ArmyofOne

i don't know if there is a company out there taht can do it since i think it's illegal.  But i believe if u bring it to Lexus... they will do it for a fee.  That's wut i heard... but i'm not 100% sure about it.  Perhaps someone else can give u better info about it.

Good luck  B)

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if its a digital Odo, then you cant do it, but if its not (and im assuming its not since you posted this) then it can be done simply by removing the speedo/tach gaunge (whichever yours is in, i bleieve the speedo) and put your old one in there. if that old speedo doesnt work, i cant help ya...sorry

i found something...

1987 Nissan 300ZX T-Top. All Maintenance records kept. only problem is a fairly persistent power steering leak. refill once a month. 160K, new clutch, rear main seal plugs and wires, $1500. the guy is a dude i know (well enough to know he takes care of his cars, as he is a certified mechanic). other than that, its in damned good shape for its age, some oxidation on front and rear bumpers only.

he says he cant hold it, but it is on the market for $1800, if it sells for that he wont hold it, should i go for it? carfax comes up clean as well.

Tell me about it! I'm the same way, I do a few cars on the side but I draw the line when it cuts into time I'm working, my weekends, or the time when I want to be detailing my own car. Sometimes its really hard to tell people no, especially when they want me to do their car so bad...

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Steve,

You are the closest to me so i guess i will be there tomorrow. What time is good for you? lol

j/k

My husband usually does my car and he has been so busy that i am about ready to do it myself. :whistles: The only bad thing about it is that i don't know how to use the buffer thing. lol I'm sure that i could figure it out it is that i don't want to figure it out. :D

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i dont use a buffer, nothing that goes in swirls/circles ever comes near a car from my hands.

its easier to get rid of a car that doesnt leak than one that does.

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good point and good luck.

It just dawned on me, why do you want to buy a new car if you are shipping out in FEB. Will someone at home you trust be driving/using your new car or will it sit while you are away.

Here is an idea, work with Jason on getting your ES250 up to a satisfactory condition. Drive it till Feb and sell it just before your leave or have someone sell it

while your are gone. Save most of your pay while you are on duty and then put a sizable downpayment on a nice new car. The sizable downpayment will help you secure a larger loan.

Just a thought.

sj

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That's a good thought. I was thinking the same thing.

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thats the plan, but if this car is going to die on me between now and then, then what? LOL.

yes, my brother or dad would drive my car while i am away, probably my dad, since my borther is just getting his liscesne, and we know how these damedn teenagers are, especially with cars that arent theirs!! LOL.

sorry SK, ill do that.

the only thing i really need to hear is a phone call form jason...

"umm josh, i just changed the fluid in your ES, and...well...the trans is slipping"

that woudl be great

i hope that doesnt happen, that is what is making me the most nervous about this whole endevour, is that the car is 50+ miles away, and a tow woudl cost a fortune...

im hoping all goes well, i trust jason, so i know he will do his best. B)

OH one thing, did i ever mention, I am a very meticulous guy, and those clients, when they get in ur car, don't care whether their shoes hit the sidings, and they slam the doors too hard!!!  

That is one of my main concerns in this also. A lot of em liked the loaner though! (and they slammed the doors on the loaners too, OUCH!) B)

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i hate it when peopl;e do that crap, it drives me nuts, especially cause i have frameless glass, i can just picture my glas shattering when the door is slamed *SHUDDERS*

this is baffling, im thinking the carbon is your issue though, especially if you run ~89 octane or less on a regular basis.

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Hi,ArmyofOne

I bought the car at 186,000 kms and since that time I used Esso at 92 octane, but this year they dropped it to 91 octane. Which I still use. So this car has been getting the proper fuel for a long time now. It's never seen less since I owned it.

Daffy

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then the damage was probably done long before you got it...

there is little doubt that TOP engine decarbonizer will cure your issue, but i was merely givving you a cheaper alternative to try.

i think i need to run that engine decarbonizer through mine as i havea slight knock too, but does anyone know where i can find it? i dont want to pay $100 either! LOL

well, i am having JP Importz look at it this week. it is there right now for CV Joints and a Tranny pan drop/screen clean. i am collaborating with jason, if the Cam and crank seals, TB, WP, and oil pump seal cnabe done for between $1150-$1400, i may just have him do it, that way im not totally eating the entire value of the car. its easier to get rid of a car that doesnt leak than one that does.

