudden appear while I'm driving. I know at startup whether or not I'm going to have the problem. If its happening when I first start, it will continue to happen until I turn the car off. If it isn't, then my trip will be fine. I did leave it over night, but I don't know when they looked at it.

Talked to service manager at Lexus today, he said they had 2 technicians look at it and could not duplicate or diagnose any problem (the car was running fine when I brought it in unfortunately). So problem is still present I guess. I will pick up the car tonight and bring it back right away if it happens again. It would be fantastic if the problem just disappeared, but I'd always have it in the back of my mind unless it gets fixed.

Well I dropped off the car today at our closest Lexus dealer, Lexus of Wilmington in Wilmington, DE. I didn't know I was supposed to make an appointment (never taken my car to a Lexus dealer before), so they might not get to it today. Also, I asked about a loaner but they said they only give loaners if I had bought the car from them. Anyways, hopefully they'll be able to diagnose it. Unfortunately, the car was running normally when I dropped it off, as its been an on-again, off-again thing.

This problem started about a month ago and still hasn't been fixed. One day I noticed when I first started up the car that it was idling at 750 or so (normal idle), instead of 1200-1400 for warm up. So I drove it around a little bit to see if it would warm up ok. As I drove around, every time I let my foot off the gas, the rpms would drop and it would stall out. So I took it to my mechanic and they said it was a little low on oil, they filled it back up and it was fine. A week later it started doing it to me again. I went to get lunch on my break at work and it was fine. When I left the restaurant it started stalling out again. This time my mechanic said the throttle plate had alot of gunk built up and was sticking, which would cause sensor problems and the car to shut off. So this fixed the problem for about 2 weeks. After this, when the problem crops up again it won't stall out when I take my foot off the gas, but it idles at around 250-300. Last Thursday the problem began agan when I was leaving for work in the morning. Took it to my mechanic and they said that the alternator was not charging the battery, so I was pretty much running on the battery when this was happening. Replaced the alternator and it was fine. Next day it began again when I left work. Took it to my mechanic and they put a new alternator on and it was fine for a little while, then started doing it again. Mechanic thought maybe a connection somewhere, possibly in the stereo since its aftermarket, might be loose and grounding it out, and shooting out the alternator. So he checked all the fuses and connections, and replugged and cleaned all the connections. It was fine then. and over the weekend. Took it out tonight and it started doing it again. There's no code being given. Any idea whats going on? To sum up: 1. RPMs drop to near zero when gas pedal is not depressed at all. Must give it gas when first started to keep it started, once it warms up a little bit then it will idle at around 250-300. 2. Low on oil, dirty throttle plate, and alternator have not been the cause of the problem. My mechanic is just as puzzled as I am. I don't want to have to take this to a dealer. Any help?

Good news everyone Thanks for all the input guys. I took my battery to Sears today and sure enough it flunked their charger, so I got a brand new battery. This makes me happy because it lets me know it was the battery and not a power leak somewhere that was draining it. And the lock problem is gone, must have been because of the low battery like you guys suggested. Thanks for all the help.

Its a Die Hard Silver (4 years I think, maybe it was 3 year warranty), should they replace/charge it for free at Sears?

Thanks for the quick replies. The clicking stopped when the fuse was removed. I guess I don't really have a fob, I meant the master key or whatever that has the lock/unlock button on it (I have a 92), so I can't start it with the fob/unlock button away from the car (I also didn't get a wallet key with this car). I also don't know about the security system. The clicking was going on at most for 2-3 hours, I don't know how long after I left the car and went inside that it started, and I was inside for those 2-3 hours when it could have started at any time. The clicking is coming from all 4 doors. I don't know anyone with a battery charger that I know of, aside from jumping it is there anything else I can try? I have all day today and tomorrow to try and figure this out and fix it on my own before I'd need to have it towed somewhere. EDIT: I just went out to try my key and the locks out again. Went out and tried pressing the button on my key and the doors all locked, pressed it again, unlocked, and tried it a 3rd time and nothing. The locks sound like they're trying to go but they don't switch. Tried the toggle switch on the door and same thing, they just make a click sound but don't switch. The constant clicking isnt happening anymore. The car still won't start, when I turn the key the instrument panel lights light up very faintly, as if they aren't getting enough power, but all the interior lights work fine. I pulled the fuse again and tried the locks and got the same result (shouldnt it not try at all if the fuse is out?). :(

