ArmyofOne

http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/2004/foot...es.r/index.html Reggie white was a Defensive Lineman (mostly defensive end) for the Philidelphia Eagles and the Green Bay Packers. At least he got to spend christmas day with his family (im sure). RIP "Minister of Defense", you and yours are in our thoughts and our prayers. See you on the other side.

look at the inside of your oil cap (turn it upside down) and also take a peek inside your valve covers. i dont really know of any other way without removing the oil pan.

that link is a mod for a ford. :D to answer your question, no, i wouldnt think it would damage anythig. it couldnt hurt to try it.

No the tyres 100% did NOT lose any grip at all. It is something to do with the other problem of the hesitation I just know they are connected. Just want to know whats causing it! Bison ← it soubds like Torque converter slip to me. you push your foot down and nothing. it just revs. try a slow application of pressure. every once in a while my 90 ES250 will give me a bit of TQ Conv slip. usually only if its really cold and i drive like a nut (i never do them both at the same time). but it will only do it if i slam the gas down unexpectedly. i think it has more to do with the ECM telling the tranny what to do that the tranny itself though. LS400 doesnt have a hesitation issue that i know of, but i could be wrong on that.

yeah they are a total waste. i think the only gain i ever saw was about 2HP at the wheels on a contour, to say nothing of a lexus that probably has more drivetrain loss.

Thanks for asking. Looks like I am in a holding pattern until the Insurance Company determines fully and without question that there are no insurance options available to the other driver and/or owner. The driver provided a bad address and phone number. No contact will be available there. The Owner has a bad phone number and the address research is pending comparison with DMV records and the like. It is unknown if he has insurance but the car has current tags. In Texas, one must show proof on insurance for such a transaction. We will see. No matter what happens I am moving on and am very fortunate to have been in a very safe and resilient vehicle. ← yes thats a law in texas, and you are welcome. hope it didnt ruin your holiday. i had a car accident thatcost me over 10,000 dollars this year, between the old car that i totoalled, buying the new car, fixing the new car (got a bad one) and time missed from work.

i work full time at motorola, he works with me there. army is only part time :)

i have the other cars i can drive, but oddly, my favorite for in the city is the lex. it's peppy enouh to scoot me around town, and gets ok mileage, and is super easy to park. the Chrysler Concorde Limited is a very comfortable car, dont get me wring, #1 but the transmission is going out...#2 my mom and i share it (i helped her buy it). ...its mostly the highway/road trip cruiser. the F-150 is the haul-stuff-around vehicle. its my dads for the most part, but i use it alot too. and the 68 Charger R/T (see sig) sucks in everything except a straighht line (too much HP!!), gets crappy mileage (5-8 in city...S/C Sucks!!) has no power anything (including brakes/steering) and is in perfect condition (doesnt see snow, mainly because with all that HP (its highly modded) it would not move, it would just sit there and spin). thats my dad and i's baby, and its in storage for the winter. so i have 3 cars to choose from on a daily basis, but for my needs, i almost always choose the lex, its the most practical. B)

SK has a good point. if you have owned the car since new, flushing every 3rd oil change isnt a bad thing, IF its been maintained good. but these things that clean out engines, be weary...piston rings and valve seals on older engines can.do become brittle if the engine is not maintained properly.

i believe the new skin from lexus is only $450 or so. and then the prep and paint would be around $200....i agree with SW03ES and i say you got taken for a ride, blake. any update on this? im almost certian the car is totalled, but just interested to see what the ins says. and dont EVER (well, under most circumstances) take the first check. make them give you 2 or 3 offers, sometimes you get more. also, get an attourney to represent you if the need arises. if you feel like you are getting reamed, just call a lawyer, personal accident and injury attourneys jump on cases like this...red light runner = automatically at fault. they see it as a case thats already won.

heh, mine does the same thing, and i was gonna replace the switch, but since you said something, im no longer going to do that. i think it blows a resistor in there somewhere. common problem in many cars. i would giess the dealer could doit for a hundred dollars or so...

Many of those 'engine flushing' products at more show than go.......the best way to prevent sludge is to perform all oil changes on time (and mileage) & use a high quality oil whether it be dino or synthetic. If your engine already has the sludge problem, it's toast (sooner or later) & no flushing product will be able to save it as the damage is already done. If purchasing a used ES (also applies to the RX, Camry, Highlander, Sienna etc) with the 3.0L V6 (1997 - 2001).......make sure you get ALL service & maintenance records before signing on the dotted line. If you can't get them, find another ES. Good Luck! B) ← expanding on what Lexusfreak said, but also disagreeing with a portion... IF you can catch the sludge in its starting stages, a pressurized flush MIGHT save it. but thats a big might. short answer is dont even bother. besides, if you really want to do it, youcan do it at home with oil flush from autozone

Then the price you paid hardly applies to what Shirley will run into, agreed!? JPI is a long drive for Shirley given she is in So. Cal. That is why I gave her the ballpark of $500 to $600 for both sides. steviej ← yes but i had a mechanic local to me told me $400 for both sides...so i was just saying i thought thats a little high. however, due to the increased labor and more parts/sensors that could be damaged i guess $500-$600 is a fair guess, in SoCal it could be more, i didnt even think about the fact that she was there.

his hood isnt salvageable...trust me...not even rubbing compund will take that out