Hey everybody, my car is at JPI for CV joints, Tranny pan removal and screen cleaning, only the second fo what may end up being many visits there. Just wanted to update everyone. I trust you'll take care of Lexi, Jason. The Camry you loaned me is going to get a detail (vacuum, carpets cleaned, good coat of wax, and you cant say no! ) compliments of me, as a way of saying thanks for letting me pimp it FOR FREE. B) (kickass sound system BTW, not bad for totally stock!)

Jason is by far, the most professional mechanic i have met thus far. Very nice guy, and fair prices, i highly recommend him. He seems to have a love for the cars. That passion, coupled with his education, leads to quality and service unmatched by any other. Props to you man, props to you.

the other thing is, im leaving in FEB, how would i pay a car payment, when i am not even in the same state, let alone the same country (may be going to iraq).

can i have those funds EFT'd?

this is baffling, im thinking the carbon is your issue though, especially if you run ~89 octane or less on a regular basis.

alwyas start with the cheapest first, plugs/wires (just cause they look ok, doesnt mean they are!) ;)

im sorry if i sound too pushy, i just hate to see people waste a TON of money.

You may want to spray some Throttle body/Intake Manifold Cleaner into that cylinder, this is not generaly a safe practice on a clean engine, because it is unfiltered, however in this case, it sounds liek the piston is already dirty.

1. Pull the plug wire and plug off the cylinder that is high and look at the piston with a flashlight...see anything?

2. if so, Spray the cleaner SPARINGLY in the cylinder. (1/2 a second ofspray)

3. Replace Spark Plug and Wire.

before you restart the engine, do this.  disconnect the main wire from the distributor get in the car and crank for 5 seconds, 3 times.  replace main wire, and put gas pedal halfway to floor, start the engine.  IMMEDIATELY take your foot off the gas once it is going.  let idle for 3 seconds, then floor it for a second (bring it to 5,000 or so RPM's) then bring it back down slowly.

**THIS CAN BE PERFORMED WITH GASOLINE, WHICH IS GENERALLY SAFER, HOWEVER, IT IS HARDER TO REGULATE THE AMOUNT OF FLUID GOING INTO THE CYLINDER THIS WAY, TOO MUCH FLUID AND THAT CYLINDER WILL HYDRO LOCK**

so use the TB/IM cleaner.  it burns just the same, but it also cleans.

now do a compression test.

if all is OK, do an oil change (to get whats left ot the TB cleaner out of the oil) and enjoy.

i have done this many times on engines of all kinds, it works like achamp.

the other idea is to stick a toweldown inthe cylinder with a flathead screwdriver to rub offthe carbon, but that only flakes it off into your oil and leaves lint and stiff in the cylinder, this method will DISSOLVE the carbon, so you can burn it.

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Hi ArmyofOne,

I would be concerned about getting a big chunk of carbon coming off and damaging the valves. I will try a slow way first over many miles. Thanks, Daffy

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it wont do that, it will disoolve it into microscopic pieces of carbod, liek black water, and it will burn right out.

I just hope that everything works out for you no matter what you decide to do.  ;)

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it will, as soon as i get these CV joints fixed, im going to go to one of these First Time Buyer Places. i may get raped on the interest rate, but maybenot. i am lookig to get a 1999-2002 Wrangler Hard top, 4.0/5spd.

Hey everybody. I went out to dinner with my mom yesterday and we took her '95 SC400. Nothing unusual until we were on the way back. I went to make a turn and this terrible groaning sound came out from the Lexus   My first thought was the pump. There is no fluid leakage that I can see at all. The resevoir is not down any. Just all of a sudden, something went south. I've never seen a pump go like this before, but it clearly has a rough sound coming from the pump even at idle and not turning the wheel. Could there be something else that would take a pump out like that. I've got the pump out of the car and I'm getting ready to go get a replacement, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't something else I need to look out for before I put the new one on.

Thanks,

Keith

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STOP:

start your car, open the power steering resivoir until the noise goes away, shut it. this basically is a quick bleed. it removes excess air fromthe lines, mine does the same thing, i have a leak in one of the lines...

EDIT: CRAP you already have it out...nowya tell me, ok,

your lines are high pressure feeds, they will not leak when the car is off, but when you turn it on, they get blasted with pressure. if the seals are bad in the pressure lines they will leak, look at around $400 P&L to replace the main, and $250 P&L for each of the secondaries...replacing the pump will most likely not fix this.

