ArmyofOne

pardon me, but that seems to be the stupidest design ever. what would be the point of that?? anti theft??

SW03ES, new brakes usually squeal for a little while, sometimes up to 1500 miles. drive gently on them for at least 500 to avoid glazing the rotors, until they are good and worn in. ;) if in 500 miles, the sqeal is still there, then use the stop squeak. B)

Sorry for the delayed response. I believe there's a way to increase and decrease the TQ Converter. I remember Cureline.net writing something about it. When the site is back up, you can check it out. BTW I never asked you if you had any pipe or oil leaks. ← he said that the mechanic said it wasnt a problem LOL. seems to be the fuel pump..that i would believe, definately not a TQ conv at 68Kmiles.

try brasso, it seems to work well. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15868

i prefer NXT on all of my cars except the lex... lexis paint is peeling off the doors and rear fender on the left side, so i pretty much just use gold class by meguiars. works pretty good, lasts much longer than NXT.

Meguiars PlastiX will do the same, but maybe not to the same degree of effectiveness. thanks for the tip!

mine didnt need a gasket, or atleast, i didnt put one in when i changed it... yeah, best to let the mechanic handle it from here, if it comes loose and falls into the valve cover, you would have soem serious issues, as you woudlnt even be able to start the car until you got it out. and that means removing intake manifold and valve cover. did any of those chunks fall into the inside of the valve cover? i wonder how hard it would be to relocate the PCV valve to the front valve cover...hmm...i may look into that... DO NOT put tape over that hole, itscalled positive crankcase ventilation for a reason.. the valve clogs, it will cause an oilleak. if the whole its covered, same thing... so while it may be ok for the 4 mile drive to the mechanic, i wouldnt reccomend it. the pressures that build up inside of an engine are extrodinary. leav it open and just clean up around it when you get it back.

*bump* any update craig?

the las ttime i ahad a place change a PCV valve, it was 56 dllars. i wouldnt lose faith in all mechanics just yet. the only reason i havent done mine is becuase that snot the only place mien is leaking. i have every seal onthe motor dripping oil except for the rear main seal. speaking of rear main seal, is it possible that thats what is leaking?

C'mon guys! LOC is welcome too!! 1. ArmyofOne (Josh) 2. JPI (Jason) 3. Trulux (Nate) 4. Southen SC (derek) ← EDIT#2: IT IS OFFICIAL, THE MEET DATE IS SATURDAY, DECEMBER 18TH . THE START TIME IS NOON! Directions: Take I-30 to cooper St. Head N on cooper St. Turn L on Greenoaks Blvd you will see the park entrance. It looks like this: Enter the park. It will be a right turn if you are coming from my directions. Here is the park: Once inside the park, take the first left. the very first parking area you come to is the meet. you will see my car there. c'mon guys! i know the DFW gang wants to do this. 5 peopel isnt a very big turnout.

actually, i think its on the right (passeneger) side, but i havent seen one in person. ← I guess that would depend on where you are standing and what country you are in. Joking aside, the right side would be the passenger side in the US. But as described, facing the engine, it would be the left side. ← heh, i was joking LOL, i forgot my smiley!

sorry i was referring to this comment:

lol i agree.. i would think twice about going back to these people. find yourself a shop who knows what they're doing.. and saying! ← khhoang, you rpost is not entirely accurate...my car has had a MASSIVE oil leak for arund 35K miles, and its motor is perfectly sound. driving with an oil leak will not decrease the reliability fo the engine, so long as you keep oil in it.

yes, they wil make a noise in revers SOMETIMES. not always, but thats still a good question. also, on left/right turns at low speeds, you will get a CLUNK. you should be able to feel it in your floorboard. the inener ones usually are responsible for the ticking noises, whiel the outer ones are usually the culprit behind the clunks. it can work the other way around sometimes though. ← I guess i should have said that it "still clunks" instead of clicking. My fault. What im trying to say is that when i turn left at slow speeds i still hear the same noise as i did before i replaced the cv shaft that had a ripped boot. You're right about feeling it in the floor boards. It gives you an uneasy feeling. Glad to see you are restoring your es250. I would too if i had the cash or skills. ← thats a bad CV joint, classic. check the other side. otherwise you got a defective part. also, check your balljoint bushings and all that good stuff, could also be a problem with the steering rack, but we wont go there yet. ($$$$). those tie-rod and ball joint bushings are easy to change while you are itn here, and they are cheap as well.

