ArmyofOne

ummm...Put it in the other side, it shoudl be the same sensor. a long as you didnt throw the other one away. EDIT: DONT DO THIS, it is different. i would buy the OE identical sensor. and leave the one you have already replaced alone. you will see improvement from it, it was not wasted cash.

SK, It says air flow sensor is bad. They replaced the bad one with a used one for $220. ← does the car work any better? lights still on?

ok heres the list: -Rack and pinion R&I (10hrs) -Rack and pinion mount bushings (0 hrs) -Left and Right Ball Joint R&I (4hrs) -Left and right Outer Tie Rod Ends R&I (0hrs) -Spark Plugs (Lexus OEM) (2hrs) -Spark Plug Wires (Lexus OEM) (0hrs) -Upper Intake Cleaning (1hr) -Lower Intake Cleaning (1hr) -Intake/MAF tube Replace R&I(0hrs) -Fuel System Cleaning (1hr) at $74 an hour, you add it, im too drunk at the moment.

that is correct, you can bypass the ECU. but it sounds as if the pump may be bad anyway. either that or the relay is gone. to check for fuel flow, disconnect one of the fuel lines before one of the rails. if it squirts fuel, you have gas until that point. if that happens check your injectors.

JP Importzhas told me face-to-face that a lexus transmission should never be flushed.

not on an LS400, there arent any. thats a part (or rather a set fo parts) that only FWD/(some) AWD cars have. but if it were FWD, that be the first place i'd look! :D i would say wheel bearing.

no, but wwith 145K on mine, shes gotta be getting close...who'da thunk it?

could have been the wrong O2 sensor, did itsay it was a downstream? or an Upstream? a 135 i believe is a Downstream. so which one did you replace? the one right after/inside the exhaust manifold or the one rigth before/inside the catalytic converter?

I think 15,000 miles is much too soon personally. What are the reasons why your dealer wants you to change it so soon? I assume your LS uses the Toyota type IV fluid? B) I'd consider using the Amsoil synthetic ATF when it does come time to change it......no worries as it is compatable with Toyota type IV fluid & will last much longer! B) Here is a link: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx ← I didn't ask them why. I assume that it is for preventative. That is why I check around the forum to see what all the owners are doing. I checked the manual and it uses ATF WS oil (world standard). My cousin has a jaguar and he said that the transmission is sealed so it doesn't need to be changed. But I the LS is not sealed but how often is the question. I want to be safe than sorry so 15,000 is reasonable. ← your cousin is wrong. his AT is not sealed. well it is, but only so it wont leak. the fluid will still burn. it has to be changed too.

I will gladly take a look in person. Give me a ring, 817-485-(REMOVE_ME_FIRST)3857. Im in Ft worth. but after 2:30 pm on saturday im free. ask for Josh. I will be happy to drive and meet you or simply come to your place of residence if you wish. im also free on sundays after 1:00PM and between 245pm and 5:pm im free weekdays. Email me at Lonely_alaskan@hotmail.com with the adress if you wish. im right in the neighborhood! :D if you dont knwo about him already, JP Imports is a FANTASTIC place to go. im actually driving one of his loaners right now. he is doing a major repair on my car, woudl have totalled over $3000 at the dealer, and he is doing it for just over $1,000. he gives you a free car to drive while he works on yours, the only thing he asks in return is that you fill up the tank, and he wont even ask that. he is 45 minutes from you in garland. i STRONGLY reccomend him for your repairs, he can do your timing belt and water pump in 1 day. and he can probably change out the struts for$200 in another half a day. i wouldnt put anything past this guy, he isLOC's own personal miracle worker :) . theres his phone # (on the banner) and his shop. http://www.jpimportz.org once again, my schedule is: M-Th: 245pm-500pm Fri: 245pm-whenever. Sat: whenever, but this weekend i have to work, so after 2:45pm Sun: After Church; so after 1:00pm. and if your wondering, im not a deranged lunatic or anything. just a friendly LOC member whose local and wishes to help. Blake918 or JPI, both have met me on more than one occasion. B)

did you keep the old one? may we see it? thast odd that it would crack when hit with something, it has a 600 lb engine pushing against it all the time... on second thought the LS4 may be setup differently from the ES as far as fucntuion of the cross member, on the ES there are engine mounts are attached to it.

the car is still waiting on a part, shes not back yet, probably gonna have jason do some more work with it. (on the phone with him as i type this) anyways, i went out there today to get the part for my core (the R&P) and the car felt much better (, also has new plugs and wires and an intake cleaning...(yay!) this is what came out of the car: i picked up the ball joints...and i was shocked! im amazed it still drove! the only thing now, is the power steering is leaking FASTER, because he had to put new ATF in the power steering. all the old fluid was factory fill and it had gunked up the lines and probably the pump too, so they didnt leak. right now jason is diagnosing that. EDIT: ..and it looks like ALL of the pressure lines AND the pump are leaking. so im not going any further into this car right now. im out of funds. i will post the reciept and recite work performed (the list was long) on tuesday.

whoo-hoo! old thread! LOL. its right there on the drivers side in a black box. what cant you get to? ona 430, it may be on the pass side.