Today started off like any normal day, I went to work and came home around 11:30 or so. Nothing out of the ordinary with my car. About 2 oclock I go outside to drive across campus and I hear a rapid clicking sound coming from my car. My keyless entry wouldnt work, and i used the key to open the door. The sound sounded like it was coming from the door, right around the power lock toggle. Tried to use the toggle both ways, and it didn't do anything, the clicking continued (this clicking is about 5 times a second or so). Tried to start the car, no dice. Not even the starter fires, the key just turns and theres nothing at all. Checked the fuses, all of them are intact. Noticed the dome light and door lights were flickering, changing the dome light to OFF changed the speed of the clicking sometimes, and other times stopped it, and other times did nothing. I also played with the buttons that depress when the door is closed to turn off the light. Finally decided to detach the battery cables and let the computer restart. Left it unplugged for about an hour, reattached the cables and the engine beeped at me (I've never disconnected the battery before so I don't know if this is normal), sounded like it was coming from the alternator area. Clicking continued but sometimes stopped or changed speeds. Last idea was to take apart my key fob incase it was sending a bad signal, but that didn't do anything either. Any ideas? I'm sure its something electronic but I'm unfamiliar with car electronics and am out of ideas. The noise stopped for good now, but the car still won't start. The battery is only a 1.5 years old (Die Hard Silver). To summarize: 1. Power locks are clicking 2. Disconnecting battery did nothing except make the engine beep when reconnected. 3. Interior lights flicker with clicking, dome light switch changes things but not consistently. 4. Fuses OK. 5. Car won't start, the starters don't even click. Thanks guys.

Thanks for the help guys, I ended up just going for the radiator replacement, since it was only $200 total for parts and labor. Now I have a metal pipe on top instead of a plastic one like before.

I noticed some smoke/steam coming from under my hood today, and when I checked, there was coolant beading up on the top of the radiator. There is a hairline crack, about 3 inches long, along the top pipe of the radiator. My car is at my mechanic now to be looked at in the morning, but I was wondering if this is something that could just be patched instead of replaced? I really don't have the money to replace it if it doesn't need it, and I know radiators are expensive. For a hairline crack is there anyway they could glue it or seal it shut? I only plan on having the car for another year and then will be trading it in to a dealer when I purchase a new car next september, so I'm really only worried about the car lasting me another year and 12k miles. Thanks for your help. Kevin

I'm an in-state student at a state university (University of Delaware), so my tuition is only about $6k/year. I have a few scholarships, I chip in $1k/year and my parents foot the rest. I have no loans and will be debt free coming out of college, thankfully. Then I'll be moving home for 1-2 years to save money so I can buy a car and maybe even buy a condo/townhouse, and I should be starting out making from $40-45k/year before overtime, so I figure I can probably afford a $25-35k car since I will have little to no expenses while living with my parents. And I would love a gs430 but I can't afford something like that. If I could, I'd probably get an m3 anyway (remember coupe coupe coupe :)).

I'm 21, I bought my ES about 14 months ago for $6k on the nose with the money I'd saved waiting tables for 4+ years part time and full time during summers. Before that I had a 96 Chevy Corsica that my parents got a deal on (company car auction, got it for $4k under KBB value). My brother and I shared that in high school and my first two years of college before I bought my ES last year. I'll be graduating next May with a Bachelor's in Civil Engineering and plan on buying a new car in the fall next year (once I'm working full time). I know it's early, but I've been thinking about a 350Z, an s2000, or an IS if they put out a coupe version in the 05 or 06 model year. Whatever it is, its going to be a coupe and its going to be fast. :) I know I'll probably be leaving Lexus for a while next year, unless they come through with the IS for me, but I expect to come back when I start to settle down (maybe an LS or SC if I'm lucky ;) ).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...3&category=6298 This is exactly what it looked like, although a different color. If I had had more than a few seconds to look at it I would have noticed it wasn't a true convertible most likely.