yore mechanic is full of *BLEEP*. the CEL will not come on. the rear valve cover does have a gasket. have you considered the thought that it could be a rear main seal? thats the seal between the engine and trasnaxle, about $800 repair P&L.

actually, i think its on the right (passeneger) side, but i havent seen one in person.

why is this here? LOL. anyway it looks like you got it. i have never seen one, but that looks liek a steering rack solenoid.

well this is good to hear. i had rolled down the window and was breathing out of it until h stopped at the light. i didnt ant to get him in trouble though, so i didnt oll it all the way down. i agree it was very rude and irrespnsible.

^^I'm with stoopid^^

I have a cowoker named Sal. Well today, I got in his car with him to go around the corner on the lunchbreak, to a gas station to get some munchies. On the way back, he lights up a pipe! i (not knowing he smoked weed) was surprised and very unconfortable. I have a Unrine Analysis on monday for the military and this dude is fixing to give me a contact high! He offered me some and at that moment, i was like, no, this aint gonna work. At the next light, when he stopped, I got out and told him i would walk back. I said i wanted no part of what he was doing. I also said that it makes no difference to me if he does it or not, I just dont want to be around it. and i proceeded to walk the 3 or 4 blocks back to work. i arrived ~15 mins. late, and was asked to give a reason as to why, (it wasnt a big deal, my boss, john was worried about me more than anything.) I told him i just lost track of time. He was like "oh, ok, no biggie, i just was kinda worried as you have never been late to work or back from lunch. " Sal didnt talk to me the rest of the day and kind of scowled at me. now, i know i shouldnt have covered for him, but its his business. i dont want to get him in trouble, but damn, he could have just ruined my military career. What should i do? If i tell john the reason i was really late, He could lose his job. And if i say something, he doesnt lose his job, it will make working there much more difficult, for lack of communication... and whats more, if i fail this urinalysis because i have grass in my system, my career could be totally ruined! help! :cries:

Yes Craig, it is supposed to creep forward. thats a good thing. :) It doesnt take as much power to rev an engine when not in gear, but it does still take some. A major internal issue with the engine will usually surface revving out of gear as well as when in gear. The tech was right on the money. While it may have seemed like he was only looking for an excuse to do a few burnouts, he in fact is testing the torque converter the only way it can be tested without removal. The TQ Converter is not your issue. Usually a dead or dying fuel pump will cause hesitation, or stumbles, not a smooth transition from low power to normal power, however it is not unheard of. This tech sounds like he knows his stuff (and he had better for what you are likely to be paying him). Unfortunately, the fuel pump on most cars is in the fuel tank, and that requires you to drop it, which in turn means labor and more $$. I would count on no less than $300 USD Parts and Labor for this repair, and thats a low-ball estimate from me. more than likely, the problem originated with the bad gas, it just tooka little while to surface. when you go back, ak the tech if this sort of fuel pump failure can be caused by fuel varnish. if he says yes (and my hunch is he will) go and buy a can of slick 50 and put it through your fuel system like i originally suggested. this will help clean out some of the varnish.

microsoft terraserver http://terraserver.microsoft.com pretty cool! http://terraserver.microsoft.com/GetImageA....21690200\ thats my house in Anchorage. its the really light tan roof in themiddle of the pic. LOL.

not sure, not sure, none that i know of. i didnt buy it, its my dads, he has had it for years. uses it on the old charger since the repaint. i may be able to steal it. :D mine is just a noname. i think it turns at like 500 RPMS max or something liek that. not sure. but it did the job on the hood. you cant see those ones at all. the stragest thing is, the winsheild washer fluid etched the paint. though the water spots themselves are gone, you can still see the "imprint" they left behind. sorry for getting off subject and thanks for answering my many ?'s sw03es.

yes, they wil make a noise in revers SOMETIMES. not always, but thats still a good question. also, on left/right turns at low speeds, you will get a CLUNK. you should be able to feel it in your floorboard. the inener ones usually are responsible for the ticking noises, whiel the outer ones are usually the culprit behind the clunks. it can work the other way around sometimes though.

cool. i have aporter cable, i will hit them with it the next chance i get. i will give it a fresh coat of NXT rightbeofre the meet and post the difference. B) i wont hit it with the buffer though till at least after the meet (oh and check the meet forum for details on that LOL)