I'd love to come out to Dallas, but I'm good friends with my guy in New Orleans-kinda obligated. If I can't get ahold of him though, I'm there. ;) ← cool, say the word and ill set you up man.

mine is leaking as well. maybe one of these days, ill replace it and do a how to.

as blake mentioned, your ball joints are shot. ← Thanks! I'll look into replacing the ball joints. However, I noticed that when I shake the tire the bushing at the top connecting the Upper Suspension Arm and the Arm that goes down to the brake/wheel housing wiggling free as well. What is that bushing called....any idea? ← upper control arm bushing...just a guess.

nonsense, i wil be putting well over 5K into my car, and its a 1990, by the time its all said and done, it just depends on how your priorities are, if u intend to keep the car for many years, go ahead and get it done, if its just serving as a "get you by" or if its just another car to you and you really dont care about it, dont fix it. the biggest PITA i see on there is the rear main seal leak...and you can find a shop to do this for around the area of $600... the valve covers are $400 and the timing belt./wp will add another $650 onto that...the camshaft and cranksjhaft seals are easily accesed when the timing belt is off for the TB/WP change so have them change those. i would gladly pay $2k to keep a lovely car on the road, so i can enjoy it all that much more. ESPECIALLY if thats all thats wrong with it.

mine was at 138,000 miles...and it was a mess to say the least. the camshaft and crankshaft seals are not something you whould attempt if you have to pay someone to do your timing belt change. while these are DOHC (Dual Over-Head Camshafts) Engines, and everything is right up on top, but that doesnt make it any easier. so my advice to you is if you have never changed a timing belt on an engine before (a V6 engine) then chances are you probably shouldnt attmpt camshaft and crankshaft seals. the timing belt has to come off, thus you will undo the timing, to get to these seals. and sepaking from eperiece there is nothing worse than picking up where someone else left off...LOL. if you have any doubts about how to do what you are about to attempt, DO NOT PICK UP A SINGLE WRENCH...until you have reseached it further, it could cost you more in the long run. ;)

if your car smells like rotten eggs, it may be too late. this is usually a sign of clogged catalytic coverter (s). however, this may not be the case, i cant tell you for sure without riding in the car. alot of times when people get the rotten egg smell, they take the car in for a tune up and all works fine afterwards. i would say spend the $100 on a tune up first.

I am considering it. Ever since the tickect, I feel like every policeman on the road is after me although I really think this ticket was a bit of bad luck since I've had them tinted like this since August of '04. I feel like some sort of wanted fugitive, and I really can't take it anymore; I spend too much time behind the wheel for this. Driving the LS4 used to be enjoyable, but now I'm severly paranoid. I'm going to call my tint guy today to see what it would cost to have the front windows redone so that it comes to 40% in the front instead of just telling him to put the 20% film on there like I did last time. Thanks for the compliments. She does photograph well, but the paint needs the attention of either a professional detailer or painter. If you'd see the tint in person, I think you'd like it. It doesn't look as ghetto(my brother says it looks like a mafia car because of the black car and dark tint! lol Hmmm...I could be Tony Soprano; I've got the right build, but I would never drive a crummy Suburban. lmao) as it does in that picture when the car is dirty and the weather is overcast. The trooper had nothing to worry about when he pulled me; I had the window down the second I saw the blue strobe lights to try and avoid this situation. :chairshot: That's a cool idea about the tint! The tint on my car doesn't affect my day/night driving at all(my eyes aren't the greatest either), but it'd be cool if it could lower to 0% when parked to really protect the interior. When I had my windows done and I went back to pick-up my car, I watched the guy put some tint on a new E500. He put the film on there, and then, melted it together with a torch. It was interesting; I neverr knew how it was done. He said that job was about $700 because it was some kind of special film. ← blake, if you want it redone, and are willing to make the drive, come out here to my guy. 30% is darker than 40%, but not dark enough that a cop would notice it. and if one ever asks, it was tinted in TX. B)

if you leave it, tehre si a good chance your driveshaft may fall out, if i am reading this thread cirrectly. have you checked transmission mounts?

*cough* YUGO *cough*

i was talking about my cyrslers engine LOL and i never knew that..well, learn something new every day LOL.

not reccomended at all even on a tranny with only 30K flushes are not good for the tranny acording to jason at JP Imports. on your car, i would do like i did, change the trenany fluid many times over an interval of 10,000 miles, i have done mine 4 times over 6,000 miles. fluid is returning to red (Still a maroon color) and tanny is performing well. if you decide against my advice and flush anyways, you WILL have trnany problems in less than 2,000 miles. i gauruntee it.

thats way too aggressive for me..........i use the dremmel on a lot of things, and i love it.......but i keep it far away from the paint on my car (especailly outside paint,, it can be just way to aggressive and way too easy to mess up with it...... one slip with that thing and can you can burn right throught the pain, no matter what speed you have it on. dremmels are awesome for alot of things, i use it all the time on various difffernt applications, but man i just woudn't touch my paint with it personally. but yeah i'm sure it works great if you can be carefull with it (souns like it works great for you army)....but i would just rather take the time to do it by hand, to insure you get it worked out perfectly. especially if you are a novice the ole dremmel works great to buff out old yellow headlights and exhaust tips as well...... ← yeah, i gues i forget sometimes that not alot of people have the patience that i do when it comes to cars... keep in mind wilfred, that IF you do the dremel thing, BE VERY CARFUL. it takes a steady hand (do not do it udner the influence of alchohol or cafffiene LOL) and a LOT of patience. i knwo a good body guy erein FT worth, you could probably have your carpainted for under $1,000 with lexus materials, unfortunately you are about 15m000 miles away, otherwise i woudl gladly help. BTW, you will have to excuse my typing, i have been drinking a lil, (car is put away for the night no worries there) and may notbe typing the best.