SirSam

Fuel pump ECU is behind drivers side rear kick panel. I had the issue on my 92 Sc400 were when it was hot it would not start back up. To test, wait till the car is warm & when it doesn't start jump with a paper clip terminals E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic port in the engine bay, use this link. V8 Diagnostics Port

First off....LOL Second, how in the world is your "water pump" leaking on your alternator? Do you mean the power steering pump?

My heart skipped a beat when I actually thought I was gonna get the manual :( You have to repost link with full url, your missing whats in between the "......"'s

My car sputtered also, I figured it must be fuel pump, spark plugs, or PCV/air compression somewhere. I replaced the Spark Plugs & wires & now it runs without any sputter.

Let me know how this turns out for you, I have an issue where the heat will only kick in when I am driving over 15mph it is very odd. I just replaced my thermostat 3 weeks ago & all was working well until a couple days ago, the gauge starts rising & then goes down when I start moving. If I turn the heat on it'll kick the needle back down to normal but only when I start driving over 15mph. I'm trying to remedy it.

I had the same problem a while back. I had to replace a main fuse in the engine fuse box, I'll try & find the previous post but I don't remember which one it was off the top of my head. I'll have to go look in the fuse box.

I went ahead & got the set to replace them all, don't feel like messing with broken wires after everything was reinstalled. Also the ones I got I ordered from Autozone (In stock) were for my car. Now they say gapped at 0.44, but my manual says 0.43. Will that .01 make much of a difference & cause any problems? Why would the ones specifically for my car be gapped wrong?

I've done forum searching, couldn't find anything related to this. Does anyone know where I can buy individual spark plug wires instead of the entire set because the sets are pricey & I really don't have the money to buy the entire set right now. I decided to change my spark plugs because its been almost 60,000 miles & my fuel mileage has been getting worse & I was also doing an oil change. So, alas no matter how gentle I was the #3 wire that attaches to the spark plug broke off inside the casing. After looking at it, it seems the wire has aged enough to corrode the metal wiring inside it & it became brittle. Probably not smart but is there anyway to repair it? So basically is there a place anyone knows of where I can buy the wires individually? So far after doing some research only sets are sold: Napa $140.99 Advance Discount Auto Parts $117.99 Pepboys $69.99 5 year warranty Autozone $91 Lifetime Warranty Amazing the price fluctuations. Also I bought NGK spark plugs that was listed for my car & the Gap is 0.44, do I need to make any adjustments? Thanks for any info!

Could anyone give me some ideas or past experiences that you might have had with your steering wheel tilt having problems or fixing it? Maybe diagrams things to try/Test, fuses to check? I have already looked at these posts: Post #1 Post #2 It is not a Post #1 issue as I have attempted this & still get no results. Telescopic (In & Out) work, Tilt (Up&Down) do not. When I use the button to go up or down it does nothing, no noise, no movement. Now the dash board underneath of the steering column & everything I can not seem to get that off for the life of me. I've taken all the screws off & it seems to be somehow attached behind to something (not the bracket which slides over the steering column) which seems to be unreachable. I would like to do a step by step to cancel possibilities out, thanks for any help anyone can provide.

I was looking through all the posts I've made to research my a/c & happened to run across it. So anyways after all is said & done, yea I've been married for almost 2 years & things change, I haven't been pulled over in over 3 years & haven't hit 3 digits in probably the same amount of time also, it's called life & other things become more important to live for. A story that many in life & probably many on this BB have gone through.

The Show Stopper! Nice last post. I can't believe I came back to this post, moderators might want to lock or close it.

Update: I have finally got it fixed 4 days ago. The Schrader valves are replaceable with your standard bike tire valve stems. However if you are doing the retrofit remove the lowside schrader valve! (which means you will have to do a system evac regardless you want to or not) The Low side retrofit fitting has a valve stem already in the fitting & if previous schrader valve is left in place on the stock line means that it will constantly be engaged open, draining all freon even during a charge. I had a leak test performed on it & it seems o-rings were not fitted properly on the reservoir/drier & it was also leaking. Hope this helps anyone who is having the same problem as I was & sure hope it doesn't take you as long as it took me lol.