I saw a canvas top 02-04 ES today on my way to the bank in the richer part of Delaware (Greenville area for anyone familiar). I didn't know Lexus had produced a canvas top version, or am I mistaken? It had some sort of silver emblem on the C-pillar area of the top, just above and in front of the trunk. I didn't have much time to look at it but I'm sure it wasn't just a paint job, it was definately a convertible, and it looked like the emblem was some sort of limited/special edition emblem. The driver looked pretty elderly, not really the type who would indulge in radical body work. Was I just seeing things or did Lexus make these? I don't know if it was a 300 or 330, as I was turning and didn't get to see the tailend. word

Good news!! My mechanic was able to borrow a MAF sensor from someone rather than buying it to try it on my car, and it started it right up. So he bought the part from the guy and my car is back to normal again. $200 for the MAF + labor and $65 for the diagnosis, much better than I would have done at even a Toyota dealer, so I'm very happy. I think this is the last time I fool around with this engine. Next year when I buy an IS or similar type car after I graduate I plan on trying to become more mechanically savvy, but for now I'm content with letting others take care of it for me lest I screw it up again. Thanks for everyone's help.

The oil level is/was fine. I was coming up on 3000 miles this week so my mechanic is also changing that out while it in his place. I don't know about the PCV or the VSV. My mechanic got to take a look at my car today and couldn't figure out exactly what the problem was. I talked to him a little after noon today and he said they had put the scanner on and gotten no error codes, which doesn't surprise me since I never had any CELs. They checked all my wires and hoses and everything was attached properly. They're pretty puzzled, and he said he called a few other mechanics and nobody had any ideas. He thinks the MAF may have burned out or burned something out in the computer (if this is possible?). I believe he said if its the MAF its like $400 for the part and he thinks I should take it to a dealer. I had called a used Toyota/Lexus parts place the other day just to get an idea of a MAF price and they told me $125. What do you guys think? If it's the MAF sensor I believe my mechanic should be able to install the part himself, and if its $400+ for it would I be ok buying a used sensor? If he can't come to a conclusion should I take it to Toyota and see what they have to say? I would like to keep the cost to a minimum, but I also need this resoluted as quickly as possible because I am currently without transportation and I work 7am to after 5pm monday-friday. I don't think I can afford to take it to a Lexus dealer, despite the fact that I'd have a loaner if I took it to them. Any suggestions?

I checked every vacuum hose I could find. I found one unplugged, I believe its the EVAP hose coming off of the back-underside of the throttle body, and goes across the back of the intake manifold to the passenger side of the car. I reconnected this and tried again but no luck. Also, one of my spark plug wires was loose and I pushed that back in firmly and that made the hissing sound go away. I unplugged and replugged the MAF sensor but it still doesn't start. Before I plugged the EVAP hose back in I got the yellow oil light when the key was on, now I don't. I'm pretty confused here, and it looks like I'll be having it towed to my mechanic this afternoon. So no more hissing sound, and now a warning light doesn't show, but I still get the same problem trying to start it.

Thanks for the help guys. I tried the method from the website and from Toys and didn't get a CEL warning. I tried shorting it before and after turning the key to ON and didn't get the light either time. I also don't get the light when I try and start the car and it fails. What bothers me most is the sound coming from the engine when the key is ON, because I've never heard this before. Its a hissing sound, it sounds almost like bleeding air, and it comes from either the front fuel rail or something in that vicinity. I haven't been able to see or feel any leaks.

