Se7enRed7

I didn't wait until failure. I didn't notice the problem until the alternator was already losing output.

I don't post here much, due to time constraints, but I occasionally lurk. Has anyone had issues with the alternator on a GS having decreased output due to oil leaking from above? It seems possible due to reduced cooling capacity, grime around the brushes, etc..My o-ring from my distributor is leaking, causing nasty buildup on my alternator. At night, i have to turn off my stereo because my lights dim, and i can't run my AC fan to maximum due to current draw. Has anyone had luck cleaning off an alternator, or will this need replaced? I have a pretty hefty sound system but the mono amplifier is currently disconnected. If i'm replacing the alternator, i'm going to go with the 145A instead of the 80A. Stereo is ~1500W...peak or RMS i'm unsure of. 80A*14.5V = 1160W 145A * 14.5V = 2102W

wow, where did you get that? It was helpful. Well, my brake fluid reservoir is 3/4 full. Three things left to check. The next "day off" will be spent hunting down the TRAC and ABS ECU, as well as the TRAC actuator and accumulator. The only part that might be hard to find is the ECU. Does anyone know where that's located? Some other toyotas have the ABS ECU in the trunk.

Hi. I have a 94 GS with 84K miles and am having problems with code 54 or "TRAC pump motor operation frequency excessive" I'll be driving along and at random, typically on dry and straight roads, the TRAC light will come on until the vehicle is turned off. I checked the forums here and read the trouble code. Could a wheel speed sensor be the culprit? where are the sensors located? Maybe I'm way off base and this has nothing to do with a speed sensor. What could be the culprit? Any info will be appreciated :)

Thanks for the reply. The dimmer is not all the way down. Fortunately, the shop has committed to fixing their mistake. Thanks.

Thanks! Lookin forward to the confirmation.

Does anyone know for sure if there are lights that illuminate the wording such as the "auto" button or "ac" on the climate control panel in the first gen. GS300's? I'm quite sure there are, however, when i took my car in to get a new stereo put in, when i got the car back, there was no illumination of the words. There are lights on the panel, but i cant read what the buttons say. I just want to make sure there are lights there, before i complain to the installer.

Larry H. Miller Lexus in Sandy, Utah has a 1990 LS400 in the showroom - Perfect condition with origional engine and transmission (never rebuilt), origional paint and seats....with 525,000 miles on it. *edit: Not Sandy - Murray UT

1994 GS300 71,000 Miles

Before reding this post, realize i'm an electronics technician. If it's the amp, typically what will happen is solders will break loose, or there will be physical damage to the board or component, causing an open or short. If you're technically inclined, open up your amplifier and look for visible defects (black spots, white residue, or a somewhat fishy smell). The smell means a bad capacitor and is usually accompanied by white residue...If a component is bad, a new component can be bought at radio shack or ordered online from allied electronics. If a solder is bad, just resolder. Dust can also cause heat problems (thermal runaway)..make sure the board is clean. To most people fixing it just isn't worth the time. If you decide to get a new one...i'll pay shipping to take the old one off your hands.

Turning the traction control off for better traction seems counterintuitive...I'd have to have a substantial reason to believe and try that one.

you need speakers. i'm dropping some cash right now too for new component speakers. check these out. Phoenix Gold Octane Z Some people run speakers off deck power when they have woofers. It's an option, but I dont think it's the greatest choice. If I were going to spend the money on a new head unit, amplifier and subwoofers, I'd spend some extra cash and make my mid and high frequencies sound as good as my low frequency. I'd get a 2 ohm amplifier which is designed to drive subwoofers . I wont do the math, but maximum power transfer occurs when output impedance is equal to the internal impedance of your amplifier....so put two 4 ohm woofers in parallel and get a 2 ohm amplifier. You may also want to consider the size of your box. Some subwoofers require more box volume than others. The size of your power wire is also important. Electrons see wire like water sees a hose. The bigger the hose, the more water can flow through it. Get 4 guage for both power and ground. Dynamat your trunk (reduces unwanted noise) Last but not least, they may be charging too much. Visit PriceGrabber.com and look in their car audio stuff. They'll find the lowest price around for any specific component or class of components. You probably knew and considered most of this stuff, but i'm just bored and had nothing better to do than write a long post.,

nope not factory amp. all phoenix gold speakers, woofer, and amplifiers driven by a nakamichi CD45Z head unit. Just took all my stuff out of my old 3000GT and i'm getting ready for an install. pics to come :) P.S. thanks for the quick reply.

will a 12" subwoofer fit where the existing nakamichi subwoofer fits...facing up from the "trunk"? I figure it's a 10" thats in there now, but just wondering if anyone tried it or had an opinion on a different solution.