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nathanOJ

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Everything posted by nathanOJ

  1. Short update: It's out of storage as of April 2018 for any prospective buyers to test drive. Will post on local craigslist in the next few weeks.
  2. Thanks guys! I got it posted. It is the SC from that post.
  3. Selling a mint condition 2004 SC430 red convertible. Has a low 14,500 miles with an excellent service history. Bone stock, no modifications to the vehicle whatsoever. Great sounding v8 has a low throaty rumble than the quiet LS430’s. Car comes with some extras for storage in the winter months. Very clean car inside and out. Engine bay and undercarriage has absolutely no rust or corrosion. Both owners of this car took great care of it, not driving it in rain or salty roads. Everything on the car works as the first day it was sold. Maintenance has been well cared for as all oil changes were done well under 3000 miles with Mobil1 full synthetic. The timing belt is the exception as the car was not driven hard and stored in climate controlled garages. Has a clean CARFAX record. Exterior: Original paint with little to no swirls. Has not been polished, only washed and waxed by hand. No parking dings/dents have occurred. Headlights and tail lights are not fogged and do not have condensation. Windshield and side mirrors has no pits from road debris. Interior: Very supple leather, no scratches or frayed stitching, very soft. Steering wheel does not show any sign of wear or dents in the wood. Comes with aftermarket rubber floor mats for easy cleaning. Service History... 1st Owner: Recommended service history performed by Lexus of Mishawaka, logs are on lexus website. 2nd Owner: Recommended service history performed by owner every 3000 miles using Mobil1 Full Synthetic. Brake fluid was also changed. New battery was put in early August 2017. Purchased lightly used Bridgestone Continentals (dated 1212). A little bit about the owners... 1st Owner: A doctor from Warsaw, IN bought this car from Lexus of Mishawaka in 2004. Kept the car in climate controlled storage with a car jacket and taken out only during the summers. Never drove it in the rain or snow. Never took it out until May or June when the roads were clear of salt. 2nd Owner: An engineer from Granger, IN took possession on June 2015. A well known lexus enthusiast on the lexusownersclub forum unfortunately passed away. He babied it and continued to keep it well kept in a garage, sealed in a full car jacket with desiccant packs. It has been taken out only in summer months around May to October. Never taken out in rain or snow. Some extras to go along with… Bridgestone Potenza Run Flats - 4 set with factory Lexus SC430 rims, tread is worn, some light curb damage to rims Front Rubber Floor Mats Wheel Lock Key Kobalt Electric Air Pump- Does not come with a spare tire Fully enclosed Car Jacket- S3-1819 with desiccant packs KBB values it at $20,500 but does not take into account of its storage history and extras. Asking $23,000. Prefer buyer in person with cashier’s check or bank transfer. Able to negotiate on price. Buyer needs to arrange pick up before October otherwise it will stay in winter storage until May of 2018.
  4. Well you can probably guess by my username but I'm the son of Landar. Unfortunately Landar lost a long battle with lung and brain cancer for over a year. I need to get his Lexus sold quick before I need to put it in storage for 9 months.
  5. As a lurker, I understand the meaning of the rules for the buy/sell section. I need to sell a car ASAP and I don't want to create garbage posts (such as this one) to get it on there. A certain member of this forum has given a lot to this community, unfortunately passed away and I feel it would be in his best interest to give back to this community one last time. If not it will go on craigslist.
  6. Drivers door handle has an additional switch on it to turn on the keyhole light. Basically, in the dark, your supposed to pull on the door handle, it lights the keyhole, now you can see in the dark to where put your key without scratching the paint. Then theres an LED or light attached to the cylinder lock with 2 wires on the side to light the key hole. Then there are the three wires on the very back of the cylinder that is used for the cylinder positioning. If the latter is broken off, you'll set the alarm off by unlocking only the driver door manually. And you can't unlock/lock all doors with it. Using the remote key will be no problem. But anyways, I had almost a week of opening my driver side door with no alarm!! YAY!
