ArmyofOne

no, they are most likely still torqued to proper specs. i did this on my front one and it made it worse. to tighten the rear one, you have to remove the intake so you can get to the bolts anyway, might as well remove the gasket and replace it. are you in ft. worth/dallas?

that PCV Valve is the reason (most likely) behind your valve cover leak. when that valve clogs the excess pressure inside the crankcase has nowhere to go, so it builds up inside the engien until it blows a gasket, typically ont hese cars, the valve covers are the first to go because thawt where most fo the pressure builds (hence the reason the valve is in the top of the cover.

Don't you think heat would become a factor with the Rhino Lining? Plus the lining would spray all over everything and might plug some holes or cover a sensor, like the sensors on the resonator. How would you take the resonator sensor out of the pipe if its sealed up LOL. Just my opinion. Chris ← you would tape off these things. heat may become a factor, yes. i dont even knwo if it can be done, but i know you can buy enough rhino liner to do it for around $200 and having someone install it woudl be around $300, unless you have to R&R parts liek exhaust. the OBVIOUSLY wouldnt do the bottom of the engine or anything...

its pretty simple: -disconnect the battery -label all vaccum hoses -drain oil from engine -remove intake manifold, and leave suspended from hood with zip ties. -remove spark plugs and wires -remove valve covers -scrape old gasket off -put new one one (with a coat of motor oil on both sides to help get a proper seal -until it heats up) -replace valve cover -replace spark plugs and wires with new ones -replace intake manifold -re connect all vaccuum hoses int he correct places -reconnect battery -top off oil -fire it up! i dont nwo of a tutorial with pics, btu when i do mine, i may take some.

he showed those to me at my house, the look alot worse in person...

the alaska highway from Wasilla, Alaska to Calgary, Canada: 2,600 miles of road, mountians, plains, snow, and everything else you want to see. but dont blink, you will miss the next gas station...400 miles down the road.

what part of the metroplex are you in? ← ← Allen ← when your post count gets above 10, PM me, maybe we can meet up sometime.

there sint anything in the coolant system that will trigger a CEL i dont think...only a low coolant light. O2 sensors are fairly easy. on mine they are a piece of cake, im just waiting for the dya when the o2 sensors go, so i can fix the hole in my flex pipe while im in there...

this seems to be a common problem with the ES's, even mine does it and its a rare first generation. it seems to be most prevalent on 2001-2004 models. i have driven an 03 ES330 and its quite annoying... whie it doesnt seem to be the same as the tranny hesitation, thats an entirely different feeling to my butt...and i hate that part to. thast why i will never own one, my next lex will be a GS/SC/LS

probably good advice...is it cheaper just to replace the dash myself? it cant be that hard on this car to do that, there isnt much to the dash, no airbags, and i coudl do the heater core while im in there...it is behind the dash right?

lmao I bet she's a lot of fun!! B) ← she is, but i have *calmly* decided that my next car will be an LS400/430. why? because even at nearly a quarter of a million miles, i can still hear you talk in the car at highway speed. not a whistle, rattle or otheerwise intrusive sound in the entire car. simply stunning. if you want me to take a look at that paint, next time you are out i can see what i can do. you said you have tried everything, but i have a few tricks up my sleeve. i refuse to believe that it cant be made ot lookat least a little better. and take that car back to the body shop and tell them to replace the door, it still dosnt look up to snuff! <_< props on the interior and the ride, but the bodywork peopel need to be fired man. those guys dont knwo what they are doing. you dont use bondo on a 10K car, period...unles syou absolutely have to. when i repair peopels cars,i walways look at it from this perspective: what would i want if i were the (sometimes) paying customer? i would only want the best. thats what you and your lex should have gotten.

i hate car wrecks, at least you are ok. take it from a guy who got diddlyy from his car wreck (i didnt even get anything for my car, i had to replace it at MY expese) luckily for you you dont have to do the same. good luck,and if i can be of any assistance, dont hesitate to ask.

to all ye who said/think it cant be done...think again... http://www.seanhylandfocus.com/ :D

