Orlousy

I replaced mine with the Nakamichi SP-C452 as well, they sound as good as any.

If you replaced the alternator, typically you should replace the battery at the same time. Unless the battery is less than 2 or 3 years old, I would get a new one, but the batteries aren't cheap.

Same thing for me, it tends to happen every now and then and only when that car hasn't fully warmed up. I keep thinking it's a transmission problem, but I had that checked it the tranny passed with flying colors. If anyone has had this problem and did something that fixed it, please let us know.

Sewell Lexus is great for parts, I give them a big thums up as well.

I went to a place called start smart, they charged me $350 for the alternator with labor. I was quoted about $400 for the power steering pump with all the labor included, that adventure is comming up in a few weeks. Oh, they will try to sell you a new battery, which you probably need, and it was $125. Dealers will rip you off.

Falken z-512's are the best I have had, I highly recommend

I always get the coolant/oil smoke color backwards, thanks for reminding me.

if you drove the car untill it overheated and stopped, it probably froze up and it will never start again. It also sounds like with all the smoke you may have a cracked head gasket, which can also cause the engine the die, though white smoke is ussually oil, not coolant, coolant is ussually a blue color. Have you checked the oil level? In any case, $2000 for a SC engine installed with 50k miles is a good deal, probably much better than buying a new/used car. How many miles on your current engine?

I have read that replacing trans fluid on an old transmissions is actually kind of bad. Have you been doing it on a regular basis? I actually don't know if my fluid has been changed, it shifts just fine, but looking for some opinions before I spend the money and time to do it or my trans blows up.

I didn't know there was a such thing as a torgue converter. My car feels like the brakes are on untill you reach about 2500/3000 rpm, then I can feel it pull. Does the torque converter make driving in the rain impossible? (I live in Seattle) The traction control kicks in all the time in the rain now, i figure the converter makes you a bit more squirrly. Do you know how torque converter works, how does it increase lower rpm torque to the wheels? Is there something stock on the car that reduces the torque from the start?

95 SC400 with 132k, it's just broken as I see it!!

Mungrin.. If the patch kit worked that is probably the best way for me to go. That would be great if you could find the contact, just post it back here if you can find it. Thanks!!!!

It has actually worn out some of the foam underneath. At this point, for it to look good, replacement is my only choice. I had some ripps starting on the seat, so I just got leather glue to stop them going further, but it doesn't make the seat look better, just intact. If I replace the leather, I would like it to match, I have seen several palce selling replacement leather. Whether I want to patch it, replace the whole seat, or front seats, or the entire car I am not sure...but the cost for installing it is what I am worried about more than the material cost, but of course I don't want to get raped there either. Thanks for the info..just trying to weigh the cost/benefit of having it done.

I have a few tears on the left side of the driver side seat (wear and tear from getting in and out of the car). Has anyone had repair done or replaced the leather for an entire seat. I have seen seat covers on Ebay and various patching kits, but I want it to look good. Any suggestions?

I have heard of replacing the rear speakers with newer Nakamichi SPC452 speakers. They are about $40 each. Has anyone done this, if so, how do they sound, any problems? Any info would be helpfull. Thanks!

On pure speed, I would go with the XLR. Looking at reliability life and price, I would go for the SC. I think the XLR looks better. The SC has been around much longer, so any kinks should be worked out. The XLR is brand new, so there may be some growing pains (though not that I know of any). Other than that, all the cars probably have the same driver ammenities. What is most important to you in a car, comfort / performace / price ?

I don't know much about the mods, but as far as I see it, an IS is fancy Civic or actually a fancy Corolla for that matter. The SC is a better looking car, much more worth the money and with all the engine space around the I6, you will have room to work.

I don't think price is as good as the dealer, but it appears for a '93 SC it is a single key wit the button on it. I have found this website to be the best place to find stock parts for Lexus, prices aren't always the best on everything though. Check out this link for the key http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...D=22&ModelID=74

Don't know what state you are in, but you most likely won't pass inspection w/o the cat. converter. Beyond that, I have no experience removing them myself, there shouldn't be any negative side affects to you car.

sounds like problem with your tape deck, I have it wired the exact same way with my MP3 player and I get sound form all speakers.

Programing Instructions for Lexus Keyless Remote: 1. Start with key out of switch, drivers door open, all other doors and trunk closed, doors unlocked. 2. Insert key in ignition, DO NOT TURN ON, and remove key. 3. Using drivers side power door lock button, lock and unlock doors 5 times within 40 seconds, ending with doors unlocked. 4. Close drivers door and open it. Again lock and unlock doors 5 times within 40 seconds, ending with doors unlocked. 5. Insert key into ignition and turn from LOCK to ON to LOCK one time. Remove key from ignition. 6. Door locks will cycle one time. 7. Press lock button on transmitter for at least one second. Door locks will cycle. 10. Within 20 seconds, close drivers door and open it and press button on transmtter again for at least one second. 11. Door locks will cycle. Wait 20 seconds and registration will be completed. **if it does not work, start over from beginning, it may take several attempts. If it does not work, contact your local dealer.

I will post the programming instruction right here. I believe that all SC's '95 and older require the FCC code HYQ1512A. These do not have the option of the trunk pop. The 96's and newer have stand alone remotes that have unlock/lock/trunk/panic buttons on them. A good place to the find the replacement key is (price varies depending on year): www.lexus-parts.com

I have a '95 SC400 and I went through this about a year ago. My guess is the remote you have won't work, I believe that works for later models. Contact your dealer and find out what FCC ID will work with you car. The FCC ID for the '95 is HYQ1512A. It is actually a key itself with one button on it. I will post the programming instructions when I get home this evening. I believe these are universal for programing all Lexus.

I got a good $25,000 miles out the Continental ContiExtreme Contact on my 95 SC400 for about $67 a piece. They handled well, road noise was ok, got around somewhat in the snow, but I used chains most of the time. Overall I like the tires, but the price was higher the second time around, about $92 a piece.

What year is your car?, that makes a big difference! Also, what is frequency of the remote (series of letters and number on the remote)?