ml30306

Thanks for the info, LL! I have some questions if you don't mind: 1. I would also like to drain the differential - any reason why you filled in the fluid with a hose directly and not through the dipstick opening? I thought the transmission fluid is one circuit and not broken up - am I wrong? 2. I read that it is also recommended to drain the fluids, then turn on the engine, go through all gears a few times, then turn off to get more fluid out. Also read that some add t-fluid into a funnel, then run through the procedure until clear red fluid comes out, then turn off the engine. Same prcudre is also done when the car is filled back up. 3. So the only way to really get out all fluid would be to do a mechainc flush, a procedure Lexus does not recommend? 4. I purchased Valvoline MaxLife Universal ATF Dexron III Mercon - good choice? Or does it have to be Toyota Type IV?

Hello everyone, does anyone have some clear instructions on how to change the transmission fluid on a Lexus ES300 2000? I have the repair manual, but it really is not clear. I found this post for an RX300 (http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/220061-photo-diy-rx300-awd-transmission-fluid-pan-filter-change.html), great description, but not sure if this is anywhere the same for a 2000 ES300. Pictures are always great but I can do without as well. Just looking for some simple instructions (how many drain plugs, which hose(s) to remove (input or output and their location). I also plan on dropping the pan and replacing the filter and gasket. Also wanted to get some input on drain vs. flush. I was told by one of the Atlanta Lexus Dealerships that they do not recommend a flush. BTW - I plan to use Valvoline MaxLife Universal ATF Dexron III Mercon. I have no idea what is in the car right now. Any thoughts on any of these topics?

Login to your account, go to page 1 of this thread and the instructions are on that page with pictures.

Thanks, glad I got a reply to at least one of my questions I have posted in this Forum! This is the first Lexus (and first car with automatic transmission) I have owned, still figuring things out. I will then assume that the gas gauge will stay at the level regardless of engine ON or OFF. Any insight on the gas needle resistance? The problem I am trying to eliminate is that my gas receiver in the instrument cluster shows beyond full when I fill up. I asked 2 mechanics, one says fuel gauge, the other sending unit. I removed my sending unit yesterday, checked the wires for any physical damage, also cleaned the plate inside. I filled my car up today and it still goes beyond the FULL mark, though a bit less. Checking the fuel gauge is next.

I recently purchased a 2000 Lexus ES300. This being my first Lexus, a short question: When the car is turned off, will the fuel gauge go back to empty or remain in the position of the fuel level? I believe that most cars will have that gas needle go to empty, once the engine is turned on the needle will jump to the actual fuel level. I also noticed when I removed the instrument cluster that the temperature, speedometer, and tachometer needles can easily be moved without much resistance. The fuel needle has a lot more resistance. Is that normal?

I own a 2000 Lexus ES300. Today I removed the fuel sending unit and noticed that the ground wire has a little clip on the end which attaches to the body of the car within the fuel tank. Question: What is the correct placement of that ground wire? I am surprised that it is not screwed in somewhere, the clip is pretty flimsy. Is the a post or an edge inside the tank where it clips on? I have placed it back where it was - the fuel sending unit opening has 2 metal lips, I clipped it to the one closest to the wire attached to the unit. It kept trying to slide off, but I assume at this point it is connected. Not sure if that is the correct place, have had a problem with the fuel display inside my car and I am trying to eliminate errors. Any input is appreciated!

One more thing to be added: The 3 screws are really horrible to remove. I was lucky on 2, the last one would only turn using a regular small vise-grip wrench. Glad it worked since the head was almost completely stripped. ---->>>> It is well worth the time and money to replace those screws with hex bolts. I got 3 at ACE, 3 bolts size M6 - 1.00 pitch plus 3 washers. TOTAL COST = $3.52. They work well.

I just did this procedure on my 2000 Lexus ES300. It is just slightly different since I had to remove one more hose on top of the box that connects to the 3 air intake hoses. I did not have an idling problem, I just notice that when I cold start the engine the RPM's are at around 1700 before they go down, which I assume is normal from what I read? I did want to check though if there was any dirt inside the IACV, there sure was. I used some clean rags and rubbing alcohol, making sure I cleaned off any moisture and I let the items sit for a while for the alcohol to evaporate. I will call this "preventative maintenance" in my case. The directions are very precise, clear, and easy to follow. Thanks again for posting them, wish there was more procedures like yours on this site!!!

The issue has NOT been resolved. Whenever I fill up the tank the needle still goes beyond full. This is what I have done thus far: - I have removed the backseat, removed the fuel assembly from the tank. With the key turned to the ON position, I pressed the floater to full and the needle slowly creeps to the beyond full point. - Then I pressed the floater to empty. The needle slwoly goes to EMPTY with the warning light coming on before reaching empty. - I noticed when I removed the fuel assembly that a wire that was attached to the metal rim was very loose. So here my questions: 1. What happens when you disconnect this wire (I assume it is the ground wire from the unit)? Would this cause the needle to move beyond full? 2. I have had 2 mechanics look into the problem, not sure how thorough they were. One says I have a bad fuel gauge, the other says it is the fuel sending unit. I guess it could also be a faulty wire, any other ideas? 3. I read that the floater actually bounces around inside the tank while driving, hence the delay in showing the actual fuel level. Before examining the electrical parts I usually look at the mechanical one's. Is it possible the the connectors of the floater have been worn down? Also, is it possible that the floater has been bent so that the gauge reads beyond full?

I recently purchased a 2000 Lexus ES300. During my first night drives I noticed that some of the Stereo System and Climate Control backlights have burned out. From doing some research on this and other sites I have read that the little bulbs can be replaced by disassembling the systems, removing the burnt bulbs, and replacing them with the new one's whoch have to be soldered in. I also noticed that the small left cluster for outside mirror adjustment, instrument brightness, and trunk/gas has no light. I popped out and disconnected the wiring harnesses to find that apparently that only the mirror has a backlight - a small bulb attached to a red base that reads TSD 15 V-2. Can anyone confirm that that is the only lightbulb in that cluster? Do the brightness and trunk/gas buttons even have backlights? IT would be great to know before I further breakdown the parts and possibly damage some of the plastic snaps since this is a pretty tedious process. Does anyone have a good source for this mirror backlight bulb and/or the Stereo/Climate Control bulbs? Can anyone provide a lighting diagram with all bulbs for the ES300? I have checked in the Repair Manual but could not find the information I need. Would greatly appreciate any help!

Issue has NOT been resolved, see below.

Purchased a 2000 Lexus ES300 2 days ago, 125,000 miles. The seller sold me tha car with a "full gas tank". After driving it now for about 30 miles now though the needle did not move. This is what I have done thus far: 1. Removed plastic instrument cluster cover and moved the needle manually to E. After turning on the car the needle slowly returns to beyond the FULL point. Did that twice, same result. 3. While driving today slightly downhill the needle moved to 1/2 full. It hovered around 1/2 full, went up a bit, down a bit, then slowly returned to past the FULL point after a few minutes. 3. Went to the gas station to see if the tank was actually full. The car took $36.00 in gas. Needle never changed. Any ideas, suggestions? I have of course researched the topic - causes could be bad gauge, stuck float, wire dislocated/torn/disconnected, bad sending unit. I am thinking that perhaps No. 2 here may give some more insight into the problem, have not seen it posted before. I would greatly appreciate any ideas, diagnostic test ideas, etc. before bringing the car I just purchased into the shop for this problem. THANK YOU!