I posted the other day asking about engine cleaner for cleaning my throttle body. Today I took the intake and throttle body apart and cleaned it all out. I put everything back, bolted and screwed everything back on, hooked up all the hoses to the proper places, but it won't start. It starts turning over, and we can feel exhaust coming out of the tailpipe, but it won't run on its own. Normally when having trouble starting the engine if you give it some gas it will catch, and you can feel the fuel going into the engine through the pedal, but when I try that now there's no such feeling, as in theres not nearly as much resistance, it just feels like I'm pulling on the throttle cable. Also, one time after trying to start it I could hear a hissing sound coming from the front fuel rail and vibration in the fuel lines, but this went away after trying to start it again and hasn't come back again. I did spray alot of carburator cleaner (and it says its safe for O2 sensors and cat converters) into the manifold beyond the throttle body and tried to wipe as much of it as possible. Could this be the problem, or is my problem more serious? I didn't touch anything besides the throttle body and air intake, and all my disconnections were made from the throttle body end. Thanks for your help. :( EDIT: The hissing/vibration sound coming from the front fuel rail area happens whenever the key is in the ON position, not just that one time, and I would assume it happens while in the START position but I can't hear it over the engine. I've never heard this sound before with my key in the ON position before. EDIT 2: After reattaching the throttle body to the manifold, we had left the MAF sensor unplugged because we were unsure of putting it back in (7 pins). The Throttle Position Sensor was also unplugged, and the car started but ran very rough. We attached the TPS and started it and it ran fine for about 5 seconds and then stalled. This was reproduceable. Then we pushed the MAF sensor in and held it in by hand and the car started and ran normally (very smooth). We then screwed the MAF sensor back in and thats where we stand now. Also, when the car ran fine on its own, some dark gray smoke was coming out of the tailpipe (presumably the cleaner that was pulled in and sludge/buildup that was broken up by the cleaner but not removed?) It also smelled like burning aerosol.

I plan on removing and cleaning my air intake arm and throttle body, and perhaps some other easy to access parts of my engine (92 ES) this weekend and I had a few questions. What should I use to clean inside these parts? WD-40 or similar solvent and clean rag, or are paper towels fine? What things should I not use? Any other tips would be appreciated, as this is my first time cleaning an engine. BTW, I do have a Hayne's Repair manual just to be sure.

Nah, no more than a centimeter or two, or nothing that I've noticed atleast. And if there is any its been like that since I've got it because I would have noticed a change if it was getting worse.

I just started noticing this the other day. When I take turns at moderate to high speed (25+ mph) I feel a very slight sliding feeling for a split second. Its kind of hard to describe, its almost like the feeling when you start turning on ice and the car continues to go straight, but it only happens for a split second and then the car begins turning. Its very smooth, its not like the tires are jerking or dragging across the asphalt. I haven't had enough time to notice if it happens on concrete as well. None of my passangers have been able to notice it, so maybe its all in my mind, or maybe its because I'm connected to the pedal and the wheel. I've checked my tires and they're all at 34 psi (Michelin Pilots) on the stock 15" rims. Could this be my tires or my suspension, or is this all in my imagination?

A few years ago Sunoco used to sell "Economy" grade gas, for atleast $.05/gallon cheaper than Regular 87, but people weren't smart enough to buy it. They put the "economy" name to mean "not good enough." But the thing was, it was 87 octane gas, just for cheaper and with a different name, but the public was too afraid to change and Sunoco got rid of it after awhile.

This is where the majority of the population is fooled. It pretty much doesn't matter where you fill your tank up, all the gas is the same. Gas companies sell gas to other companies, and blend bought gas in with their own. What you're putting in your tank is likely not solely Sunoco (except perhaps the 94). There may be one or two exceptions to the rule, but generally gas companies sell and mix gas between other companies. Believe it or not, gasoline is not an oil company's biggest product, atleast not for Sunoco. Heating oil, butane, propane, asphalt, and other oil refining products are the bigger business. Gas companies don't make quite the profit people think they do. A gallon of gas that costs $1.50 at the pump may cost Sunoco almost $1.00 or even more than that when all costs and taxes are added in. My father has worked for Sunoco for almost two decades now, he likes to explain these things to me ;)

Thanks for the input guys. I will have to see whats most economical for me :D It's the only flaw on my car right now since its nice and shiny everywhere else