AzHotLS

Chip, Hutch hasn't been active on this forum for 5 years. You'd be better off starting a new topic with information of what your problem(s) are.

Parts cars can usually be found on craigslist.

It might be slightly different on a first gen car in that respect but I could not really say.

The toot is for first gen which the OP has so hopefully it applies.

@toothguy, a dentist by chance? Anyways, there is another toot for the primary O2 sensor on the lexls site. Maybe you've seen it.

He he. I just stepped in for one dance. Back to you...

Removing the gas pedal isn't mentioned in this tutorial:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/suboxygensensor.html

[not landar]

These "how tos" may not address your issues specifically, but worth checking out:

http://www.lextreme.com/tech_maintenance.html

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/

[/not landar]

If you do a "lost lug nut key" search on the 'net and possibly here, you'll find some good info on getting it off should you not be able to find a key that fits.

Discount Tire was a oft mentioned place in one thread I found.

Being in Arizona, I can't help you at all with your weather related question but I can say that my 95 is vastly more refined than my 90 was.

This LEXLS generations page may help you decide:

http://www.lexls.com/info/lsgenerations.html

So it's not shifting gears but your mechanic couldn't find anything wrong? It sounds like it's in too high of a gear, not down shifting.

The ECT switch in power position makes the transmission stay in gear longer (higher engine revs) before shifting.

Where is the beeping coming from? Inside the cabin, under/behind the dash, speakers, outside/under the hood? Knowing where the beeping is coming from may help locate the source.

Yep, check the cabin air filter. It's behind the glove box. Open the glove box and remove the panel in the back to get the filter cover.

I know I should buy a new one (they can be had for cheap on eBay), but as a temporary measure, I just flushed mine out with water in the opposite direction of the air flow. I let it dry for many hours before reinstalling it. It wasn't quite 100% dry but since there's not much humidity here in the desert, I wasn't worried about mold forming and knew it would be completly dry within a day or two.

If you hear a click and nothing more when trying to tilt the wheel, it could be an electical issue. However, put your ear down close to where the adjuster knob is, if you hear the tilt motor running, the link in this thread could help:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73170

@lswolfe77, if you think it's the master switch, one is available here:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls460-430-400-classifieds/613548-fs-parting-out-1997-ls400-gray-interior-parts-and-more.html

@M Xakir Kayani, since your issue is not related to this thread, you'll get better help is you start a new topic. However, if you washed your engine, you'll need to give it time to dry out. Did you cover the main electrical box with plastic? If not, open the cover to help it dry out. Gotta be patient.

The hose is covered with a rubber sheathing probably for heat protection. Wouldn't seem to leak or at least was detectable under pressure with the sheathing on, but when the system was off and the pressure was equalizing, beads of foam would appear after the sheathing was removed. Almost appeared to be coming out of the hose like sweat.

Bingo! That's exactly were it was leaking on my 90. It's tough to tell unless you get under there, as you did. Congrats on finding it.

How do the coolant tank cap gaskets look? You may want to replace the cap while your at it.

Also consider replacing the drain plug. It could be brittle and break when you drain some coolant before removing the thermostat. You do want to drain some otherwise you'll get quite a bit coming out, all over your serpantine belt. That means you'll need coolant too.

Just did this on my 95 this past Monday.

Not on the 95 to 97s (and maybe higher).

I felt like a dope after realizing this. After doing the "garden hose fix" on the steering wheel, I put the cover back on and needed to turn the steering wheel to get the other screw in. The key wouldn't turn so I thought it could be some security issue since I left the key in the ignition for so long. I even went so far as to shut the door, lock/unlock a few times, when that didn't work I came inside to search. Doh!! Apply pressure to the steering wheel. How silly.

Talk about timing. I just did this to my 95 on Saturday. Garden hose washer to the rescue!!

Spelling and grammar errors aside, you should get an ODB-II reader or take it to a place that has one to see if you have any codes.

@curiousB, I guess we just have to put on our decipher caps.

You don't say what your symptoms are or why you need a new starter. I "rebuilt" mine without removing it:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/4191291-post35.html

Dude, your post makes no sense. Besides, it doesn't appear to have anything to do with this subject. I suggest you start a new topic and give more detail.

It could be the spring that pulls the brake lever up after you release it isn't pulling it back far enough causing the light to stay on. My 90 did that some and by putting my foot in back of the lever and pulling back would get it so the light would go out. Try that to see if that's what happening to you.

Check the brake fluid level to make sure you're not low on fluid.

I guess you lost your original post. :chairshot:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71353

Just disconnect the connector at the power antenna. It's what I did (temporarily) when I was waiting for my new mast to arrive.

This thread on the other forum should help.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/324890-95-ls400-starter-dead-diy-replacement-in-progress.html

However, if you read my posts starting at 35, you'll see that I didn't remove them. My starter is still going strong without removing the starter completely, just replacing the contacts and plunger. While not recommended by most, I'm sure, it is something to consider.