DEATH_AWAITS_YOU

I haven't done one in a long time, but if I'm not mistaken(and I never am), the way to get to it is from behind the radio. Using 1/4" extension and swivel socket. Not necessary to remove it though. Just use some double sided tape or zip ties to hold it in place so it doesn't rattle.

Lexus stands behind their parts one year/unlimited mileage, labor included if it is performed at a Lexus dealer. Our dealership stands behind our work parts and labor for as long as you own the car, as long as the work was performed in our shop. Plus, if you're getting a repair, we(Lexus dealers) supply you with a new Lexus loaner car in the meantime. I swear, I think the only people who are afraid to take their car to a Lexus dealer have never been to a Lexus dealer. It's all part of the ownership experience. There's a reason why we're the best!

Yes you can remove the trans alone if you access to a car hoist lift. I use what is called an engine support bar. The way it works is it rests on the strut tower and you chain it to the engine(be careful not to contact the windshield). This way, when you remove the subframe, the drivetrain will be suspended by the bar and chain. You will need a trans jack to lower the transaxle after you unbolt it from the engine. Transfer the the transfer case to the replacement transaxle(don't forget the splined shaft inside connecting transaxle to transfer case). Replace the rear main oil seal at the same time. Always use genuine Lexus parts. If you are looking for advice on how to do this, you may be in over your head. I've seen guys really struggle the first few times they try this, and that's with all the equipment necessary. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. BTW, if someone gave you this car, you're still way ahead of the game when you pay your dealer to replace it.

What the...? We're Lexus owners because we're smart and careful with money. The more you spend on a car the less you have in your wallet afterwards. You've got it backwards. If you pay dirt for your car, then you'd have more spare change to take it to the dealer. I love when you guys bring your car to me after some chop-shop just "saved" you a few bucks.

Remember one simple truth-It WILL come off! Don't worry, you won't break anything. Use a screw driver or pry bar at the pivot to pry it loose.

There are only two bolts you need to remove. The small adjuster bolt at the bottom, and the large pivot bolt at the top.

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish but, the TRAC sytem is an integral part of your engine and braking system.

Your first concern is the intake timing gears rattling when starting until oil pressure builds up. The second concern is due to carbon build-up on the valves. The dealer will replace your timing gears and do a top engine cleaning to take care of both of these concerns. Both are covered under your powertrain warranty for 6years/70,000 miles.

I don't have the luxury of "trying" different things to see what works. I have to be right the first time and, I now know I am also correct. Check aftermarket suppliers for a replacement cat/conv($400-$600). I used one on the last one I did a couple of weeks ago and it worked pretty well. Not as efficient as OE when watching on data stream, but enough to keep the light off and work.

Recall BLA is for the Fuel Pressure Sensor, not a fuel mixture sensor. The sensor is located on the back of the fuel rail beneath the intake near throttle body.

Check ALL fuses(cig, radio). If ALL are good, replace radio.

You need a Bank2 (passenger side) catalytic converter. Stop swapping parts, you're wasting time. I've seen it a hundred times.

Oh my God. If you do this wrong, you are going to be soooo sorry!

I've seen it a hundred times. I don't imagine you have access to a Techstream. If you did, you would see fuel trim way out of range. Indicator that the ECU is trying to increase fuel mixture to compensate for a false signal from the MAF sensor. It thinks it's getting too much air. Usually caused by cheap aftermarket air filters with too much oil content contaminating the sensor. I've heard of guys getting away with cleaning them but it's never worked for me. Don't buy a used one. Don't buy one aftermarket(usually just used ones cleaned and resold). Buy new from the dealer. You should notice an increase in fuel economy and throttle response. Flush out your IAC Valve and throttle body while you're at it.

We charge $550. They're probably selling you a lot "Preventative Maintenance" that you really don't need. BTW, I can't imagine doing this job in my driveway with only hand tools. If this is your first one(and you'll probably never do another), It would be worth the $550 to pay the dealer. Ask your dealer how much for just the timing belt replacement. Unless you have leaks from the front of the engine, you don't need to replace anything else.

Don't replace your A/F sensors. The problem is with your converter(s). Unfortunately, the early models didn't differentiate which of the three converters was at fault. You can try one at a time or just forget about it. Don't know about emission testing in your area. People usually get very discouraged when I tell them it may be any one of three very expensive parts.

You're BOTH wrong! If cleaning your Idle Air Control Valve doesn't fix your idle concern, you will need to replace it. Lexi's p0171 code is a failing Mass Air Flow Meter.

WTF is an SMH?

LOL! Lefty loosey, righty tighty. Not reverse thread. Let me know how long it takes you. My last one took 45 minutes! I wish I could get a case of beer and a lawn chair to watch a newbie do that one!

You people are amazing! You spend a nice piece of change on some of the best cars ever built and cry about paying factory trained professionals servicing your car! Instead, you pay some hacker a few dollars less to make your car worse than when you brought it in! What if they broke those sensors? How much was all that grief and aggrevation worth? Aftermarket parts? Seriously? No one makes better parts for your car than Lexus! You guys aren't Lexus owners. You're Chevy owners with Lexus key fobs. Real Lexus owners bring their car to the dealer because they wouldn't let those aftermarket chop shops touch their car.

The warranty time to replace the servo(s) on your vehicle is about 6.0 labor hours. If this is the time they are using to estimate your repair, they are not being fair to you. The time quoted includes removing the instrument panel. This, however, is not completely necessary and there are short cuts to getting at one. I assume they actually tried to operate the different servos to determine which one(s) were needed and not just recommending you replace all of them.

Sounds like your key transponder is not being recognized. Does the remote for the door locks work? Did the key get wet? Do you have another key?

Why is the sales manager talking about an exhaust system? I suspect you have an MIL for catalyst inefficiency and the tech working on your car would rather use "shotgun diagnostics" rather than pin-pointing your concern. BTW, the '98 GS400 has two catalytic convertors (Three-Way Catalyst). One on the left bank (bank one), and one on the right bank(bank two).

My advice IS from a dealer!