They don't know how it makes that much hp though...still a bit of a secret!! Yep...the pool was definantly kick !Removed! with all of the rocks and jacuzzi!! B) ← ill take some pix as soon as my digicam gets adjusted by my boss, i dont knwo why but the pix are all nasty. and actually (since you asked), i asked the dealer guy that drove the concorde on its last visit (the one before the tranny replacement,) and he said he noticed it was a little faster than most, but couldnt put his finger on it. they couldnt see anything, so it must have been a factory freak...:whistles: next time, ill take you for a spin in it...see if you feel the difference... next time, ill take you for a spin in the concorde......see if you feel the difference and can tell me why it says what it says in my sig :D

glad to have you, hopefully next time we wont be remodleing and you can see the upstairs of the house! tell em blake, the pool is kickass, next LOC meet at my house! LOL. oh BTW, sorry if i had to rush you off in a hurry. i had that dentist appointment (that was over before you even got to the edge fo Ft worth!). it was a pleasure to have you blake, feel free to come over anytime. i may do the same before i leave for ADR.

dont be so sure about the plugs. i have seen 2 day old spark plugs crack. especially when they arent replaced with ones as good as OEM (for instance, champion, bosch, etc...bosch is ok for most cars, but lexus/toyotas generally hate them...i wouldnt put a champion in a lawnmower though.

it is only on 2, 4, and 6 because you only have 1 bank of sylinders misfiring, i bleieve 2, 4, and 6 are on the back bank (the one closest to the firewall) thos plugs are no fun to change, but with a few pivot-racthets and a 3/8's inch drive it can be done.

its not a heater issue, but an issue with engine temperatures. 135 i believe is a bank running lean, or an o2 sensor i cant remeber which though...

what part of the metroplex are you in?

i knew it was only a matter of time before my dashboard cracked. a few days ago i noticed a 6 inch long crack down the center of my dash running front to rear. do those repair kits you see on tv work? or are they just a waste of money? if they dont work, can an upholstery place fix mine? i think it might be the same as a camry dashboard, so if replaceing it is the only option, any good source for parts? also, how do i stop the crack from spreading further? would drilling a hole at the end of it work?

As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!! ← i might just be willing to drive to you to do it. LOL. i'll keep in touch. probably wont be for a few months. the car is not dagerous in its current state, as long as one doesnt act stupidly with it. it just requires that you turn the wheel a little farther before the car repsonds. i am used to it and i now can handle it without a problem. but the first time i took a cloverleaf exit ramp and i turned the wheel, the car kept going straight!! it scared the beejesus out of me. when/if i get a truck, i may rent a uhaul and tow it there, and let you work on it at your leisure. after i get my oil leaks fixed, because thats top priority. B) thanks for the offer. i will keep in touch and let you know. i agree this site is great! i myself was quoted <1300 to do it and i decided right then and there that i wasnt ever going to get it done as its my only car that i can drive daily without a hassle for a long period of time. i can use the concorde or the F-150, but it will create a problem after a few days. my ball joints are so far gone i will probably need new LCA's too. i have the knowledge and the ability, just not the time!

Sk, i have always wanted to ask someone who deals with this in the winter, does Rhino Liner protect from salt? i wouldnt see why not. and it can be applied to the entire underside fo you car for less than $500, granted thas alot fo money, but its relaly a small price to pay to keep your car looking pristine. and their ability to color match is incredible (at least around here). they can even make it textureless so its never noticed unless you look for it. whats your opinion on htis? they never used salt on the roads in alaska (where im from) just sand. it was significantly easier on a cars finish.

a product called Zoop seal. works great!

As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99.

i was told by bestbuy that the only thing that can be put in there is a custom setup. an aftermarket HU will blow the speakers in your dash, and they are an odd size, so no aftemarket ones are available. they need to completely rewire the stereo system, install the aftermarekt HU (there is a dash install kit available, but im not sure where). the factory amp has to be bypassed/replaced. the modulation it uses will blow an aftermarket HU or something to that effect. you cant connect the aftermarket HU to a factory amp. the rear deck peakers are easily found, but dont blow the ones in the dash, they are not only a PITA to get them out, but you will never find a higher rated replacement, it simply doesnt exist. to take off the dash do the following: remove the wood trim around the HVAC controls with a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel. once removed, remove the one over the shifter as mucha s you can. the remove the screws securing the HU in place.