Mike813

its a pretty easy change. only thing to becareful of is the O-rings. if they get cruched/damaged in the process toyota does NOT carry replacements for them, youll have to find another source. one other thing is when you re-install the filter becareful the black hose does not kink onto the floating leveler. it will throw off your gas gauge and will NOT trigger the low gas light even if youre down to empty. it happened to me, lucky there was a gas station right by me.

if you have a voltmeter (rent one at autozone), touch both of the battery terminals with the meter with the car running. if it reads anything below 14v then its your alternator not supplying the charge. if it reads steady 14v then its your battery that needs to be replaced. dont trust the autozone guys if you dont know em. theyll drag this giant machine to your car and take about like 20 min to figure it out when all you need is a voltmeter to tell you the same info a little meter in 5 seconds

whiteys tire Atlantic ave in Brooklyn NY. bad customer service at the counter but the workers in the back know what theyre doing.

Im currently using a jdm visor made by toyota. its a smokey dark gray and it uses both 3m tape + 2 clips each window to properly secure it to the window. its been over 2 years since ive had it now and very minimal of the glue on the visor is showing tear but still storng enough to withstand the climates we get here in NY. i got mine from here http://www.nigel-jdmparts.com/

im from NYC where 100% of our stations are now 10% mixed and I do frequently drive out to NJ where only a handful of stations started to use the 10% mix. from comparison there is a slight drop in MPG (NYC gas 14-16 mpg, NJ gas 15-17 MPG) but not enough to really notice any performance losses.

when was the last time the transmission oil was checked/changed? you can give that a try first since its the cheapest. a dealer would easily hit you with a 60$+ bill just to scan your vehicle.

youre suppose to have the cel's reset. how often do you change your oil? brand of oil? are you the original owner? if the car was properly maintained it should not have clogged 100% it takes alot to clog those filters up since its only a mesh screen. i had mine changed at my 100k service 5-6$ part and it was clear/clean.

there is a dealer option i believe called the "c-best" option. the car has to be programmed to open/close the windows with the keys. maybe the old owner of the vehicle never had it programmed? i would try removing the power from the battery for a bit and hope for the best. its a long shot but its a try. does the panic button work?

a friend of mine had a slow electric motor sound when his servo motor was about to go. it was not a "clicking", hope that can eliminate one of the items you have on the list.

it def seems to be your key fob, try opening the case again and see if the contact points are worn or damaged. If that does not fix the problem then i believe you need a new master key. they go for roughly 140-170$ new.

i just recently did a full timing belt job about 2 months ago on my gs300 this was my list of parts below. I changed the pulley because ive read it is prone to leak once you do a timing belt job change. im planning to keep the vehicle for a while so a peace of mind is better than a giant oil spill all over the timing belt which will degrade the belt if left for a while. Name: QTY: PRICE: PUMP ASSY WATER L/C 1 $120.04 GASKET WATER PUMP 1 $6.91 RING O 1 $2.27 GASKET WATER INLET 1 $2.74 SEAL TYPE T OIL 1 $10.28 SEAL TYPE T OIL 2 $10.56 BELT V-RIBBED 1 $24.82 THERMOSTAT 1 $14.58 GASKET WATER INLET 1 $4.04 IDLER SUB-ASSY TIMI 1 $63.73 BELT TIMING 1 $24.94 TENSIONER ASSY TIMI 1 $57.06 PULLEY, CAMSHAFT TIMING, LH 1 $131.35