I called Carquest & they said they don't sell Fuel pump ecu's. Which I just realized you said pump not ecu. :)

It tells you in the link on the first post :) http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...stalls&st=0 Which leads to: http://web.ukonline.co.uk/soarertt/electrical.htm I'm having the same problem, starts up then dies.

I might have to bite the bullet & take it to a shop to test out the system. I have done R134a retrofits in other vehicles before & never have I ever had the valves blow out until now. Compressor kicked on & I felt cold air briefly, was still in low 10 psi then bam shot up to 60psi not sure WTH happened.

http://www.kbb.com

Does anyone know if the valves on the high & low side ports are just valve stems & are they replaceable?

I corrected the issue, it had to do with Display Modes under options on the actual post which are Outline, Standard, or Linear+.

I haven't changed any settings so I am assuming this is new to the board. Is there a way for me to change replies to posts back to all viewable at one time on the page instead of having to click each one individually to view one at a time?

With a few searches in this forum you should find all the info you need on this. Low side is on compressor itself, & high side is port that sticks up on top next to radiator drivers side. Just in case you don't know you can't mix R-12 & R-134 so make sure you know whats in it first before recharging.

Yes thank you I can now move forward, it is hiding sneakily under the driver side headlight, now the trick is to maneuver up in there to remove the 2 lines. As for the stealer ship I can get the same exact part at 4 different stores for half price which i did. Thanks for the replies.

Can you tell me where the A/C dryer is located, maybe a diagram? I don't see a 2nd one anywhere in the engine.

Hello, I've for months been trying to replace my Accumulator AKA Drier/Receiver for my A/c system. I have already completely vacuumed out the R12 at a shop & put new fittings on for R134, all i want to do is replace the accumulator because it looks like it has never ever been done. I've been to over 4 different named auto parts stores, Toyota, & Lexus & their parts are to Long in height & they all said they can't help me! I need one that is no longer than 6 inch's to fit into the bracket (the same size as the one currently in there). As my long journey of searching online has continued I found a pic on eBay of a Accumulator Pump LEXUS SC400 W/ Traction Control that looks exactly like what I have on my car. Link to eBay Item This is is what i'm trying to replace 92 SC400 Drier/Receiver/Accumulator Now my question here is: 1. Are there two separate accumulators, one for A/C & one for traction control. 2. Is there one & is it used for both the A/C & Traction Control System, or 3. Is that eBay listing just misleading? If this is the correct accumulator for the A/C system how do i get it to fit without cutting off the bottom bracket. If it is not the correct accumulator where is the A/C accumulator located in the engine? That accumulators fittings & looks are all exactly the same except for the height. It's amazing how frustrating something so simple can be. I would love to avoid heat exhaustion this month :) Thank you for any help & replies anyone can give me.

I was wondering if anyone has the size dimensions of a stock A/C Drier/Receiver, because I am converting my system over to R134 & I want to replace the Drier before I do that. The stock one I bought is 2 inches longer than the one that is currently in my car & does not fit into the bracket that original is on, & there is also some kind of sensor coming out that isn't on the new one. Here is the one i purchased: First I was looking around online for some more, but not quite sure of the dimension of these: Second I'll try to post some pics of my own of the old & the new as soon as I get a chance. I had the system completely evacuated at a shop for the pre conversion but I noticed the drier when i took it off was full of what looked like A/C oil, is it suppose to be like that? Also if anyone has a diagram of the A/C system in PDF or anything else I could really use it, really appreciate it.

It usually won't make noise unless its out of fluid. I wouldn't recommend using it without fluid which takes Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dextron III). Are there any leaks that you can see? Try running engine with the cap off it & turn wheel back & forth all the way a few times & see if you see air bubbles. If not then it may be something else wrong with the pump, how long have you had it? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/