You may want to spray some Throttle body/Intake Manifold Cleaner into that cylinder, this is not generaly a safe practice on a clean engine, because it is unfiltered, however in this case, it sounds liek the piston is already dirty.

1. Pull the plug wire and plug off the cylinder that is high and look at the piston with a flashlight...see anything?

2. if so, Spray the cleaner SPARINGLY in the cylinder. (1/2 a second ofspray)

3. Replace Spark Plug and Wire.

before you restart the engine, do this. disconnect the main wire from the distributor get in the car and crank for 5 seconds, 3 times. replace main wire, and put gas pedal halfway to floor, start the engine. IMMEDIATELY take your foot off the gas once it is going. let idle for 3 seconds, then floor it for a second (bring it to 5,000 or so RPM's) then bring it back down slowly.

**THIS CAN BE PERFORMED WITH GASOLINE, WHICH IS GENERALLY SAFER, HOWEVER, IT IS HARDER TO REGULATE THE AMOUNT OF FLUID GOING INTO THE CYLINDER THIS WAY, TOO MUCH FLUID AND THAT CYLINDER WILL HYDRO LOCK**

so use the TB/IM cleaner. it burns just the same, but it also cleans.

now do a compression test.

if all is OK, do an oil change (to get whats left ot the TB cleaner out of the oil) and enjoy.

i have done this many times on engines of all kinds, it works like achamp.

the other idea is to stick a toweldown inthe cylinder with a flathead screwdriver to rub offthe carbon, but that only flakes it off into your oil and leaves lint and stiff in the cylinder, this method will DISSOLVE the carbon, so you can burn it.

could be a loose connection where your p- brake engages  or something wrong with your rear brake components

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Thats what mine is, however, this doesnt usually happen on applications with a pedal brake.

The reservoir sensors in these cars are EXTREMELY sensitive, put it at the max line on the reservoir, that should cure the problem. It sounds like when you round corners or slow down, the fluid is sloshing forward in the tank, leaving the sensor with no fluid on it, so it triggers the light. Then goes back off once you accelerate or steady your speed.

On mine, it is an electrical connection, because if i tap the handle, the light will go out.

Chrome wheels are really hard to get up here, don't know why. They're commonly found in FL, CA, and Texas but for some reason not here. So I would have had to buy them aftermarket and I'd be afraid of the quality there. I'm constantly kicking the idea around about buying some OEM Lexus chrome wheels of ebay, they go for $800 or so a set...

Check out the detailing forum for some how to on how to keep that thing lookin good ;)

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Do it! You know you want too!

do you have a sunroof/moonroof?  if so, lube it, il bet that solves the issue. ;)

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Josh if the whistling wasn't there before the windshield replacement and immediately present after the windshield replacement I doubt it is the moonroof.

Paul, I had my windshield replaced about 2 months ago. I was nervous to have it done. I called my dealership and found out where they outsource their work to. I called them (turns out it is 25 minutes from my house) and had the work done there. Not problems whatsoever. I suggest you do the same. Just call you insurance company and let them know what is going on. They shouldn't have a problem.

If you would like, Lexus of Norwood has their glass done by Allstate Glass in Weymouth, MA. It's a trip for you, but they may be able to rectify what your glass shop did or can't find. They do the glass for all models of Lexi.

steviej

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ok, you know what, i need to go to sleep and wake up tomorrow and try it all over again, cause that was just about the dumbest thing i have ever posted...sorry.

on a more helpful note, tahe it back to whoever replaced the windshield, just because it isnt leaking that you can see, doesnt mean it isnt leaking, chances are if its whislting it is leaking, btu look at all the weatherstipping and see if its frayed/damaged where corners meet/along the topp curve of the windshield etc. i had one replaced in a 1994 Dodge Dakota (V8 BABY YEAH), and they couldnt get the weatherstripping right on it. finally i had to take it do a specialty shop...$150 later i had ANOTHER new windsheild, and no more whistle. sometimes when rocks hit, they do damage to the metal frame under the glass to, so if that was damaged, it will have a whistle there as well.

2000 LX 470 60K miles.  Just bought it.

VSC OFF / VSC TRAC lights on.  just came on when I was lubricating some parts in steering column.  Did not unhook any components though.  Why would this come on?  It just got its 60Kmiles service.  Is there something in the steering column that works with these systems I could have harmed, or is it coincidental?  I was not driving when they first came on.  The car was in park.

