ArmyofOne

correct. the shaft that contains both the inner and outer CV's. one on each end. replace that on both sides.

no problem, i found it. you shoudl have reoplaced the hwole shaft. i got mine at orielly's, 129.99 a piece. then minus a $60.00 core exhange per part, the total came out to ~120 for both axles. I really dont wanna mess with it anymore. that cv shaft was a pain to put in LoL. Do you think something is gonna fall off when im driving now haha. I wanna see some sparks shooting out the back of my car. ← ← no probably not, it is possible, but not likely. however, if it does break, possible transaxle/differential damage may result. they arent that bad on my car. just separate the ball joints and tie rids, take of the wheels too. loosen the hub retainer nut, tap the axle out on that side, unbolt the CV shaft on the insde, and the attach new shaft. re assemble, add transs/diff fluid and call it a day.

yeah but, damnit, im counting it as a mod for $100 per rotor!!! LOL. (i knwo i got raped, but i was stuck. the car would stop in a reasonable distance anymore, so wherever i coasted to a stop at was where i had to have it done!) LOL. and they are as good as OEM spec. in fact, they are working better than the OEM ones i had on before they glazed. the rotors look to be titanium, but i doubt they are they have a gold color to them. they stop fast, they are quiet and dust is virtually nonexistent (that has more to do with the pads though) much improved over factory IMO. now worth the $339.57 i paid, but close.

the rotors and pads i put on were.

Hi alll, Well, here's my update, such as it is.... I took the car back to the mechanic today and after checking it over, he said that the problems had nothing to do with the work they did. (No surprise there; of course, it wouldn't be anything 'they' did wrong). He said the one problem, the hesitating and slowing down when it was cold was a transmission problem... just 'coincidental' that it drove perfectly before I drove it into his shop. He suggested that I take it to a transmission shop even though the last time I was at his place, he told me that within a few months he should do a transmission flush. Re: the burning smell, he said it was oil leaking onto the exhaust from the valve cover gaskets and they needed replacing. When I told him that just about a month ago, when mice had eaten away some of my wiring, that I thought the valve cover gaskets were replaced, he looked surprised and said I should take it back to that garage. So, that was that with him. I called the place that had replaced the wiring, along with much else, and they said to bring it in tomorrow and they would check the valve cover gaskets. The owner was about to leave and couldn't recall if they had, in fact, done the cover gaskets. So, that's where it stands for now. What I am wondering now is, if the valve cover gaskets were 'not' replaced, do any of you have any ideas about a ball park figure for doing that? As I've said, this is southern California, where they charge high prices for everything. Good lord, I hope that this latest isn't another job involving hundreds of $'s. As always, your advice will be greatly appreciated. Please answer right away as I am taking it in tomorrow and want to be semi-prepared at least. Thanks again, Shirley ← 1 valve cover: front: #100-$175 Labor Rear: $175-$200 Labor both valve covers: $250-$400 depending, and thats parts and labor on that one. :D if your tranny is slippig, i woudl not flush it. check the fluid level and see if its where it should be. if the fluid is going bad, it may have beurned away hence the level dropping. im not sure if its possibel for that to happen, but i suppose it is. so check it. if you dont knwo how to do that, post and we can tell you :)

no, i cant feel them. :D let me rephrase. it looked FANTASTIC after the applications of NXT. it olnly lasted 1.5 weeks. 1.5 weeks of straight RAIN. it hid them well, but i get tired of having to reapply it, i want them gone if at all possible...

If the ES's 6 is shoehorned, then, the LS's 8 must be driven in with a sledge! All joking aside, working on a LS is a !Removed!-save a few things like tranny fluid and brakes. I think the V8 is more crammed; if you want to get to anything on the front of the engine, don't make any plans. It does have decent room on the sides of the engine, but that's pretty much good for nothing. ← jason porefers tin inline six (2JZ) series. plenty of room. heres the deal, it looks like my rotation may be pushed back, possibly into june. if that is the case, i will keep on driving it. the engine is starting to make funny noises, i fear there may not be much life left in her. the tranny however, is doing great, considering its abusive former owner...

does it have to be a mod? cause i only have 2. 1 i didnt do. i would have to say its the front brakes.

classic rod bearing(s)/main bearing(s)the motor has to come out for this one. sorry for the bad news.

no problem, i found it. you shoudl have reoplaced the hwole shaft. i got mine at orielly's, 129.99 a piece. then minus a $60.00 core exhange per part, the total came out to ~120 for both axles.

BUT...i dont have an engine lift, and i dont think jason will let me use his...i could have him do the swap...BUt again...$$$ comes into play. and besides, he hates this car...really he doesnt liek working on any of the ES series V6's...he says they are all... SW: did you get the pic of my swirls? here they are again... hey...look at the bright side...at least the water spots are gone... i wont let my brother drive it now, he has assured me that if i leave it for him to drive, he will proceed to beat the HELL out of the car, flooring the motor from every light, redline to every shift, my tranny cant handle that. so if i still have it when i go, i will either see about leaving it with jason for a few motnhs, or i will drain all the fluids, put 'er on blocks and lock her in a storage barn till i get back. then i will have $$ to buy another lex, and keep this one as the project car. :D