  7. Drivers door handle has an additional switch on it to turn on the keyhole light. Basically, in the dark, your supposed to pull on the door handle, it lights the keyhole, now you can see in the dark to where put your key without scratching the paint. Then theres an LED or light attached to the cylinder lock with 2 wires on the side to light the key hole. Then there are the three wires on the very back of the cylinder that is used for the cylinder positioning. If the latter is broken off, you'll set the alarm off by unlocking only the driver door manually. And you can't unlock/lock all doors with it. Using the remote key will be no problem. But anyways, I had almost a week of opening my driver side door with no alarm!! YAY!
  8. Well today I took off the door panel to get to the cylinder switch. Here are some photos to show what I mean. I cleaned up the contacts inside but there was some corrosion that I couldn't get off with some penetrating oil. The black stuff in the photos is completely gone, and I reflowed the solder to the traces in case there was a cold solder joint in there (yes, I may be crazy but I don't want to keep taking off the panel again). I slightly bent the rotating contact piece so there was more force on the contact points. The locks seem to respond when I got everything back together. I tried a couple times of unlocking the car after it armed. Alarm didn't trip yet. :) Time will tell if that was the fix. Just be careful when removing the switch, very brittle. I have not broken it, but the door I replaced last month broke when I was swapping cylinders. Glad I had an extra :)
  9. Correction: When I said "position switch" or "position sensor" for the actuator I meant limit switch or limit sensor. For the cylinder sensor, it's just a switch. I still have the salvaged cylinder switch. It can be easily removed off the cylinder lock. It connects to the cylinder via a plastic flat head type connection. Then it has contacts VISIBLE for moisture to corrode. :/
  10. I have a pearl white 92 LS400 that has been good to me for 6 years so far. I do not use the wireless remote key to get into it, so that means using the drivers door lock a couple times a day since this is my daily driver. The problem I have is the alarm going off when unlock the door. This means sticking the key in, turning to the right, then BEEEPP! BEEEP! BEEEP!! DAMN IT!! What is weird is that the alarm goes off sometimes, not EVERY TIME. Sometimes the door lock actuator tries to "fight" my hand turning the key. So I took the interior panel off the door and pulled out the locking mechanism with the lock actuator in it, cause that's where most of the problems are with these LS's, right? I cleaned the lock actuator motor and that was a tremendous improvement, I tried cleaning the "contacts" where the actuator keeps it's positioning. I have replaced the "courtesy" switch as well but to this day it still goes off. WTH? What is tripping this Lex to freak out?!? That was my thought until I got in a minor accident... I had to change out the passanger door with all the locks and such with a salavaged door. I found my clue as to what might be wrong here. There is a switch on the cylinder lock by the handle that tells the car whether to lock or unlock the car. That's the end of the confusion. That has to be it. I'm guessing that lock sends the unlock message to the computer before the actuator knows what's going on. If that message doesn't get sent, the alarm thinks the door is getting jimmied open and throws a tantrum. There is a position sensor on the cylinder AND the actuator assembly; the cylinder HAS to send a signal before the locking actuator, otherwise it will freak out. This is my hypothesis. Has someone else complained of this problem? Is this it? I don't want to throw parts at it and waste my time. Thanks.
  11. Heater blower increase in motion is normal, it's a way of Lexus to quite things down at rest, same with the wipers. I think I had a very similar problem before. Wasn't serious enough to stall the engine or had to put it in neutral. I would get "hiccups" from the engine. It only happened when cruising (maintaining speed with no acceleration or foot off pedal) around 30-45mph. It was subtle and erratic and bothered the heck out of me. Engine was strong with acceleration and fluids in transmission and differential were checked. However, I decided to check my spark plugs, perhaps there was a cylinder not firing right. When I pulled the plug, it had those Bosch 4 electrode plugs! I had a suspicion that with those gimmicky plugs, the coil voltage is not reliably arcing. I replaced them with the OEM NGK single electrode iridiums and the "hiccups" went away! If I were you, check spark plugs, plug wires and distributer rotors, or at least the service history. Rotors are only good for so many miles. Perhaps an ignition tune-up should be in order soon?
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