Please help

Tom

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how long had the car been idling? your trans may have overheated. long periods od idleing, even in park can cause overheating.

mine does the same thing, ti will read at full for the first 55 miles or so, then drop to 3/4 within 5 blocks. it must be an ES thing.

I recently had to replace my windshield on my 2001 RX-300. I was traveling

behind a covered dump truck, thought I was a safe distance behind, but alas...

I wasn't. We were on the Interstate, traveling 65 or so and PING ,

I got hit by not 1, but 2 separate pebbles. The first, hit the upper right corner of

the windshield, cracking it, and second, hit directly in the center, and it cracked

it end-to-end. I stopped, got out to see if the body received any damage, but it

looked ok. I know these things happen, but still, I was ripped. Unable, to find the

dump truck, I figured I would have to put in a claim for glass replacement.

    My insurance was great. Massachusetts is a glass-covered state (100%) with

approved glass shops. I went to set up an appointment, arranged for a convenient

day/time and dropped off my vehicle. The job was done, as promised, but now,

I've got a whistle. Hmmm, I've been back to them twice, but they can't seem

to find a leak (it doesn't leak when it rains). The replacement windshield (PPG)

is fine, but the gasket fitting the window, or the moulding, I guess, would be the

problem.

      I'm looking for other members who might have had replacement glass done.

I'm thinking of driving to my Lexus dealership, for a basic check of the problem,

but I'm looking for an easier fix. The problem only occurs at about 50 mph.

Regular in-town driving, the problem is insignificant. Any ideas, or thoughts would

be appreciated. The glass place is reputable, but they can't find the problem to

fit it.

PharmGuy (Paul)

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do you have a sunroof/moonroof? if so, lube it, il bet that solves the issue. ;)

I just realized that maybe the power steering pump leak from the air idle valve on the power steering pump might have caused my alternator to fail.  I noticed the leak a few weeks ago and haven't had time to take it in.  Has anyone had the alternator fail with these types of noises?

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more than likely thats what it is...

i juist re-read the first page. well, let me tell you the importance of a PCV valve.

a PCV valve stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. what it does,is vents excess pressure from the engien, and feeds it back into the intake, where it is burned in the combustion process. if it clogs, it WILL cause leaks, because the excess pressure has nowhere to go, so it pushes itself out of the seals on the engine. some of these leaks can be expensive, liek the rear main seal (thats the seal between the engine and transmission, in which the trans has to be moved/removed to fix).

my car had the factory PCV valve on it when i bought it with 138K on it. it leaks 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks, give or take. the total list of leaks are:

Camshaft seals

Crankshaft seals

Rear Exhaust Manifold

Front Exhaust manifold

Oil Pump seal

Valve Cover Gaskets

and a few other random seals.

all of this amounts to a $2500 repair bill, if the rear main or the heads are leaking oil, add $1,000 to that.

basically, not replacing the $7.00 part, will lead to thousands OF dollars in damage down the road...better replace it.

ALSO:

DO NOT EVER PUT BELT DRESSING ONA BELT. IT WILL GET CAUGHT UP IN THE BEARINGS ON CERTIAN PULLEYS AND DESTROY THEM.

most places will replace your belts for about $85. less than that if everything is one belt (yours isnt, its 2, one for power steering and one for everything else).

Seems to be oil spots all over the driveway

1991 LEXUS ES250, V6, auto, pw, pl, p/seats, cruise, sunroof, am-fm cass, CD player, leather int, ac, ps, pb, alloys, good cond, alarm, 144k mi, first $2400 takes it, current emissions, runs great, 404-457-1919.

AutoTader.com

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well i guess some people are stupid, i wouldnt buy that car either, why does every ES250 i have seen leak like that?

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I dunno man. Just thought there might be some comfort in numbers. :)

There's was one of those cars sitting in a yard near me a while back. I drove over and looked at his price on the sign and that scared me off, so never checked it out any further.

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doesnt matter anyway, all $300 i have in the bank goes to jason on tuesday, i MIGHT have enough to fill up the tank on the loaner car...

Seems to be oil spots all over the driveway

1991 LEXUS ES250, V6, auto, pw, pl, p/seats, cruise, sunroof, am-fm cass, CD player, leather int, ac, ps, pb, alloys, good cond, alarm, 144k mi, first $2400 takes it, current emissions, runs great, 404-457-1919.

AutoTader.com

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well i guess some people are stupid, i wouldnt buy that car either, why does every ES250 i have seen leak like that?