it depends on if this guy that looked at it tonite wants it. (i dont think he was that interested, i told him up front about the oil leaks, and he kind of squirmed...) it is in pretty good shape. it has a good amount of heat warp on the dash. and needs repainted now. the paint on the drivers rear door is rapidly peeling away, and the passenger rear door...well you can see the beginning of it under the ridge below the window... also the right rear quarter panel needs repainted as well. needs new hood thanks to my boss's kids.... considering i got almost all of my moeny back after my lawyer (family friend)confronted the previous owner about fasification of claims for sale, he gave me back $1500, plus the $200 for the brake job back in september. i have spent around $1,050 if i added correctly. after the refund, i bought this car for around $1350. not too bad considering if i waited for the right buyer, i could get around $2500. lexusfreak, i would hang onto it, but DAMN, i just cant see putting over $5,000 worth of work into this car. it still needs a steering rack and pinion, and ball joint bushings. needs the whole power steering system redone. the power steering system is weird. i start up the car sometimes, and it makes this groaning sound from under the hood. i pop the hood and open the resivoir for the power steering, with the car still running, and it goes away instantly. doesnt return for at least 2 days! i was told all the lines are leaking and that the pump is probably gone. then it still needs TB/WP/Cam and crank seals- $850 then oil pump seal (IF ANYONE CAN GIVE ME AN ACCURATE PRICE ON HOW MUCH THIS SHOUDL COST< I WOULD APPRECIATE IT!!!): unknown. a GOOD goimg over with a buffer. i still have 1 panelof body cladding i need to re attach, it came loose yesterday in the carwash. then they are all re attached with a small amount of Liquid Nail and mostly #M Auto Trim adhesive tape. the steering rack, Greenleaf Auto parts has one for $128.90. used, with 82,000 miles on it. might be cheaper tofind a used motor/trans combo than to fix the oil leaks! also...more pix: My nearly perfect interior:

NOOOOO! :o Don't ask that question. That is the question that sparks the heated hated debate of which is better: synthetic or dino. Use the SEARCH button for this question. Do not rehash old arguements, PLEASE. steviej ← i wasnt trying to rehash that...im simply saying that oil additives do more harm than good. ← Josh, read the progession of the quotes. I was not talking to you, I was talking to mxl4729 in regards to starting the debate again. your initiative on oil additives was fine. steviej ← DOH!!!! i have been own3d again...sort of...well...not really...shutting up...

How many miles? ← 141,408 when i parked it tonite. also forgot to add to the list: -TB and UIM Cleaning. -New light bulbs throughout the car (headlights, tailights, the works) -ordered owners manual from Lexus. -Claybar, rubbing and polishing compound and NXT, lots of NXT.

the other CV joints!? LOL a screw in a tire? did you post a thread before? ill go look for it to get more background on your problem, so you dont have to explain it all again... ;)

ok, repairs made: -PCV valve change -Oil Change -Air Filter -Tranny fluid drain and fills (2) -Tranny Filter Replacement -Fixed Drivers Window Swtiches -Re-attached body cladding with new clips and 3M Double sided Moulding adhesive tape. -both drive axles, and inner and outer CV joints -Front Brake rotors and pads.

Pimp Factor. 8) ^pretty paint, and Yokohama Avid Touring rubber in front, NEW. ^new Dunlop SP Sports in rear. ^more Dunlop! ^cool angle. For Sale, but onlyif i get what im asking $2250, OBO. (wont go any lower than $1800) ^ gawd i love that color on a sunny day! ^my brother made the fornt bumper worse now, by hittiing a wall in the school parking lot (driving lesson...dont ask) ill post my progress of my reparis when i return from a short meeting!

YEP! :) ← when you open the sunroof and realize, i love this car! when you are cruising at highway speed and the only indication that you are even moving, are the needles on the gauges. more to come...

a tourque converter is basically a clutch for an auto trans...but they are quite different actually. the TQ converter does the same thing a clutch does, excet it does it autmoatically, without you haveing to push the gas pedal. according to HowStuffWorks.com: so im thinking, put it in D and let your foot of of the brake. on level ground, does the car creep forward?

im leaning towards the tyhrottle linkage myself, it sounds like its revving completely fine, your engine is not the problem here, as SRK pointed out. i am a shadetree mechanic, you can use my name if you think it will help. Pm me and ill give it to you if you want it. they have never heard of me so i doubt it wil help, but let me know. on thefirst rev...did you not put the pedal down evenly? is that why the rev was weird? on the second one it sounds superb.

C'mon guys! LOC is welcome too!! 1. ArmyofOne (Josh) 2. JPI (Jason) 3. Trulux (Nate) 4. Southen SC (derek)

NOOOOO! :o Don't ask that question. That is the question that sparks the heated hated debate of which is better: synthetic or dino. Use the SEARCH button for this question. Do not rehash old arguements, PLEASE. steviej ← i wasnt trying to rehash that...im simply saying that oil additives do more harm than good. and FYI, currently i run Valvoline MaxLife 10W30. when i get the oil leaks sorted out, i will be using Mobil 1 Super Syn 5W30.

i agree here, but i am exploring all options, starting with the most simple, the fact is, i have seen carbon deposts and low fuel pressure cause this kind of decrease in performance, without decreaseing smoothness of the engine itself. it coudl very well be a fult within the engine, but is a simple fix if it is. you are probably correct, it is MOST LIkely an issue external to the engien itself. im leaning more and more to the Throttle Body not opening fully...

the sound system in my 90 ES250 makes the mirrors shake...but thats probably due to the fact that the mirrors are loose...

on the es300, it is on the right hand side, sticking out of the rear valve cover, it will have a hose that runs fgrom it to the intake maifold (the throttle body actually) i believe. ← I found it thanks!! ← no problem. B)