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RA40

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  • First Name
    Mike

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  • Lexus Model
    '97 LS400
  • Lexus Year
    1997
  • Location
    California (CA)

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  1. A car with this many miles those are good parts to replace and be confident about. When symptoms persist inspite of known fixes, have you done the ripple test to verify the ECU operation? Have you had it smogged since then...what results?
  2. Happy to be here. :) Billy, after all those LS's only one? :o ;) You've had some very nice cars to drive and I can understand the change. The next owner will be pleased with all your care into it.
  3. Ahh...like happy endings and seeing these cars in nice shape. :) Can be pretty challenging when the paint isn't well cared for and the fresh side is all nice and shiny and other parts like bumper or roof are dulled.
  4. As egas and Billy stated. The DIY 2 qt incremental drain is a common means to gradually exchange the old fluid out and with very good success rates. In worst cases, dropping the pan and cleaning the shift solenoids. If the car is still shifting the fluid exchange usually takes care of it. The fresh fluid has detergents that clean so if the fluid is more on the blackish side, the 2 quarts gradually introduces itself. A full fluid exchange is fine on trannies that have received regular fluid changes as the accumulation of particulates and residues are far lower than a neglected tranny. For DIY, Type IV from the Toyota dealer is sub $5 but may be as high as $7. Also get the metal crush washer, these are single use only and cost about $1 but I've seen them as high as $3.50. What comes out goes back in so measure carefully. The tranny performs nicer with the fluid at proper levels. To much or to little can have shifting issues but are easily remedied.
  5. A dead alternator typically will show as a <check engine> <parking brake> <battery symbol> on the warning lights. Sounds like a dead battery. Remove it and have a local auto parts shop like Kragen so they can test it. Within a few minutes you'll have an answer. Could be a drain from one of the many accessories.
  6. Dunno if it is the same mechanism...on mine, it was due to a worn keycylinder contact. It read the key in an open/closed position and would actuate the lock accordingly in multiples. It would also lower the window. (The UCF 20 has this feature in the driver door key cylinder.) Once it was fixed, no problem...but it was an expensive repair at just under $500. :(
  7. Energy Suspension offers bushings also. You'll just have to take your bar diameter and order the generic kit with grease fitting. With a few slight mods to the brackets, it bolts right up. I haven't doen this but several I have come across have.
  8. Howdy, first post here... No need to go wayyy over there for a STB. You can use the bar from the 92-97 TT Supra. You just have to bend it a bit and this is what you get. Your favorite auction site will have these in bunches. I might add that while the bar will bend sufficiently, the bases on these economical units are far from precision and mine has .250" 6061 spacers on the risers. You can do it without.
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