Thanks Bren. It just raises my fur when someone tries to reword exactly what I said and then further adds possible confusion to the the whole shabang. Replacing half shafts is one of my favorite DIY repairs to undertake. Done it many times on various makes and models. In every case, it was cheaper and easier to to go the way of replacing the entire half shaft. Army: Shirley's ES is probably equiped with ABS and traction control where your ES 250 is not (I'm guessing here). I allowed for a little extra time in removing the old half shafts without damaging the hub with traction control sensors and the ABS sensors. I also figured that the last thing Shirley would want to do is lug the dirty greasey HEAVY old half shafts from her mechanic to the autoparts store. I figured a little more because her mechanic will order the parts from the same place she is going to and yes charge her a little more, but she then won't be bothered with any of the details. Hence I figured at best: $250 per side = $500. ← yes i have ABS, but no on Trac control. :D but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

naw man, i believe you,i was just giving ya beef :) any update craig??

you will not see any cracks on the drive belt from the back. the cracks are on the other side were the ribs are. you have to get in there with a flash light and check the face were it bends back across a pulley. a belt will look new from the back but could be ready to fail. also that cheep belt fails and it will leave you stranded. no water pump and no alternator does not let you get very far. ← the serpintine belt runs the water pump on te Gen II? i thought it was the Timing Belt??

happy Chrismahanakwanzaka!!!!

thats not what you said at the meet... <_< ;)

stevie, unless the later model ES300's are more labor intensive, i dont think it will cost that much for the CV axles. parts and labor for me ran $438 for BOTH sides. that also included a tranny fluid drain and fill and a filter change on the tranny too. Shirley, ebcause of the labor involved, it is usually better to change out the entire axle. your axle has 4 CV joints, one on each end of each axle. when one fo those joints goes, the others are usually soon to follow. there is hope! you do not have to use LEXUS parts, if you are not in warranty. for $129.00 a piece + $60.00 core exchange, O'Riellys auto parts (or autozone, i think their prices are within $2.00 of each other) will sell you 1 CV Driveshaft remanufacturered for your car. the way the core exchange works: you go, pay the full $129 for each part. you take the parts (totalling $260 or thereabouts) to your mechanic and have them changed BUT TELL HIM YOU WANT TO KEEP THE OLD PARTS...ALL OF THEM!!!! put the old parts in the boxes the new parts came in and take them to o'rielly's and give them the used parts. they will give you back $60.00 per axle=$120. and dont worry about remanufacturered parts, thats all the mechainc woudl do anyway is remanufacturer your part and put it back in. he would pull it apart, change the CV unit inside the boot and put it back into the car. new is not any better in this case, these "remanned" parts come with a lifetime warranty. and you wil pay over $300 per axle for the Lexus replacement, and you wont get any core refund/exchange.

no, bondo is not a half assed fix, it is the only way to repair certian things sometimes. but in this instance, its better jsut to replace the doors. but if your rear quarter panel was damaged (say near the gas filler door) they would have to pull the dent, and then sand and bondo, getting lines back level and sand agan, keep doing it until its perfect. reason being, you do not have a removeable rear quarter panel, so unless the damage is so bad they cant repair it with bondo (doesnt happen often, the stuff really does work wonders!!) they usually use that. on the rear quarter panel, if it is bad, the damage can be cut out with a plasma torch and a maching area from a used panel can be cut and welded in its place. this is much more difficult than bondo. however, every other panel on your car is replaceable. even the roof panel. so if i were you, i would push for a new door, since they proved they couldnt use bondo correctly the first time. since your rear quarters are fine, dont worry about it LOL. and SK, i forgot, the black paints on lexus' dont have clearcoat. so any sanding that woudl be done would be fruitless, and actually, the imperfectiosn looked to me to be in the bondo as well, so a complete repaint of the panel is inevitable. it looks like the sandpaper they used on this repair was about a 200 grit, maybe less. you could pop to get it repainted...it would look like a brand new car!!! and the airbag (singular,there is only one in the gen I i think) didnt deply because it wasnt a frontal collision. the sensors are bhind the grille. if they arent impacted at a nearly head on angle, they will not deploy. though it looks liek you JUST missed it.

no it was a CL/LOC/IS300.net meet...but nobody from here except blake was intersted, and i did post it, in 2 places... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15708 thats one, the other was here int he general discussion forum, but it disappeared. so consider yourself slapped..LOL. :D

buffing it wont help, they will have to repaint, unless they wetsand and then buff, but even then you will always have to keep wax on it (and i do mean FREQUENTLY) because it will fade quickly. the only way to correctly fix it is to resand, strip with spirits/thinner and repaint. BOT, that LS400 is only worth $5500 max, they wil total it, there is probably over $7,000 worth fo damage. industry standard (slightly variable in some areas) is $975 per inch of frame straightening...so... add that up. looks like about 3 inches, that right there is ~$3,000. plus the body repair, not to mention whatever suspension damage hs occured...

blake, i have seenthis body work in person and thats EXACTLY what they did, the sandpaper they used was ENTIRELY too rough...

dude, $6,000 for a *BLEEP*ing engine replacement, thats ludacris, if you were near here, i would do it for a quarter that, and i would warranty my work. AND... your car is worth what...$4,000?? and SK,its no big deal :D you have corrected me (very politely for the most part) on alot of my mistakes, i thought i woul simply return the favor :)